The Swiss Cottage

Kamay Botany Bay National Park

2012-01-02T19:54:00.002+11:00

Kamay Botany Bay National Park is arguably home to one of modern Australia’s most sacred sites. Within the park’s boundary lies the landing place of Captain James Cook and the crew of the Endeavour. The exact location where they stepped ashore on Saturday, April 28, 1770 is marked by a stone obelisk. On its southern flank a bronze plaque records an extract from Cook’s journal entry;

"At Daybreak we discovered a bay and anchored under the South shore about two miles within the entrance in six fathom water, the South point bearing SE and the North Point East. Latitude 34°S Longitude 208°27’ W.”

The Endeavour’s arrival transformed the continent’s destiny.In particular, the testimony of two seasoned botanists, Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander, proved instrumental in encouraging British authorities to establish a penal colony in 1788. Over a period of eight days, Banks and Solander collected an unprecedented variety of specimens, many edible, while noting the presence of freshwater, a sheltered harbour and a favourable climate.

Garry and I decided to relive this history today by visiting the National Park today. The weather was picture perfect; clear and sunny with a pleasant breeze. We took several short walks to admire the view, read the many interpretive plaques and enjoy the sun’s warmth. A short walk from the Park’s Visitor’s Centre took us through a wooded picnic ground to the rocky coastline. It was fascinating to watch multicultural Australia at its best. Where else could you see old men fish while children play cricket and veiled women smoke shisha from a hookah pipe?

We soon discovered that Cook’s obelisk is just one of several memorials scattered along Botany Bay’s southern flank. Other notable memorials commemorate both Banks and Solander, while nearby, a low stone plinth rests on a tidal rock shelf. It commemorates Midshipman Isaac Smith, the first Englishman to stand on the Australian continent. Further along the coast a short flag pole marks the spot where Forby Sutherland was buried on May 2, 1770. He died of tuberculosis and thus became immortalized as Australia’s first European grave

We then drove along the coast to Yena Gap, opposite the entrance to Botany Bay. A short walk took us down to rocky ledges where foaming white waves were crashing ashore. The view was spectacular, first across the bay to the La Perouse headland and then out across the blue expanse of the Tasman Sea. So often I’ve flown over this area, either departing or landing at the airport, just a few miles away. No matter how many times I fly out, Sydney’s harsh, battered and rocky coast line is always a welcome sight on my return.

Our last stop for the day was Cape Solander where the park’s scenic road comes to an end. Here towering sandstone cliffs sweep down the coast for miles. Once again, the sensation of a brisk sea breeze proved both intoxicating and awe-inspiring as waves pounded the rocks below. Beautiful.

Farewell 2011

2011-12-31T23:27:00.009+11:00

Garry and I have celebrated the end of another remarkable year by joining hundreds of thousands, if not a million or more, people to watch Sydney's New Years Eve fireworks. We bought tickets to an evening of food and entertainment at the Opera Kitchen precident located in the shadows of Sydney's Opera House. Throughout the evening we enjoyed sushi, sashimi, gourmet burgers, roasted salmon and other delights as live music, interactive drumming, fire performances, body painting, roving stilt walkers and a six piece soul/jazz band filled the hours before midnight.

The first ten minute firework extravaganza began at 9.00pm and included displays from the Sydney's highest buildings, the harbour bridge and a chain of barges moored mid-harbour. A parade of lighted boats then proceeded to tour the harbour before everyone settled in for a 12-minute pyrotechnic display at midnight. It didn't take long to see why Sydney's celebration is the envy of the world. What a show it was! Fireworks began exploding from every direction, in all manner of colours, shapes and sizes, culminating in a display that saw the Harbour Bridge transformed into a waterfall of colour, as exploding stars and flares lit up the entire harbour.

I'll leave you with photos of the evening, including highlights from the A$6.5 million fireworks spectacular. You can also watch a video of the display here, which includes the official soundtrack broadcast on a local FM station, along with some dazzling aerial footage. Happy New Year everyone!

Wisemans Ferry

2011-12-28T22:29:00.006+11:00

Wisemans Ferry is possibly the best known ferry crossing on the Hawkesbury River, 75kms north of central Sydney. It’s a picturesque location, steeped in early-European convict history. A ferry service was established here in 1827 to transport provisions to convicts building the Great North Road between Sydney and the Newcastle region. For many years the route served as one of the main roads north out of the Sydney basin. Vehicles would travel north to the river, cross to the opposite bank then continue up the scenic, verdant MacDonald River valley. The route declined in popularity once Peats Ferry Bridge at Brooklyn opened in 1945.

We took advantage of today’s sunny weather by driving along the Hawkesbury River from Brooklyn, via Monsoon Creek, to Wisemans Ferry. Our leisurely circular route covered more than 250kms, taking in the traffic-choked Pacific Highway, the sweeping freeway curving through Kuring-gai Chase National Park and the winding, empty roads of the Northern Hawkesbury River.

We initially joined the aptly named Wisemans Ferry Road, 13kms north of Peats Ridge where a tranquil country lane follows meandering tributaries towards Monsoon Creek.The creek itself is a broad sweeping river that ultimately joins the Hawkesbury River near the small village of Spencer. It was here that we stopped for lunch, enjoying a classic Australian hamburger at the local country store. The store sits opposite a short, wooden plank jetty where we watched boats regularly coming and going, often stopping to collect their own dose fast food, or the odd case of beer.

The road then turned west and wound its way along the northern bank of the broad and somewhat majestic Hawkesbury. As we soaked in the tree-clad water views, birds could be heard calling over sound of the Saab’s purring engine. By accident we found ourselves driving up the MacDonald valley as far as St Albans.

This quaint rural settlement is best known for its nineteenth century pioneer pub, built from local sandstone. The impressive structure was originally built as a stopover for Cobb and Co. stagecoaches traveling between Sydney and Newcastle. Today it’s a popular watering hole for tourists who gather on picnic tables under the shade of towering eucalyptus gum trees. Several miles down river we stumbled across the town's original graveyard located on a quiet bend in the road.

We retraced our route back down the valley towards the Webb Creek ferry, where a five-minute crossing saw us deposited safely on the Hawkesbury’s southern bank. From here the road climbs abruptly to a scenic outlook over the river valley. We stopped briefly to admire the lush green scene before continuing back to Sydney and the bustle of urban life.

Our day finished on another high note when I received a response to an ad I'd placed online this morning. Last week we ended up with a spare ticket to the New Years Eve fireworks at the Opera House. Our English friend Martin had planned to fly in from London to join us until his mother was unexpected hospitalized. However, we've been able to off-load our spare ticket at roughly half its face value. This was my first attempt at online selling so it was a pleasant surprise to discover how swiftly and effortlessly the transaction occurred.

Galston Gorge

2011-12-27T18:11:00.001+11:00

The road through Galston Gorge is one of the most unusual roadways in the Sydney region. It takes cars from the wide streets of Hornsby down a narrow winding road punctuated by numerous tight hairpin turns deep into a narrow bush-clad gorge. At the base of the gorge an old one-way wooden bridge takes you across Tunks Creek, a tributary of Berowra Creek to a second concrete-arch bridge that crosses Berowra Creek itself. On a good day a journey through the gorge takes about 20 minutes.

The road’s bends are so tight and steep that the traffic over 7.5 metres in length is banned. However, at least three vehicles annually become stuck. So far this year, two such incidents have been reported. On February 8 the Gorge road was closed for more than four hours after a trailer carrying five horses became trapped. A month later a coach, well over the length restriction, also had to be rescued. Despite these hazards an average of 5,000 vehicles traverse the road each day.

I’m fascinated why a road through the middle of nowhere was ever constructed. The original wooden bridges were built in 1891, with the bridge crossing Tunks Creek still in use today. The bridges were built before the road was completed, by hauling each wooden beam through the bush with horse teams. The road itself was finally opened in 1893.

A little research reveals that the road was the championed by Matthew Charlton, a stone-cutter and boat-builder who lived on the banks of Berowra Creek. He was seeking a timelier route to the Hornsby railway station for his goods, as were a growing number of orchardists and farmers in the nearby Dural region. Prior to the opening of the road, most produce was transported to Sydney via Berowra Creek.

Water transport often began its journey from a tidal bay along the creek called Berowra Waters. A pioneering man by the name of Jack Smith established a boat shed here in 1898. The shed still stands today. In 1900, another road of tight hairpin turns was built down to boatshed from Berowra railway station. A hand-operated punt would then take vehicles across the water to a second road winding its way up an opposing valley to Galston.

A century later, the area’s commercial heritage has been superseded by more recreational pursuits. It’s now a popular boat launching spot, offering picturesque picnic locations and a popular fish cafe. However, the ferry service remains in operation, plying the creek 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

A picture perfect Christmas!

2011-12-25T22:54:00.000+11:00

Christmas Day began with clear blue skies, plenty of sunshine and not a breath of wind. Above is the view that greeted me at 7:30am as I rose to check the weather. What a perfect start to Christmas! Merry Christmas everyone!

Paid in full

2011-12-24T11:31:00.004+11:00

I am debt-free! This week I repaid the remaining balance on my share of our apartment’s mortgage. The final payment was made just a month shy of the loan’s eighth anniversary. I never imagined I’d ever be able to clear my share of the debt so swiftly. In a roller-coaster year of emotions, both high and low, reaching this milestone has been an uplifting way to end 2011.

Technically the bank still considers me indebted as Garry has yet to pay down his share of the mortgage. However, his outstanding balance represents barely 35% of the original amount we borrowed. Encouragingly, the continued rise in Sydney house prices means that this remaining debt is less than 25% of the apartment’s current value. As negative economic headlines continue to dominate the news it’s encouraging to know that our financial future is increasingly secure.

Bananas for everyone

2011-12-23T23:01:00.000+11:00

The Summer solstice has come and gone. The longest day of the year was marked by rain, and plenty of it. The regular bouts of wet weather have been a boon for our garden. Everything is looking lush, healthy and growing like crazy. I cannot recall a time when our balcony foliage looked better.

The wet weather has also had a surprising impact on the price of fresh fruit and vegetables. Prices for most produce is well below those reported for the same period last year. It seems that the cooler, damp conditions have reduced demand for many traditional Summer fruits and vegetables. As a result, supermarkets had been purchasing only half the quantity of product at the wholesale markets, leaving the rest to sell at heavily discounted prices. Bargains abound. For example, you can buy twice as many mangoes this year compared with last Summer.

The price of bananas has also plunged in recent weeks as new crops mature following the havoc wreaked by Cyclone Yasi in February. In the wake of this disaster, the price of bananas soared, peaking around $15.00 per kilo in June. This month prices have plunged below $2.00. Bananas are once again making a weekly appearance in our fridge.

Finally, as we finalise preparations for Christmas Day, the weather bureau has confirmed that weather on the day will be dry with regular bouts of sunshine.

English weather Down Under

2011-12-11T17:02:00.009+11:00

Tommorrow we celebrate the first anniversary of our departure from London. I cannot believe it's been a year already. I know everyone says that but honestly, it really does feel like only a few months have passed.

It seems Garry and I returned just as a La Nina weather cycle began sweeping across Australia. La Nina typically brings a greater chance of clouds, rain and humidity which has certainly been our experience. Since January we’ve seen Brisbane stuck by record floods and the nation's largest cyclone in memory strike Queensland. Meanwhile, Sydney has been regularly doust by rain and cooler than average temperatures.

Last week Sydney recorded its coldest start to Summer in half a century. For the first seven days of December temperatures struggled to rise above 20°C. December 7 proved the warmest day when temperatures peaked at 22°C. The city's long-term average maximum for this time of year is 25°C. It was 1960 the last time Sydney was this cold. It's hard not to compare this experience with London which recently enjoyed its warmest October on record.

UPDATE: December 23, 2011
The wet start to Summer has had a noticable impact on one iconic measure of tlocal weather conditions. Today's news was filled with reports that water levels at Warragamba Dam, Sydney's primary water source, have exceeded 80 per cent for the first time since June 2002. Dam levels fell as low as 33 per cent as recently as February 2007. According to the Sydney Morning Herald, the last time dams in the Sydney region were technically full was 1998.

'Tis the season

2011-12-04T19:12:00.003+11:00

The festive season is upon us. Our Christmas tree went up today as we countdown the final three weeks to Christmas. Trimming the tree bought back plenty of memories. I discovered box after box of ornaments that I'd forgotten we'd bought while in the UK. The final results looks stunning.

We also have a friend visiting from London over the Christmas/New Year period. Martin's been asking to see the city's famous New Year's Eve fireworks up close and personal. It's been some time since we last witness the annual spectacle up close so we're keen to grant to his wish. However, almost a million people line the shores of the harbour every year making for an unpleasant crowd-crushing experience.

Photo © Ilya Genkin

As a result, Garry and I have spent a week searching the web for less gruelling options. The fireworks watching events on offer are impressive; from private yacht in the harbour, a gala dinner at the Opera House (only $900 a head), an outdoor picnic in the grounds of the Botanic Gardens (much cheaper at $325) and a ten-course degustation menu in a five-star hotel (an eye-watering $1,000 per person). After hours of searching we think we've found the perfect solution at a reasonable price.

With a little luck we'll be standing on the bridge-facing forecourt of the Opera House, with a spectacular ring-side view of the fireworks. I called the venue last night and was told they still had tickets available, at a reasonable price. Best of all, we'll have some shelter if the current bout of rain persists into the New Year. Stay tuned for some spectacular photos!

UPDATE: December 5
Hooray! Our tickets have been confirmed for the Opera House forecourt.

The Glacier Express

2011-12-03T17:50:00.000+11:00

The first anniversary of our departure from London is barely a week away. We cannot believe a year has passed. It feels like only yesterday that we were riding trains through the snow-clad Swiss Alps. As I look back through old blog posts I can see we never told you about our day trip on the stunning Glacier Express.

This is scenic tourist train that traverses the spine of Switzerland’s alpine region. It runs 291kms from the exclusive ski resort of St Moritz west towards Zermatt, nestled on the slopes of the Matterhorn. The route takes passengers through winding, picturesque river valleys, across plunging rocky gorges and over soaring, narrow mountain passes. The entire journey takes the better part of a day to complete.

Our itinerary didn’t allow for an end-to-end passage so we boarded the train at Chur, a town 65kms north of St Moritz, before leaving it at Brig, about 40km east of Zermatt. However, even this truncated four-hour route was worth every penny. The views were unbelievable and, as luck would have it, we travelled on a day filled with blue sky and sunshine for most our journey. In fact, the weather was nothing short of a miracle. At the time, Northern Europe was being smothered by the heaviest snowstorm in decades.

The train itself is designed to ensure the best possible view. Each carriage offer wide, panoramic windows that stretch the length of each carriage and up into the roof line. We booked seats that offered a hot lunch served in comfort at our table; a far cry from the arduous, bitterly cold trek endured by generations past. Our only tribulation was trying to take memorable photos without distracting glare and reflections.

From Chur we journeyed through the Rhine Gorge, where towering cliff faces follow the tracks for miles. The train then hooks on to a special cogwheel locomotive before making its way slowly up the Oberalppass. At 2033 metres, this is the highest point of the journey. Here the train glides past snow-capped mountains surrounded by undulating landscape of white in every direction. At times it was as if the train was travelling through the blank pages of an unfinished novel.

It then descends along a series of dramatic, twisting spirals and cliff-hugging ledges to the town of Andermatt, one the main north-south route across the Alps. The train then passes through the Furka Basis Tunnel for 15kms, a 20-minute journey in darkness before emerging in a completely different valley system; the Rhone, filled with tiny villages and rolling hills. Here the track also drops 150 metres down to the valley floor by lopping through a 270° spiral tunnel.

We left the train at Brig as our final destination was north to the city of Bern. However, we made the most of our Eurail ticket by catching the local train that deftly winds its way up the opposite side of the valley. Our train slowly wound its way ever higher through yet more stunning landscape and alpine vistas before plunging into the 14.5km long Lötschberg Tunnel. This was once the only way across the Alps in the immediate area until a new, even longer Lötschberg Base Tunnel was opened in 2007.

Garry and I were fascinated by the car shuttle service that takes accompanied vehicles through the tunnel. The main road literally ends in a rail siding where cars are driven onto open sided freight carriages and taken through the mountain. They then disembark 20 minutes later at the opposite end where the road begins again. At peak times, the car transport service operates every 7½ minutes in each direction. Gosh the Swiss are ingenious.

Bern and bears

2011-12-03T17:40:00.000+11:00

Almost a year ago we stopped overnight in the city of Bern, or Berne as it’s sometimes known. I last visited the city in 1990. I recalled being enthralled by the grandeur of its cobblestone streets and the covered stone arcades of its old town. Its earliest dwellings, built in 12th Century, have been carefully preserved. Their stone facades made for an impressive site as they gracefully wrap around the banks of the river Aare.

Today, Bern is the fourth most populous city in Switzerland, home to more than 125,000. It also serves as a defacto capital for the federal alpine nation. Its name is derived from the German word for bear. In keeping with these origins the city has maintained a drab bear pit by the river Aare since the 16th Century. When I lasted visited the town several bored animals were restlessly wandering through the stark enclosure.

I’m pleased to report that, two decades later, the bears have been relocated to a spacious new park on the sloping riverbank. When we visited, two families of healthy looking animals could be seen frolicking in the snow. The old bear pit is now abandoned.

Perhaps the most famous sight in Bern is the Zytglogge, or time bell, an elaborate medieval clock tower that displays a collection of moving puppets each time a new hour is struck. However, the most memorable sight during our visit was a display of Christmas candles that covered a plaza in front of imposing 15th Century town hall. It seems we timed our visit well as the display was gone the following morning.

An historic milestone approaches

2011-11-15T23:34:00.002+11:00

I've finally posted the last update on our recent US road trip. Click here to read more about Tombstone, Arizona; the town too tough to die. Our next overseas adventure has already been booked. We're off to Wellington, New Zealand for a long weekend at the end of January. Qantas launched a massive sale on flights last week in a bid to entice customers following months of industrial unrest. Garry and I decided that return flights to Wellington for less than A$330 was too tempting to ignore.

This will be Garry's first trip to New Zealand's capital city and my first return visit since the late 1980s. I was briefly in transit at the airport a few years ago enroute to Melbourne which really doesn't count. We're looking forward to seeing the new national museum on Wellington's waterfront and soaking up the city's cosmopolitan urban vibe. I'm curious to see what I remember, and just how much the city has changed.

Our visit will coincide with a unique personal milestone. At some point in January 2012 I'll have lived more of my life beyond New Zealand than within its borders. I left its shores for the last time as a permenant resident in February 1990. Since then I've roamed the global calling both Sydney and London home at one time or another. Ironically, I'll be travelling to Wellington on a new Australian passport. I submitted an application yesterday for my third such passport. How swiftly time flies.

More travel is also planned for next year. I'll be accompanying my parents on a trip to China in May, taking in the sights of Shanghai, Xian and Beijing. Then in June Garry and I will be heading to Port Douglas for a family wedding. However, this Christmas will be travel-free for the first time in six years. We're planning to stay put in Sydney and enjoy a series of day trips to the surrounding area. We're hoping to see Wiseman's Ferry, Berowa Waters, Brooklyn on the Hawkesbury River and other scenic spots in between seasonal festivities. Finally, we're hoping to spend a weekend in Canberra around Easter with my brother and sister-in-law who're planning a long weekend in Sydney.

Arizona remembered

2011-11-01T23:09:00.003+11:00

I've prepared a series of posts on our second week in Arizona in late-September. Click on the links below to learn more about:

The stunning sight of fossilized trees scattered across The Petrified Forest National Park and the Painted Desert.
A trip down memory lane as we visit Route 66 in Winslow and a spectacular hole in the ground called Meteor Crater.
Getting up close with a Titan II missile, a deadly Cold War relic south of Tucson.
The disappointment of Biosphere 2, a unique ecological experiment in the foothills north of Tucson.

Please check back again soon for additional posts. Highlights yet to come include:

The Pima Air and Space Museum, which included a fascinating bus tour of America's largest aircraft bone yard.
Tombstone, Arizona. The world's original wild west town, complete with dusty boardwalks and the odd random bullet hole.
The classic sights and sounds from Garry's first proper tour of Los Angeles.

Faster than the speed of sound

2011-10-25T02:35:00.001+11:00

The internet is a wonderful tool for pursuing one’s passions and interests, no matter how obscure or eclectic the subject matter. I vividly recall experiencing this capability for perhaps the first time in 1997. At the time ThrustSSC, a British built and funded venture, was attempting to break the land speed record. I logged on almost daily to follow its record breaking efforts at Black Rock Desert in Nevada, USA. The SSC suffix stands for Supersonic Car, as its designer, Richard Noble, had set his sights on creating the first land vehicle to break the sound barrier.

On October 14, 1997, the jet-powered vehicle set a new land speed record, averaging a speed of 1,228 km/h or 763 mph. It also became the first car to officially break the sound barrier, a feat that it ultimately repeated twice. The 16.5 metre long car certainly looked the part, powered by two massive jet engines that sat on either side of the driver’s cockpit. The entire assembly weighed in a hefty 10.5 tons.

It came as no surprise to learn that the car’s engines had come from a Royal Air Force F-4 Phantom jet fighter. It was also surprise that its driver, Andy Green, was also a former RAF pilot. Incredibly the entire venture was the dream, Richard Noble, who at the time was also the current land speed record holder. He’d set his own record in 1983 in a car he’d designed called Thrust 2. This earlier vehicle was powered by only one jet engine, but still was able to reach a bone-jarring speed of 1,019.468 km/h or 633.468 mph. That’s right, fourteen years on, ThrustSSC broke the land speed record by more than 200 km/h.

Today, both record-breaking vehicles are on display in the Coventry Transport Museum, located just over an hour north of London. The museum’s location reflects the fact that Coventry was once home to Britain’s car industry. At one time almost every British motoring brand including Jaguar, Mini and Leyland was based here. It was also home to Sir Frank Wittle, a British jet engine pioneer whose acheivement include the invention of the rotary engine. His statue stands gaxing skyward in the town centre. Sadly, most of Coventry's assembly plants have long since closed, making thousands unemployed over several decades. The city is still strugging to recover from the swift deapture of its primary industry.

Last Saturday, I made a spontaneous decision to catch a train to Coventry and see ThrustSSC and Thrust 2 for myself. The journey north was relatively straight forward. The express train from Euston Station made only one stop before arriving in Coventry. Stepping out of the station it was immediately clear that I’d left London far behind and was now in the nation’s industrial heartland. The inner city’s architecture was rather austere and just a little dilapidated. I later learnt that it was heavy bombed during the war and thus reflected the limitations of a struggling post-war economy.

In fact, in the centre of town lie the ruins of Coventry’s once magnificent cathedral. On the night of 14 November 1940, the city was devastated by bombs dropped by the Luftwaffe. The 14th Century Cathedral burned along with the city, having been hit by several incendiary devices. Today, only it stone walls and the restored bell tower remain standing. The ruins stretch 425 feet from end to end, while bell tower’s spire rises an impressive 294 feet into the air.

Despite, its destruction the site is still inspiring, if only because it offers a unique sense an average cathedral’s massive scale. The scale is typically is lost in a complete building because the interior is always interrupted by internal pillars and walls. At Coventry, these impediments are missing and thus the building entire surface area is clearly visible. With your line of sight uninterrupted it’s hard not to stand in awe of the medieval builders responsible for its design and construction.

Should I confess I was almost more impressed by the cathedral’s ruins than by finally seeing Thrust 2 and Thrust SSC?

The beauty of history

2011-10-19T09:10:00.004+11:00

I've just spent a memorable weekend exploring Ironbridge, arguably the home of the Industrial Revolution, and the picturesque Dee River valley in Northern Wales. Look for a couple of posts shortly. What's with the radio telescope you ask? That's the Lovell Telescope at the Jordell Bank Observatory, east of Liverpool. I noticed it was within an hour's drive of my weekend destination and so I made a detour to see it for myself

At the time of its completion in 1957, the current 76.2 metre dish was the world's largest steerable antenna. It was activated just weeks before the Soviet Union launched Sputnik, the world's first artificial satellite. This meant that it became of few instruments in the West able to accurately track the satellite's orbit around the earth using radar.

Llangollen

2011-10-19T08:51:00.001+11:00

Llangollen is another iconic place I’ve always wanted to visit. It’s a small, picturesque village in Northern Wales, located just a few miles from the English border. My initial interest was provoked by images of the stunning Pontcysyllte Aqueduct built a few miles from town. This impressive structure is a slender cast iron tough that carries the Llangollen Canal across the Dee River valley. The aqueduct is 316 metres long, rising almost 39 metres above the surrounding valley.

It was built by the great civil engineer, Thomas Telford, in 1805. Telford was also responsible for construction of the Llangollen canal, built to feed water from the River Dee to the Shropshire Union Canal. If that wasn’t enough, Telford also modernised the ancient road from London to Hollyhead in Northeast Wales that passes through Llangollen, known today as the A5 highway.

For many reasons Garry and I never quite made it to Llangollen while we were living in the UK. As a result, since returning to Australia I’ve made it a personal ambition to actually get there. Last weekend, this goal was finally achieved when I rented a car and drove north while in London for business. I’m glad I made the effort. Llangollen turned out to be one of the prettiest, most memorable locations I’ve ever visited in the UK. Much of the original village has been carefully preserved, sitting on the banks of a truly picturesque river, each half linked by an equally impressive stone arch bridge.

Aside from the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, Llangollen is also famous for its lovingly restored steam railway that runs through the Dee Valley. The original rail track arrived in the town in 1862 and operated until 1968. Since its closure more than seven miles of track between Llangollen and the nearby village of Carrog have been carefully restored by a volunteer society of rail enthusiasts. The society runs steam train rides several times. On Sunday I caught the first train of the day to Carrog and back.

It was a wonderful adventure. A large crowd gathered on the restored Victorian rail platform to watch the train pull up in a cloud of steam and smoke. Once the engine was coupled to a set of restored carriages we slowly departed to the rhythmic sounds of a chugging engine and clattering wheels. The river valley was picture perfect. Sheep scattered as we passed and I felt a sense of history in my hair as I hung out of the window watching the train round each bend.

Upon returning to Llangollen I wandered along the town’s riverwalk and through its narrow, winding streets. Mid-afternoon I joined a tour that drove a small of us to the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct where we boarded canal boat, crossed the aqueduct and then along the Llangollen canal back to town. The tour took roughly two hours, passing through yet more postcard perfect scenery. The view is made all the more memorable by the canal’s unusual location, sitting high up on the side of the valley.

If that wasn’t enough, even my hotel room offered an unusual treat. I stayed at the Hand Hotel. It was originally a 17th Century coaching inn that backed on to the grounds of the Church of St Collen. Collen is popular Welsh saint who reputed retired to Llangollen after murdering a local man-eating giantess. My room was on second floor, with a window that offered a classic view of the church itself. Llangollen’s name is derived from this church. In Welsh Llan means enclosure and thus the town’s name literally translates as Collen’s enclosure. The current stone building was begun in the 13th Century, but later remodelled in 1864-67.

Even better, over breakfast, my table offered a scenic view across the Dee River valley to an isolated hill overlooking the town. On the hill’s crest the ruins of Castell Dinas Bram, a castle built in 1260, are clearly visible. I’d encourage anyone to visit Llangollen if they get the chance. You won’t be disappointed.

Birthplace of the Industrial Revolution

2011-10-19T08:15:00.037+11:00

More than thirty years ago I completed a school project on bridges. I recall being fascinated by the different construction methods used to span all manner of obstacles. I think this was moment that my love for civil engineering was born. Today, I’m still fascinated by these remarkable feats of engineering; as more than one post in this blog will testify. Over the years, one bridge in particular has always captured my imagination; the Iron Bridge spanning the River Severn near Telford, England. Eveb the village it links is fondly called Ironbridge. Last weekend, while based in London for work, I hired a car and drove north to finally see the bridge for myself.

This structure is the world’s first cast iron bridge; possibly the world’s first large scale bridge span built entirely from metal. Upon completion in 1779 it heralded the arrival of an entirely new, significantly stronger, building material; one the ultimately built the modern age. Previously, only wood and stone had been available for large-scale construction. Within decades, other pioneering iron milestones including steamships, skyscrapers and large-scale industrial factories were emerging across the industrialised world.

All these milestones can be traced directly back to the actions of one man, Abraham Darby. In 1709 he first smelted iron using coke instead of wood-based charcoal. Coke, prepared from coal, was more plentiful than wood, thus enabling iron to be manufactured cheaply, in unprecedented volume. He lived in Coalbrookdale, a village located in valley less than a mile from the site of the Iron Bridge. The company he founded later went on to smelt iron for the first Iron Bridge, then built first steam locomotive for Richard Trevithick in 1803.

Darby’s original iron furnace has been carefully preserved as part of the town’s fascinating Museum of Iron. The brick structure is largely intact despite centuries of weathering and neglect. Today, its crumbling remains are protected by a stunning triangular glass atrium. Exploring this structure was a surreal experience. As I looked into its bulbous interior I struggled to comprehend that one of the Industrial Revolution’s defining moments happened right here.

I feel a similar sense of awe and pioneering majesty standing under the iron lattice of the Iron Bridge. It’s a remarkably elegant and graceful structure as its design and construction was based on established carpentry techniques. This meant that each member of its frame was cast separately, and fastened using mortise and tenon, and dovetail joints. The bridge comprises more than 800 iron castings of 12 basic types, many of which were carefully customised to fit the final structure.

Its main arch span stretches 30.5 metres across the River Severn. At its highest point, the span provides 18 metres of clearance below. Smaller stone arches link the main span to the opposing river banks. When first completed, a toll was charged for its use. The original toll house still stands today on the edge of its southern approach. Vehicular traffic was barred from bridge in 1934, but it remains in use for pedestrians. Interestingly, a toll was still charged for pedestrians up until 1950. Today, you can cross the bridge for free, as well as wander scenic paths laid alongside and underneath it span.

Rena hits home

2011-10-17T10:25:00.008+11:00

It’s been heart-breaking in recent days to watch an environment disaster unfolding along the coast of Mount Manguanui in New Zealand. The beachside city where my parents live has seen its pristine white sand beaches fouled by oil and debris from Rena, a container ship, that ran around on Astrolabe reef. The reef, roughly 20 kms offshore, was first marked on maps by early European explorers more than three hundred years ago, so its location is well known. Naturally questions are being raised as to how a modern ship ran into such a outcrop, at 17 knots , in broad daylight on a relatively calm sea.

Within days of running aground rough seas hit the region, stressing the vessel to the point that frightening large cracks have appeared along its midsection. The swell also left it leaning at a precarious angle, resulting in the loss of 88 containers so far, 30 of which are currently unaccounted for. This tally is expected to rise as more foul weather descends on the area.

For days now I’ve watched photo after photo published of a beach littered with cargo from burst containers (which include frozen meat patties and animal skins). Most distressing is the realisation that these images were shot from the beach metres from my parent’s home. This is the same beach that Garry and I were frolicking on as recently as January this year. Regular readers may recall we made good use of our jetlag one morning to venture down to the shore to watch the sun rise.

The opening image on this post was captured by Katie Cox earlier this week and published by the New Zealand Herald. The other images are also taken from the Herald's files. It's grim stuff.

Hooray for Hollywood

2011-10-03T22:46:00.028+11:00

We finished our Southwest USA road trip with a three-day stopover in Los Angeles. While I’ve stopped in LA many times over the years, this was Garry’s first proper visit. Of course it wouldn’t be a California vacation without a hire car to get around. To make things as authentic as possible I splashed out and booked a convertible. However, we saved a fortune on our hotel by cashing in some credit card loyalty points. It ultimately cost us US$30/day and was located next to a large Westfield shopping mall. This pleased Garry no end as he was keen to make the most of end-of-Summer clothing sales.

Our first evening in LA was taken up by a visit to a local coin-operated launderette. After two weeks on the road we were both running short of clean clothes. It made for a novel evening as we hung out with dozens of the other people doing their laundry. At times it felt like a scene from a movie which was rather apt considering Hollywood was a few short miles away.

The following morning we drove down the freeway and through palm fringed streets to the La Brea tar pits. I’d visited the area back in December 2009. However this time the water table was much lower making the naturally seeping tar and petro-chemical fumes far more prominent. I was also delighted to find the main fossil excavation pit open for viewing. It’s fascinating to peer into the excavated pit’s gloomy depth and spot fossils still sitting in the black ooze.

Our next step was Hollywood Boulevard. This allowed us to see the famous Hollywood sign, admire memorial stars embedded on the sidewalk and go searching for the footprints of famous actors outside Grumman’s Chinese Theatre. The recognizable names are everywhere from Frank Sinatra to the Marilyn Munro. Even Kermit the Frog has his own memorial star.

Our second full day in town was devoted to shopping. I took Garry to the best shopping mall in town, the Beverly Centre, where we both shopped until our arms groaned under the weight. Our final day in town was then spent visiting Santa Monica beach to see its famous amusement pier, stand at the west terminus of Route 66 (you may recall we visited a popular section of the highway in Winslow, Arizona) and enjoy a leisurely lunch in the sun.

All too soon it was time to tackle the rush hour traffic, collect our luggage and make our way to the airport. Garry ensured our vacation ended on a high note by securing an points upgrade to First Class on Qantas’ uber-comfortable Airbus A380. Hooray for Hollywood.

Gunfight at the OK Corral

2011-10-01T22:51:00.001+10:00

Tombstone, Arizona; they call it “the town too tough to die”. It’s also one of the best preserved towns in the midst of what once was the American Wild West. The town’s original 1880’s buildings have been lovingly maintained. The result is a streetscape that wouldn’t be out of place in a classic Western movie. The main street is lined by a shaded boardwalk protecting the entrance to saloons, brothels and stores. However, unlike a Disney stage-prop set, the buildings aren’t quite as spotless and exhibits are often worn and dusty.

Tombstone is also home to the OK Corral, the site of an infamous gunfight long since immortalized in more than one movie. On October 26, 1881, in a six-metre wide lot behind the Corral three cowboys faced down four rival townsmen. In less than a minute, 30 shots were fired, leaving three cowboys dead and two other seriously wounded.

Today, visitors can watch an amusing reenactment of the gunfight twice a day, staged in a simple amphitheatre alongside the original Corral. Alternatively, you can push a button at the actual gunfight site and watch some clumsy animatron robots crudely reenact the fatal scene. It’s probably the only truly chintzy tourist gimmick in town.

We spent 1.5 days exploring the township, learning all there was to know about the gunfight and host of other excentric characters that gave the town its enduring reputation. Highlights included the Bird Cage Theatre where an elevated row of opera boxes along its opposing walls were used by prostitutes to ply their trade rather than well-heeled theatre-goers. In fact, we discovered that many of the well-heeled local were the prostitutes. It seems that the wives of many prominent locals, including the sheriff, were prostitutes at one time or another.

Several horse-driven stagecoach tours also operate around the town. They’re undoubtedly a bit of a gimmick as a horse cannot travel far in 15 minutes at a leisurely pace. However, this does give the drive plenty of time to share all manner of amusing anecdotes about the town and its history. The odd stray bullet hole was also pointed out along the way.

I was fascinated to learn that that much of Tombstone’s colourful history took place over a surprisingly brief period. The town was founded in 1879; near a recently discovered silver mine. This made it one of the West’s last frontier towns. Within a year the town was the fastest growing city between St Louis and San Francisco. In fact, its population grew from less than 100 people to more than 14,000 in less than seven years.

The mines struck water in the 1880s and were kept open by a pump operating 24-hours a day. In 1886 the main pump house caught fire, seriously damaging its pump. The mines flooded and the cost of repair was deemed excessive. Mining in the area rapidly declined and the town began to falter. By 1990, less than 700 people remained. However, savvy locals turned to tourism in a bid to save the town. Today, Tombstone attracts almost half a million visitors annually.

Cactus Forest

2011-09-30T02:02:00.000+10:00

Garry and I have left Tucson enroute to Tombstone, Arizona; the original Wild West town. I'll write more shortly. For now, here are a few photos from the Sarganro National Park where giant catcus grow in a forest-like formation.

Where do planes go to die?

2011-09-28T14:12:00.049+10:00

If you’re a US military aircraft there’s only one place you’ll end up at the end of your flying days; the 309th Aerospace Maintenance and Regeneration Center (AMARG) at Davis-Monthan Air Force Base in Tucson, Arizona. This site, also known affectionately as the “boneyard” is the official storage depot for all surplus, retired or decommissioned aircraft. It’s currently home to 4,400 aircraft and 13 aerospace vehicles from the Air Force, Navy-Marine Corps, Army, Coast Guard, and several federal agencies including NASA. As you can imagine, with so many aircraft in storage the site covers a huge area. Unsurprisingly, its presence makes Tucson a high-priority military target for nuclear-armed ballistic missiles.

Garry and I we lucky enough to join a guided bus tour of the boneyard, arranged by the nearby Pima Air and Space Museum. It’s an amazing sight! The might and power of the US military becomes all too apparent as the bus tour unfolds. The array of equipment is truly mind-boggling. There are acres devoted to storing jet engines, wing tip extensions and all manner of accessories. You then come across hundreds of neatly parked jet fighters, helicopters and giant high-speed B1-B bombers, all stretching as far as the eye can see.

The entire scene is made even more surreal thanks to the preservation method used on site. Despite the areas’s protective dry desert environment, every aircraft is carefully preserved by wrapping it in a special white plastic clip film. The result is row after row of ghostly white objects of all shapes and sizes. The weather also played along by adding it own dramatic flair which included a sudden burst of torrential rain, lightening and thunder.

Pima Air and Space Museum was an equally impressive attraction. The site covers a huge area upon which is stored an incredible variety of aircraft. Highlights include several lovingly restored Super Constellation aircraft. These were the workhorse of the long-haul commercial aviation industry prior to the start of the modern jet age. I’ve always wanted to see one for myself. I was thrilled to discover that the Museum has one painted in classic TWA colours. It was like an old grainy photo from the 50s come to life.

Inside the museum’s numerous hangers we saw the world’s smallest plane and the smallest jet plane (which was only slightly larger); both of which looked like large toys. However, the Guinness Book of Records has verified that they really did take to the air. Elsewhere we came across a World War II plane flown by Lt. Louis E. Curdes, the only pilot to be awarded a Distinguished Flying Cross medal for shooting down a friendly plane.

Apparently, the wayward American aircraft was preparing to land on a runway that had been recaptured by enemy forces. The quick thinking pilot tried to warn off the pilot to no avail. In the end he carefully shot the plane’s engines forcing it to ditch miles short of the airport. The plane landed close to another friendly aircraft pilot who was also preparing to be rescued.

All in all we spent half a day wandering among literally hundreds of planes, many of which were one-off test craft, others which held a unique place in aviation history. For example, we saw a plane that was used by President Kennedy and President Johnson as the last propeller-driven Air Force One. Was this the aircraft that carried Kennedy's body back from Dallas? Nearby was NASA’s aptly named Super Guppy cargo plane. It looks much like a giant tadpole with wings. It was used to transport segments of the Saturn V moon rocket and more recently segments of the International Space Station. I was also thrilled to see my first Sikorsky S-64 sky crane helicopter. There are incredibly powerful, heavy-lift helicopters that look much like a praying mantis.

Finally, being the true space geek that I am I was thrilled to see the B-52 bomber that had been specially modified to carry the X-15 rocket plane aloft. The X-15 was the first such craft to fly to the edges of space and return to earth as a regular plane. This twin vehicle concept has since been adapted by Virgin Galactic as it prepared to launch its first commercial sub-orbital spaceflights. Needless to say I went back to our hotel a happy lad, while was probably relieved to be doing something different!

Biosphere 2

2011-09-27T22:26:00.017+10:00

I can honestly say that only two venues on our entire Southwest road tour failed to live up to expectations. One of these was Biosphere 2. It’s a 3.14-acre (12,700 m2)[1] series of airtight structures built to test the concept of creating and maintaining a self-contained ecological system. Five buildings housed a series of artificially recreated environments ranging from a coral sea to desert terrain and jungle foliage.

The structure was notable for its innovative solution for coping with atmospheric expansion. During the day, heat from the sun caused the interior’s air to expand, while cooler night time temperatures caused it to contract. Building a sealed structure able to cope with these daily forces would have been prohibitively expensive. To solve the problem, large inflatable diaphragms in domes were used to store expanding gases that passed along two large passages between the domes and the main structure.

Over the course of three years, two teams entered the complex where they were sealed off from the external environment. Each team set out to demonstrate that it was possible to create enough oxygen and food within an artificial environment to sustain life indefinitely. The first mission lasted two years; from September 26, 1991 to September 26, 1993. Eight crew members participated.

A second mission followed on March 6, 1994, with an announced run of ten months but was terminated early after a series of nasty disputes, including a protest by participants from the first mission that climaxed in an act of vandalism. Since then the site has been used for experiments on a range of ecological questions including climate change and the natural water cycle.

The first mission generated mixed results. The agricultural system produced 83% of the mission’s total diet. This included a wide variety of crops such as bananas, papayas, sweet potatoes, beets, peanuts, lablab and cowpea beans, rice, and wheat. No toxic chemicals were used since they would quickly impact health. During the first year inside the eight inhabitants reported constant hunger. During the second year, applying lessons they’d learnt the crew produced an additional ton of food. Their average caloric intake increased and they regained some of the weight lost during the first year.

Of course, each experiment included moments of drama and many fascinating insights into the complexity of our planet’s ecosystems. Unfortunately, few of these insights were shared during one of the guided tours you take through the complex. Even more disappointing, the interior is currently in the midst of a drought experiment which has made much of its vegetation increasingly scrappy. Furthermore, many of the plants are now two decades old and thus showing their age.

The overall impression was rather shabby and our tour guide seemed far too keen to justify the complex’s current reason for being. Our tour’s only highlight was the discovery that fish in the artificial ocean are descendents of the site’s original population. They’ve never been fed or cared for and thus represents compelling proof that it is possible to create a sustainable, artificial ecosystem.

Cold War: up close and personal

2011-09-25T20:52:00.004+10:00

Throughout the Cold War the Titan II, a large liquid fueled ballistic missile, stood on constant vigil. Its nine-megaton nuclear warhead made it the most powerful ICBM ever put into active service. Today’s warheads operate with less than a tenth of the Titan’s explosive power. Putting such a large, heavy warhead into flight required a imposing, 31-metre tall two-stage rocket. A rocket so powerful it was used for several years by NASA to launch its two-man Gemini space capsule.

The entire missile system’s massive scale reflected limitations of missile technology at the time of its activation in 1963. warhead’s deadly size reflects the limitations of its inertial guidance unit At the time of its activation in 1963,. While cutting-edge technology at the time of its activation in 1963, at best the unit could guide a missile within one kilometre of its intended target. As a result, the warhead had to be destructive enough to destroy anything within a 1500 radius.

The Titan 2 remains on active duty until 1987. It was eventually retired as the cost of maintaining 63 missiles in four locations across the USA had become increasingly prohibitive. The missiles that ultimately replaced it use solid rocket technology, which is much easier to maintain. The Titan II used two highly toxic fuels, Aeroxine 50 and dinitrogen tetroxide, which could be stored on board the missile. However, their hypergolic nature (i.e. they ignite on contact, thus eliminating the need for a separate ignition source) made them incredibly dangerous to handle.

While in Tuscon, Arizona, Garry and I visited the Titan Missile Museum, for a five hour tour of this marvel of the Cold War. The missile sits in a deactivated silo, displayed in launch position, with much of the original infrastructure deactivated but still in place. We’d booked the tour six months earlier as they’re limited to six people and happen only once a month. I must admit we both wondered if it was possible to spend six hours in a missile silo without becoming bored senseless.

I can honestly report that the time simply flew by. Our guide, Chuck Penson, was incredibly informative. He regaled us with facts, anecdotes and specialist insights that kept us entertained for hours. I was fascinated to learn that the entire missile and its launch complex is actually suspended on giant springs inside the silo, as are most the supporting infrastructure. This assembly was designed to absorb the shock of an enemy missile exploding nearby, increasing its chances of survival and thus its ability to launch a punishing retaliatory strike.

Our tour took us into the underground command bunker where four men worked in rotating shifts around the clock. We sat at their launch console and were taken through the entire launch sequence, including a simulation that progressively lit up diagnostic light panels around the room. It was unnerving to witness the speed at which a launch could be sent on its way; 58 seconds after two master keys were simultaneously turned and held. The missile we saw has been programmed to hit three different targets. The final target was determined by the launch code held in a series of envelopes stored in a bright red safe nearby. Today, these targets are still highly classified.

Our tour ended with a special treat. The museum had made arrangements with the local authorities to operate its launch siren. This generator-driven alarm delivers an eerie, bone-shattering whine from a yellow bullhorn mounted on the top of a tall mast. Its piercing sound sent shivers down my spine, reminding everyone present that the missile below was the real deal. I don’t think anything else could have bought home the frightening reality of nuclear war.

Hot as all hell

2011-09-24T22:34:00.003+10:00

Take a look at the outside temperature as we drove through Phoenix, Arizona. The previous night's television forecast had warned of deadly highs which I naively accepted with "a grain of salt". Wow! That's 113ºF, or 45ºC, showing up on the car dashboard. I'm sure this is the highest outdoor temperature I've ever experienced.

Dinosaurs beware!

2011-09-24T09:49:00.002+10:00

A few months ago Garry and I were watching a TV documentary that featured Meteor Crater, located on the dry, open plains of northern Arizona. It was created about 50,000 years ago by the impact of a 50-metre wide nickel-iron meteor. In seconds the impact created a hole 1,200 metres in diameter, 170 metres deep, enclosed by a jagged rim that rises 45 metres above the surrounding area. While meteor craters are a common sight throughout the solar system, on Earth they're relatively rare. Unlike other planets, or even our moon, on Earth natural erosion by wind and water slowly erases the presence meteor craters. As a result, Meteor Crater is rather unique.

On a whim I googled this landmark's exact location and discovered it was less than an hour's drive from the Painted Desert. We'd already made plans to visit the desert as part of our Southwest Road Trip, before stopping overnight in a nearby town. Regular readers will know I'm total space nut and so our travel plans were quickly modified to incorporate a visit to Meteor Crater. This included changing our hotel to one located in Winslow, Arizona.

This change of plan proved rather fortuitous. We later learnt that the classic trans-continential highway Route 66 passed through Winslow; a highway made famous in all manner of popular culture including a hit single by the Eagles. Their single, "Takin' it Easy", includes the lyrics, "...And take it easy. Well, I’m a standing on a corner, in Winslow, Arizona..." The town has subsequently immortalised the song, building a small park in the centre of town. Here you can take your photo with a bronze statue of a guitar-carrying '70s rambling man, who looks across an intersection dominated by a giant Route 66 logo.

Winslow's place in American folklore actually extends back more than century. Until the 1960s, it was the largest town in northern Arizona. It was built in the 1880s by the Santa Fe Railway Company and soon became a major stop. Today, the train still stops in town, right outside La Posada, a magnificent 1930 hacienda-style inn. The inn was once marked for demolition but was saved and restored a decade ago. We had dinner in its vast dining hall, and were lucky enough to see the last remaining passenger train service pull up outside the window as we dined. Afterwards we ventured across the hotel lawn to see the edge of the track, separated from harm by little more than a low brick wall.

The following morning dawned bright and clear. Perfect conditions for exploring Meteor Crater. Incredibly, the entire site is privately-owned. The land was sold in 1903 ago to Daniel Barringer, a mining entrepreneur who was planned to mine the meteor's iron and nickel deposits. Sadly, most of the meteor had vapourised on impact, leaving only a few fragments buried deep beneath the crater floor thus making its recovery totally uneconomic. His mining venture ultimately failed. However, his descendents have since transformed the site into a popular tourist venture that includes an impressive museum and guided rim walk.

As we wandered past fractured and pulverised rock it was easy to see why NASA once trained moon-walking astronauts here on the geological features of an impact crater. Today, in a nod to Meteor Crater's contribution to the Apollo space program, the museum has installed a life-size cut-out of an astronaut on the base of the crater. This gives you an impressive sense of the crater's size as it took me almost an hour to locate the cut-out on the crater floor. Only then could I truly appreciate just how big this hole is.

In fact, Meteor Crater was so wide I couldn't fit the entire scene into a single photo. However, all is not lost. I found a free app called Autostitch online which let me merge three separate images into the funky panorama shot you can see above (click on the image to see it original size). As Garry sagely noted, the crater really is little more than a spectacular hole in the ground.

Still, it was fascinating to stand on its rim looking in one direction across the scarred interior, before turning to take in the vast, open plain upon which its located. Such a stark contrast makes the staggering power and destruction of a large meteor all too real. Those poor dinosaurs. They really had no chance at all when a similar impact struck the Earth millions of year ago.

Sticks and stones

2011-09-23T19:02:00.001+10:00

Petrified wood is an amazing phenomenon. It’s the fossilized remains of ancient trees that retain the shape and texture of real wood despite being made entirely of stone. It’s created when the tree’s organic material is replaced over thousands of years by minerals, often quart and other silicates. The word petrified comes from the Greek root petro meaning "rock" or "stone"; literally "wood turned into stone".

Conditions have to be just right for petrifaction to occur. The wood must first be buried by sediment that inhibits aerobic decomposition. Mineral-laden water must then flow through the sediment depositing minerals in the tree’s cells as passes, forming a permanent stone mould. Erosion of the surrounding sediment then exposes the rock logs for all to see.

I remember learning about petrified wood at school. At the time my Science textbook included fascinating images of the Petrified Forest in Eastern Arizona. I was totally captivated by the concept of logs made from stone and longed to see them for myself. My childhood dream came true this week after Garry and I spent a day driving through the Petrified Forest National Park.

First designated as a national monument in 1906, the 94,000-acre park is scattered with fossilized vegetation dating from 225 million years ago. Petrified logs are literally lying everywhere you look. They’re a fascinating shade of red, often lying in jumbled line of truncated segments. Up close each log really does look like a tree trunk. The trunk’s rough, crevassed bark surface is clearly visible, occasionally broken by classic branch knots. It cross-section reveals hundreds of narrow growth rings, each preserved by colourful minerals. It’s amazing to see.

Despite the heat, we ventured out to explore several walking tracks that took visitors passed the park’s best preserved logs. Some were more than ten metres long, others were as wide as we were tall. Interestingly, every log was always found in short sections. We discovered the reason for these segments on one of our walks. Basically, the hard mineral logs are buried in layers of comparatively soft sedimentary sandstone. Over time these sediments erode. Flash floods form deep crevasses in the soft rock, occasionally exposing the end of a log. These exposed ends eventually collapse under their own weight. A new length of log is then exposed and the process repeats until the entire log has been excavated from the ground.

The process of erosion has resulted in some incredible sights. At one location we saw exposed logs resting precariously on the crest of narrow ridges, tens of metres above the surrounding valley. Elsewhere the erosion has simply exposed colourful layers of sediment that ring the hills for miles around. In fact, just a few miles north lies the equally spectacular Painted Desert.

You reach it by crossing over Interstate 40. This highway bisects the entire state of Arizona. It replaced the famous two-lane highway, Route 66, became immortalized in American pop culture. Today, the road that once passed through the park is gone. However, its route is still traced across the desert by a decaying row of old wooden telegraph poles. They’re a haunted memorial of another, more simple time. The route is more formally memorialized by a rusting old car mounted in stone on the park roadside.

I was rather disappointed by the Painted Desert. Prior to our visit I’d seen images of a dry, red and eroded valley floor. The undulating, multilayer rock formations looked stunning. However, our visit came at the tail end of weeks of heavy rain. As a result the entire desert floor was awash with grass and plant life. Instead of seeing classic images of a harsh baren desert we encountered something that looked remarkably like a local sheep farmer’s paddock. As a result, I've enhanced colours in the images posted here to bring the spectacle to life.

The entire experience was made all the more amusing by Garry’s constant comments about the amazing desert colours. I simply couldn’t understand why Garry thought such grey and green landscape was so spectacular. It wasn’t until we were leaving our final outlook stop that we suddenly realized his polarized sunglasses had helpfully tinting the entire scene a vivid, desert red. I tried them on and instantly entire desertscape was transformed. We both had a chuckle at the misunderstanding that had dominated our afternoon. Judge the differnce for youself below..

Expanded VLA

2011-09-22T14:11:00.000+10:00

Almost any science fiction fan can identify an image of the Very Large Array (VLA) radio telescope. This impressive collection of 27 mobile antennas was the opening backdrop for "Contact", a screen adaptation of Carl Sagan's popular novel, starring Jodi Foster. In the movie, Jodie's character detects the first signals from an alien species while relaxing in the shadow of the array.

The VLA sits on the Plains of San Agustin, a desolate plateau in western New Mexico, more than 50 miles from the nearest city. They make for a spectacular scene as you crest hills circling the plateau. Each of the telescope's white dish antenna measure 25 metres is diameter and weighs a hefty 230 tons. They ride on railway tracks that enable them to fan out along a Y-shape configuration up to 37kms apart. Two of the three rail arms even extend across local highways.

The complex was originally authorized by the US congress in 1972. It officially opened in 1980 after more than 16 years of steady construction. The US National Radio Astronomy Observatory (NRAO), a joint venture between the nation's universities and the National Science Foundation, maintains the facility and controls its use.

In 2001 the NRAO began work on the US$98 million Expanded VLA (or EVLA) project. The project, due for completion next year, is an extensive technology upgrade designed to make the telescope ten times more sensitive to faint radio frequencies. Its 1970's-vintage electronics, analogue data tranmission systems and computing technoology are being replaced by modern optical fibre technology and a new, powerful supercomputing able to process in an hour the same volume of data collected by the VLA during its first thirty years of service.

Garry and I visited the EVLA today enroute to Arizona. We couldn't have picked a better day to visit. The array is currently being transitioned from its most compact formation. This meant we could see all 27 antennas in close proximity and watch its special red transporter unit carefully relocate the gleaming white dishes. Visitors are enable to take a self-guided walk around the facility including a close-up look at one of the active dishes. We were also lucky enough to see a dish ungoing repair in the facilities giant covered workshed.

Room enough to swing a cat

2011-09-22T12:13:00.002+10:00

Where do you go when you need to test a missile? White Sands Missile Range of course. This restricted area stretches more than 50 miles along the edge of the Organ Mountains. Almost every missile in the US military arsenal was tested here at some point. More than 65 years after opening, missile testing continues on the range today. Each test closes the State Highway 70 that crosses the range, often for hours at a time.

Some of the range's earliest test subjects are currently on display in a spectacular missile park. The park and accompanying museum sit on the edge of a secure military facility. Visitors are required to park their car outside the perimeter fence and walk through a secure checkpoint. As you cross you're warned not to take photographs beyond the boundary of the missile park, with your camera always facing west.

It seemed somewhat ironic that we could wander unfettered between dozens of missiles on display, taking photos at will while the latest nuclear delivery system was being tested nearby. However, Garry and I both noted that almost every missile in park was first tested at least three decades ago. The latest technology was clearly not on display.

The park is also home to one of the world's best preserved German V2 rockets. More than 200 of them were shipped to White Sands at the end of WWII as America sought to master this new technology. The V2 currently on display has been carefully cut open to reveal its interior. The engineering was fascinating. It was clear the Germans were far ahead of the times, even more so given that Robert Goddard had only launched the world's first successful liquid fuel rocket less than 25 years earlier.

New Mexico is the perfect place to test a missile. The state is vast and empty. In the last two days we've driven hundreds of kilometres, soaking up views of an arid, empty landscape. As you can from the photo above, at times the road seemed to stretch forever.

The area's harsh climate was also bought into stark relief when we visited Elephant Butte Lake. This is a man made body of water formed when the Rio Grande was dammed in 1916. Currently, its almost empty with a series of prominent mineral deposits ringing the lake edge more than 25 metres above the current water line.

It was here that we also stopped for the night. We stayed at the Sierra Grande Lodge & Spa, a restored hotel in the nearby town of Truth or Consequences. The hotel sits atop a natural mineral hot spring. As guests we were invited to enjoy a complimentary soak, before enjoying a refreshing massage. Ahhhh. Relaxing!

A view that's out of this world

2011-09-20T14:49:00.001+10:00

We've just completed Day Two of our grand road trip. The last couple of days have been an entertaining blend of space science and natural wonders. Here's a few brief highlights.

Yesterday began with a visit to the International UFO Museum & Research Centre in Roswell. This walls of of this cavernous building contains a series of simple displays capturing original photographs and eye witness accounts of the 1947 Roswell Incident. Sadly the exhibit lacked a cohesive flow. As a result much of the drama surrounding this controversial event was lost.

Our second tourist stop, the Roswell Museum & Art Centre, was a little more rewarding. Among its exhibits is a reconstruction of the lab operated by Dr Robert Goddard, the man who build the world’s first liquid fuel rocket. The lab is filled with his original tools and machinery, donated by his wife when she died in 1982. The museum also displays a variety of Goddard's early rocketry artefacts, including some of his earliest pioneering efforts.

We then headed west to Alamogordo, stopping briefly to take in the historic streetscape of Lincoln, where the outlaw Billy the Kid kicked off his criminal exploits. Our bed for the night was at the White Sands Motel, a classic, family-owned roadside motel. The original architecture and illuminated billboard sign have been lovely preserved, while each room's interior has been meticulously restore.

We spent today touring the New Mexico Museum of Space History and the spectacular white dunes that give White Sands its name. The Space History Museum sits on a hill overlooking the town. Many of its exhibits are devoted to the missile and rocket research conducted in the area. Highlights include a rocket sled used to test human tolerance for rapid deceleration and the Big Joe rocket, which tested the Apollo’s command module’s emergency escape rocket. I was also reminded that the Space Shuttle landed near here once, just once, in 1982 when alternative landing sites were plagued by poor weather.

We then drove out to the White Sands National Monument. National Parks in the USA are often called monuments. The area’s famous white sand consists of chalky, powered gypsum, a rare form of sand. Gypsum dissolves readily in water and thus rarely survives long enough to form giant rolling dunes.

A 16-mile scenic road loops through the dunes, offering one stunning vista after another. We stopped several times to trek climb the dunes and admire the scene around us. The park also offers a couple of educational walks, each signposted with a series of information panels.

The adventure begins

2011-09-18T17:10:00.004+10:00

We've arrived safely in Roswell, New Mexico. Our long-haul flight from Sydney to Dallas passed without incident, landing almost 20 minutes ahead of schedule. This allowed us to make a leisurely transfer to our onward flight into Roswell.

Arriving at Roswell was quite spectacular. The airport includes an expanding "airplane graveyard" where retired commercial aircraft are parked when they're taken out of service. Several hundred aircraft of all sizes from 747s to small commuter jets stand glinting in the afternoon sun. Our plane taxied past every single one of them on it's way to the tiny terminal building where another dozen 747s sat dormant.

Roswell has two claims to fame. Ten miles north of town rumour has it that a UFO crash-landed here more than 60 years ago. While the crash has long been attributed to debris from a weather balloon, conspiracy theorists continue to claim alien bodies were recovered from the wreckage of an intergalactic spacecraft. No doubt we'll learn more tomorrow when we visit the International UFO Research Museum in the centre of town.

Roswell is also home to Dr Robert Goddard, the man who invented liquid propulsion rocketry. He experimented on a series of ever larger and more sophisticated rockets on the outskirts of town for more than thirty years. Every modern rocket, from Apollo's Saturn V to the recently retired Space Shuttle main engines, can trace its origins back to his pioneering work.

Today a statue of Goddard stands proudly on the main street looking up at one of his carefully preserved launch towers. Earlier this evening we stopped briefly to pay homage to his bronze edifice while returning from dinner. I swear it's a coincidence that our hotel is located just across the street.

• Posted from my iPhone
• Location: W Country Club Rd,Roswell,United States

Counting down the days

2011-09-13T07:06:00.008+10:00

We're making final preparations for our road trip through New Mexico and Arizona. We fly out for Dallas on Saturday morning. Stay tuned for dozens of images and adventures in the weeks ahead.

Party in the house tonight

2011-09-12T20:55:00.046+10:00

It's been a while between posts. I guess you could say it's a sign of the times as our lives return to normal in Australia. I've also been unable to share news of efforts that have taken up much of our time in recent weeks; for good reason. Garry and I have been focused on preparations for a surprise party celebrating his father's 70th birthday. Last Saturday we hosted 19 people for dinner in our apartment; seating everyone at a five-metre long dining table.

It took weeks to prepare the table alone. We we had to create custom joinery to link our existing dining table and outdoor tables, source matching linen for an extended table setting and create appropriately themed table displays. Highlights included helium balloon sculptures at either end of the table, two golden "70" numeral stands we created from cardboard craft pieces and a forest of matching glassware. We even found a store selling quality cotton napkins manufactured in handy dispensing rolls. Should the mood grab us we now have everything we'll ever need to recreate a five-metre banquet table in future.

However our efforts weren't in vain. The final result looked spectacular. Unfortunately in our haste to get ready for our guest's arrival on Saturday we forgot to take any photos. Several guests did so I'm sure we'll have images to share in due course. The evening went well and the praise from those present has been flattering.

Everyone enjoyed the food, the company and the celebration theme we'd created. Garry ordered a special "70" shaped cake and luxurious mini-desserts from a local patisserie, while I'd bought crusty artisan bread and a selection of French champagne. Dinner included a groaning cheese board, super fresh produce from the Sydney Fish Markets, a variety of spectacular salads and a couple of tasty roasts. However the highlight of the night seemed to be our choice of wine. The Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc kept disappearing as swiftly as the ice bucket was filled.

Happy 70th Murray!

Our polar neighbours

2011-08-17T23:03:00.003+10:00

Having regularly critiqued English weather in rather unsavory terms, it’s been fascinating to watch a “once in a generation” weather event unfold in New Zealand. The entire nation has been smothered by frigid polar air sweeping in from Antarctica. On Monday snow fell briefly in downtown Auckland, something last witnessed in 1939.

Weather historians say that the 1939 event dropped 5cm of snow on top of Mt Eden. Snow also fell in suburbs like Ponsonby, Remuera. In 1939 it also snowed at the lighthouse at the very top end of the North Island. There was also three hours of snow in Gisborne, while Banks Peninsula and Otago witnessed snow drifts up to 10 metres deep.

On this occasion snow didn’t settle in Auckland. However, the city did record its coldest temperature ever yesterday; a chilly 8.2°C. Snow also fell for two days in Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin. Even the hills around Whangarei in Northland got a dusting. It also came as no surprise to read that a record load was recorded across the national power grid yesterday. Demand peaked at 7098MW shortly after 7.30am; the nation’s third such record in less than a month. It’s clearly been a very cold winter in New Zealand.

New Zealand’s weather was definitely a factor that encouraged me to migrate as an adult. I felt the cold every winter and hated every moment of it. Throughout my entire childhood I wore a winter uniform consisting of shorts and socks held up by garters. This meant that I'd find myself walking to school in the midst of winter across playing fields covered in thick, crunchy frost.

I also recall school being cancelled when more than an inch of snow fell in Dunedin. It only happened once, in 1973, but my brothers and I enjoyed a day building snowmen on the front lawn. My artwork melted overnight. However, my brother Hamish packed his snow so firmly it took almost a week for his iceman to disappear. Of course he now lives in Austria and enjoys permanent snow cover for almost six months of the year.

Meanwhile, Sydney was blessed with bursts of sunshine and afternoon high of 18°C last weekend. However, our overnight temperature is forecast to drop to 8°C by Friday. Maybe London weather wasn't all that bad.

PHOTO SOURCE: NZ Herald, August 17, 2011

Where to next?

2011-08-14T00:09:00.006+10:00

This wouldn't be The Swiss Cottage blog without a few travel adventures in the calendar. Never fear; we have quite a few adventures in the works. Next month Garry and I will be off for a two week road trip through New Mexico and Arizona. We fly into Dallas, non-stop from Sydney, where we then catch a commuter flight to Roswell, New Mexico. From here we collect a rental car and spend ten days exploring a plethora of space, astronomy and science fiction destinations. Of course, Roswell kicks off the road trip with its infamous UFO research museum. However, the town was also home to Robert Goddard, the father of modern rocket science. Many of his early experimental rockets are on display in the town museum.

We then drive west to Alamagordo, home of the New Mexico Museum of Space History nd on to White Sands, where the White Sands Missle Range Museum. This journey will take us at least two days. We'll then turn north and drive past Spaceport America, a new private space tourism complex that will become home to Virgin Galactic some time next year. Our next stop will be the Very Large Array, an impressive complex of radio telescopes stretching miles across the desert. The site featured in the opening credits of the 1997 science fiction movie Contact, starring Jodie Foster.

Our itinerary will then focus on a host of natural phenonmeon in central Arizona including the Painted Desert, the Petrified Forest and Meteor Crater, one the world's most widely recognised meteorite impact sites. From here we'll head south to Tucson where more space and science sights await. Our first stop in Tucson is the Titan Missile Museum where a former Cold War nuclear weapon remains on display in deep, blast protected silo. We'll also be visiting the city's famous airplane graveyard where thousands of decommissioned US airforce aircraft are stored at the end of their useful life. I'm also keen to visit Biosphere 2 where an unsuccessful experiment in closed-cycle ecosystem ran for several years.

We'll then head south again to the wild west town of Tombstone. This is your classic frontier town of the Western movie genre. Here we'll celebrate my birthday with a visit to the world renown OK Corral, once home to outlaw, Billy the Kid. The final stop on our tour is Los Angeles. I've been here several times before (see the photos above taken from Griffith Observatory in December 2009). However, Garry's barely left the airport and so is keen to experience the city's famous sights and sounds. I've mapped out a three-day itinerary that will take us to Hollywood, Santa Monica and Beverly Hills among other attractions.

Then, barely a week after we return to Australia, I'll be off again for a business trip that takes in Hong Kong, London and Madrid. While in the UK I'm hoping to take a weekend excursion up to Northern Wales. Several years ago I mapped out a road trip for Garry and I to Telford and Llangollen. Why here? Telford is the gateway to Ironbridge, home of the world's first metal bridge; while Llangollen is famous for the magnificant Pontcysyllte Aqueduct built by Thomas Telford between 1795 and 1805. This waterway, rising 38 metres above the valley floor, carries canal boats across the Dee River in Wales. The town also has a wonderful steam railway that follows the Dee upstream for several scenic miles.

Finally, there's the Christmas/New Year period. We've had numerous debates about what we should do. We already debated taking a road trips to Tasmania or through the southern half of New Zealand's North Island. However, we've yet to finalise our plans. Of course we may simply stay home as we'll be off to port Douglas in early-April next year for a family wedding. Garry's already talking about hiring a four-wheel drive and making our way to Cape York. It seems there are no end of holiday destinations we've yet to experience.

Health care; up close and personal

2011-08-13T21:24:00.002+10:00

It’s been my turn in hospital this week. I went into surgery on Tuesday afternoon for a submucous resection septopasty, turbinectomy and concha bullosa resection; or as some would say, I’ve had a nose job. Over the last few years my nose has become progressively blocked by swollen nasal membranes and a deviated septum (the piece of cartilage that separates your nostrils). The condition was seriously aggrevated by chronic hayfever I suffered annually in London. In more rece3nt years things had reached a point where was breathing from one nostril during the day, then snoring loudly all night.

In case you’re wondering, a submucous resection is an operation where they separate the mucus lining in your nostril from the underlying cartilage. The cartilage is then reshaped and the lining restitched. A turbinectomy involves reducing the size of three internal nodules, or turbinates, that line the nasal passage. The last bit of surgery had every nurse completely stumped. A concha bullosa is an air cavity that often develops inside one or more turbinates. These can swell over time, blocking the nasal passage. The surgery took just over an hour and all seems to be healing well.

This was my first time under general anesthetic. Despite my apprehension, the experience wasn’t particularly unpleasant. In fact, I find it rather fascinating to awake in a brightly lit room surrounded by fancy machines and attentive nurses. I cannot recall being so pampered and fussed over for a long time. Nor were they the least bit bothered that I had a large blood splattered tampon-like bandage strapped under my nose. If I'm honest, the entire experience of being in hospital gave me a fascinating insight into the world of modern medicine.

Perhaps the most surprising observation was the number of people I dealt with during my brief 20 hours as a patient. Each had a distinct role, performed professionally and efficiently. Before surgery I met at least seven people including my doctor and anesthetist. Six separate people attended to me in my first hours after surgery, then the following morning another six people visited me in quick succession bringing newspapers, breakfast and paperwork to sign. In all I counted at least 19 different people who came to my bedside at various times.

I had no idea so many people were involved in the running a hospital from administrators and cleaners, to doctors and nurses. The volume and variety of roles I encountered was fascinating. All were polite, caring and consistently put me at ease. I’ll never fear going into hospital again. However, the bills now arriving in my letter box are a shock to the system. It seems that such attentive care comes at a cost. I'm left pondering how to reduce headcounts and thus the spiraling cost of health care without sacrificing its quality.

Innsbruck

2011-08-02T23:32:00.002+10:00

Since 1990 I’ve passed through the city of Innsbruck in Austria at least three times. On each occasion I’ve been in transit by train and have never left the station. Innsbruck is located in the Inn Valley, a broad valley that takes traveler north to the Brenner Pass, one the Alp’s main gateways to Italy; or west across the Arlberg Pass into Switzerland. Both are spectacular journeys through truly stunning, snow-clad alpine landscapes. Given its mountainous location, the city has twice host the Winter Olympics; first in 1964 and again in 1976.

Last weekend, my brother Hamish took the entire family for a day trip to Innsbruck. Our one hour journey proved the ultimate test of his family-sized people wagon. We successfully crammed seven of us into the vehicle; Hamish and my sister-in-law; their two children, my parents and I. Our itinerary for the day saw us experience three of the city’s most popular sights; the Bergiselschanze (Olympic Ski Jump), the Innsbruck Riesenrundgemalde (a giant panoramic painting) and the famous Golden Roof, located in the centre of the old city.

The Bergiselschanze is hard to miss. It sits on a low hill overlooking the city. The hill, called Bergisel, was once the site of four battles fought between the forces of Napoleon and the Kingdom of Bavaria against local Tyrolean militiamen in 1809. Today a soaring ski jump dominates its crown. The jump rises 50 metres above the surrounding area. A short elevator ride takes you up to an observation platform offering an uninterrupted view across Innsbruck and the surrounding valley.

The jump track itself runs 98 metres down a 35 degree incline. Jumpers reach more than 98 kmph by the time they’re launched into the air. Ironically, the view directly ahead takes in the cluttered graveyard of Stiftskirche, an ornate 17th Century church on the edge of town. I’m sure more than one jumper has lost their nerve thanks to such a sobering sight.

Nearby is the recently constructed Riesenrundgemalde building. Inside is an impressive life-sized panorama painting of the final battle of Bergisel. The giant 1000 square metre canvas took Munich artist Michael Zeno Diemer three months to complete in the early 20th Century. The completed artwork is impressive. It’s incredibly life-like, bringing the tragedy and triumph of war into stark relief. For most of its life the painting was housed in an aging rotunda on the banks of the Inn River. A delicate and controversial relocation to Bergisel was completed in 2009.

After lunch our final destination for the day involved a leisurely stroll through the heart of the old city. Our route inevitably led us to the Goldenes Dachl, or Golden Roof, a famous local landmark. This an ornate three-story balcony capped by a dazzling gilded copper tiles. It was built in 1500 for Maximilian the First, the regining Holy Roman Emperorn as a royal box from which he could sit in state and enjoy tournaments in the town square below.

Five days of sunshine!

2011-08-01T19:00:00.007+10:00

The last few weeks have been an extra-ordinary period for weather in Sydney. While I was travelling for business Garry says we had a week of extremely heavy rain. The downpour was the perfect test for leaks repairs recently completed on our apartment. The repairs have passed with flying colours. We’ve had no repeat of leaks we've typically experienced during previous episodes of heavy rain.

The wet weather has subsequently been replaced by a blast of warm, sunny conditions that have left Sydney basking in the warmest end to the month of July for six years. Temperatures hit a minimum of 20°C over the last four days. Tonight the forecast is for the sunshine and warm temperatures to continue until Friday. Today we enjoyed a high of 23°C, tomorrow is forecast to dip to 22°C before rising to a high of 24°C on Thursday. Other parts of Australia are also enjoying some of the warmest July weather for more than 100 years.

Did I mention that temperatures soared above 37°C for several days while I in New York? I arrived in town at the perfect time. For several days almost 50% of the US population found themselves sweltering under a heatwave advisory. The heat in mid-town Manhattan was incredible. Stepping outside was like walking into a giant sauna; with the heat just as oppressive in the shade. Thank goodness I packed a few short sleeve shirts.

I’m sure regular readers will have noticed my often unhappy musing about the UK’s weather. Sydney’s current bout of winter sunshine has done little to dispel these memories. On several occasions last week temperatures in Sydney were warmer than those I was enjoying in London. The forecast for London on Thursday is 22°C, two degrees cooler than Sydney. Sadly, this constrast is isn't as unusual as it seems.

Last week The Times newspaper noted that the last five years in the UK included some of the wettest July months on record. In particular, June 2007 was the wettest on record as was July 2009. In fairness, the article also noted that July 2006 was the hottest on record. Sadly, this abnormal July gave Garry and I a rather distorted sense of the UK’s regular weather pattern during our first six months in London. The contrast did little to prepare us for the next four years.

UPDATE: August 2, 2011

I've just read that published weather forecasts celebrated their 150th anniversary yesterday. According to the BBC on 1 August 1861 the Times newspaper published the world's forecast.

UPDATE: August 5, 2011

Today’s temperature reached 25 degrees today, seven above the average for August. It was also the ninth consecutive day of temperatures at 20 degrees or higher. Forecasters are predicting a top of 22 degrees tomorrow, equaling Sydney’s winter record of 10 consecutive days at this level.

Memphis memories

2011-07-31T21:04:00.009+10:00

Memphis was a fascinating destination. I flew in early Saturday morning after catching a jet-lagged enhanced 6am flight from New York city. I picked a rental car from the airport and drove straight to Graceland, the former home of Elvis Presley. Since his death in 1977 it’s become a shire to his remarkable legacy and a rather gaudy monument to the enduring success of American capitalism. I was keen to arrive early before the Summer tourist horde began sweeping through the ticket hall.

As you approach the property’s iconic gates (comprising of an iron silhouette of the King surrounded by a musical score), it’s soon clear that the property’s original 5.6 hectres have grown to include a similar sized compound on the roadside directly opposite. This new compound includes an enormous carpark, hotel and guest centre containing museums, gift shops and a shuttle bus centre controlling access to the Graceland mansion. From the road you can also see a compound containing Elvis’ two private aircraft, including a large jet airliner called Lisa Marie. It’s fitted out with a separate living room, conference room, private bedroom (that includes a double bed) and a spacious bathroom.

US$35 gave me access to a range of fascinating exhibits; some awe inspiring, others rather tacky and crudely commercial. I ultimately spent almost four hours exploring the legacy of Elvis. The day started with a tour of the Graceland mansion. Even though I’d arrived within 30 minutes of opening time, I still had to wait at least 30 minutes to start my tour. Guests board a shuttle bus at an air-conditioned visitor’s centre that then drives across the main road and up the curving driveway of Graceland itself. The entire journey takes less than two minutes.

Once inside the mansion, a self-guided audio tour takes guests from room to room on the ground floor and basement. The building upper floor is not open to the public. I assume this includes the bathroom where he was found dead on the morning of August 16, 1977. Interestingly, the audio guide makes no reference to his less than flattering demise. As the years have passed the mansion has become an odd time capsule of seventies décor and popular kitch. The kitchen houses dated microwaves, the TV room displays three quaint CRT colour television screens and his favourite den is carpeted in a eye-watering deep green shag pile carpet.

However, the most memorable venue for me was the Hall of Gold. This a trophy room attached to the side of the mansion housing a mind-boggling display of dozens and dozens of framed gold and platinum records. Other rooms include his Grammy awards, film memorabilia and stage costumes from his final years of live Las Vegas performances.

The sight of wall after wall of awards is stunning. It’s probably the most awe inspiring tribute to one man’s fame and fortune that I’ve ever experienced. The scene brings his staggering success as an artist to life in the most confronting way. The audio guide claims that Elvis has sold more than one billion records since Heartbreak Hotel, his first hit in 1956; a feat that’s never been repeated by any other artist.

From Graceland I made my way into town to check into my hotel. I’d based myself a block away from Beale Street, the city’s blues music heartland. Today two short city blocks have been converted to a cobbled pedestrian mall where The street’s mid-20th Century shop front has been lovely preserved. Its simple venues continue to host a cacophony of live musicians who entertain the wandering (and somewhat intoxicated) crowds throughout the day and late into the night.

The scene was reminiscent of Bourbon Street in New Orleans; albeit on a smaller scale. Of course, this was America, and so it came as no surprise to find that access to the area on Saturday night was restricted to a handful of checkpoints requiring a full body pat-down for weapons before passing. I then spent a bemused hour or so wandering the crowd watching street preachers warn of hell, blues musicans sing of heartbreaks and dozens of youths drink as much cheap beer as humanly possible.

My first day in Memphis ended with a brief visit to the Cotton Museum. The museum is located in the ornate chamber of what was once the city’s thriving cotton exchange where thousands of cotton bales were bought and sold each day. The exhibit provided a fascinating insight into the Deep South’s agricultural past and an industry once depended on the slave trade for its survival. Like any dominant industry, cotton enjoyed its fair share of politics and scandal.

My second, and final day, in town was spent enjoying two iconic locations. The first was Mud Island, home to several venues capturing the spirit of the Mississippi River that marks the city’s western boundary. Once again I was reminded of the river’s awesome power as stood on its banks looking across 500 metres of fast flowing, muddy brown water. The island’s highlights included an extensive museum chronicling the history of the river and an incredible three-dimensional scale model of the Lower Mississippi River. This model maps the flow of the river from its confluence with the Ohio River at Cairo, Illinois more 954 miles south to the Gulf of Mexico.

The scale model is filled with water that gently flows for more than 600 metres to a mock Gulf that doubles as a boat lake in the Summer months. Along the route twenty cities are mapped out; their main streets represented by carefully embedded stainless steel rods. The model gives you an incredible insight into the flood plains of the river, while marked displays along its length bring the river’s history and geology to life. It’s an incredible journey that took me more than an hour to complete.

After lunch I made my way to my second iconic venue, the Lorraine Motel, which houses the National Civil Rights Museum. Getting to the museum involved catching one of Memphis’ beautifully restored tram cars that still trace a leisurely route through the city centre. The Lorraine Motel is the site of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination on April 4, 1968. The museum opened its doors in 1991, chronicling the history of the American Civil Right movement from slavery days until the passage of equal rights legislation in the 1960s.

The museum’s exhibits are well presented and incredibly informative. The volume of information and images is almost overwhelming. However, it gave me an incredible insight into the plight of Black Americans over the last two hundred years. I still find it hard to believe that such oppressive, institutionalized racism was part of everyday life across the South less than fifty years ago.

Perhaps the most poignant moment of the entire tour is the moment visitors are led to Room 306 on the motel’s second floor. The neighbouring room has been moved to create an open observation area looking over the concrete balcony where King’s lifeless body fell. Here you can also look up at the façade of the rooming house on the opposite hillside where James Earl Ray fired his fatal shot. The museum has since bought this building and visitors can now see the bathroom window where Ray had stood. Surrounding exhibits detail the international manhunt that led to his capture at Heathrow, as well as summarizing the Civil Rights movement’s enduring achievements.

However, the most unexpected and somewhat delightful moment of my visit came as I was leaving the museum. When I’d first entered, guests had been directed to a theatre to watch an HBO documentary replaying the final weeks of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s life. Much the story is told in first person by the only other person on the motel balcony at the moment King was shot; Rev Samuel “Billy” Kyles.

Incredibly, as I was leaving, “Billy” walked into the lobby. A nearby security guard told me he still lived in Memphis and occasionally turned up at the museum without warning. It was awe inspiring to stand next to the man that held King in his arms as he died. Nothing could have made this tragic moment in modern history more real, and more personal.

One year and counting

2011-07-28T06:19:00.002+10:00

London is buzzing at the moment. Today marks exactly one year until the city hosts the next Summer Olympic Games. The city is filled with construction works as the tube and other facilities are made ready. Perhaps the most interesting of these is a new cable car that will cross the Thames between the giant O2 dome and the Excel conference centre on the river's northern bank.

Tonight, as I type, the mayor of London is unveiling the design of competition medals at a public ceremony in Trafalgar Square. Last night I wandered through the square as they were installing the glitzy presentation stage and two giant video screens. Nearby stood the countdown clock marking the remaining days and hours until the Opening Ceremony kicks off. The atmosphere in the square brought back many happy memories of Sydney's magnificent Games in September 2000.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Hurst Rd,West Molesey,United Kingdom

Hot in the City

2011-07-21T20:24:00.004+10:00

I'm currently in New York for business. On the way here I broke up my long-haul flight with a brief weekend stopover in Memphis, Tennessee. With the Summer heat at its most intense, I couldn't have picked a better time to visit. Soaring temperatures had sent the locals packing, leaving the city and sights all but deserted. This made it quick and easy to get around and enjoy everything without the constant stress of surging crowds.

Why Memphis? In 1960's it was heartland of the American Civil Rights movement and city where Martin Luther King Jr took his final breath.. I wrote a passionate exposition on his formative year as a poltical figure during my final year of University. For more efforts I was awarded one of the only A Grades I scored during four years of study. As a result, I was keen to gain a better sense of the culture and environment that spawned such a violent and angry period in American history.

Memphis is also home to some of modern music's most innovative artists including B.B. King, the man often considered the father of modern Blues. This pioneering scene went on to inspire the world's most successful musician, Elvis Presley. Since 1954 the self-proclaimed King of Rock and Roll, or simply just "the King", has sold over one billion records worldwide, more than any other artist in history. His music inspired a generation who went to create the world we live in today.

With so much transformative history its midst, Memphis proved to be a fascinating destination. Over two leisurely days I came face to face with some poginant moments in modern American history; including a chance meeting the only man standing with Martin Luther King Jr. at the moment he was shot and killed by escaped convict James Earl Ray in 1968. I'll share more details shortly.

PS: The photo above is the Pyramid Arena located on the banks of the Mississippi River in Memphis. It's a 20142-seat arena, built in 1991, that dominates the downtown shoreline. However, its been empty since 2004, after new, more flexible stadium opened its doors just off historic Beale Street. The day I was in town the pyramid literally shimmered in the midday sun. Spectacular!

Winter returns

2011-07-12T18:22:00.002+10:00

Sydney's just had its sunniest week in six months. The Sydney Morning Herald reports that an average of 10 hours sunshine has graced each of the past seven days, making it the sunniest week since January, when one week averaged 10.5 hours of sun. In fact, we've had the sunniest start to July for at least nine years. Tonight the sky is extraordinarily clear making our city view more spectacular than ever.

Sadly, the wonderful weather is forecast to come to an end as scattered rain is predicted for tomorrow. Its likely to stay this way for the next week or so. Thank goodness I'm off to New York for business on Friday. The Big Apple is forecasting sunshine and highs approaching 30°C while I'm in town.

Winter takes its toll

2011-07-10T21:53:00.000+10:00

We’ve enjoyed another weekend of blue skies sunshine. However, temperatures struggled to rise above 16°C today, unlike last weekend when the high hit 21°C. With sunshine almost every day for the last two weeks even my daily walk to work has been rather pleasant. In fact, I felt uncomfortably warm at least one morning while simply wearing a leather jacket. The sunshine is forecast to continue until mid-week with highs reaching 18°C.

We’ve put the sunshine to good use potting around on our main balcony making minor repairs outstanding since our return. This included tying down irrigation pipes, repairing the outdoor lighting and staining an old teak bench. Today’s endeavours saw us applying a coat of marine varnish to the bench before the sun slipped behind nearby building.

Earlier in the week wind warning were in effect for much of the region. Despite our apartment’s location we only saw the odd gust from our balcony. However, the hills surrounding Sydney were hit hard. In the Blue Mountains west of Sydney trees were blown across rail tracks. One tree even struck a passing train. Nobody was injured. We later heard that winds had been gusting up to 70 km/h during the day.

On Wednesday morning I also witnessed a tree being toppled while working to work. My attention was initially drawn by a loud crack barely 50 metres ahead. I glanced up in response and was stunned to see a spindly pine tree gracefully descend across the pavement in a shower of needles. As I watched it slowly came to rest on the back of a parked car. Again, nobody was harmed while I was left to marvel how I'd found myself in the right place at the right time to witness such a rare event.

Trees aren’t the only things coming to grief at the moment. In the last few weeks we’ve had three appliances fail. First, our Italian coffee machine broke after seven years of faithful service. Second, our iron began blowing fuses around the house. Then finally, our new toaster’s release mechanism stopped working. Winter is clearly taking it toll.

Direct to Dallas

2011-06-26T19:03:00.002+10:00

I’m currently scheduled to fly to London for business in late-July. This next flight will be another round-the-world ticket that has me stopping in New York and Hong Kong on the way to and from the UK. My itinerary includes the new Sydney to Dallas non-stop route Qantas began flying last month. The 13,800km flight is currently recognized as the world’s third longest non-stop commercial route. Garry and I will also be flying the same route again in September when we head to the USA for our grand southwest road trip through New Mexico and Arizona.

The photos above were taken in 2005 when Garry and I stopped for several days in Dallas. It's a bronze sculpture in Pioneer Plaza, a downtown park, that depicts long-horn steers being driven to market. The incredible artwork contains more 70 bronze steers and 3 trail riders, each cast slightly larger than life. The animals make their down a small hill, across a shallow stream and on towards the park's open ground.

While in the USA next month, I’ll be taking a weekend side trip to Memphis, Tennessee. My interest in this city was pricked a few years ago when I found myself in transit at Memphis airport. While waiting for my next flight I read a summary of the local sights and vowed to return. I’m hoping to visit Graceland, the former home of Elvis Presley, sail on the Mississippi in an old paddle and steamer and tour the infamous Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King was assassinated in 1968. These days the motel houses a museum devoted to the American Civil Rights movement.

The following weekend while en-route to London I’ll be dropping in to see my brother and family in Austria. My visit will be a mini-family reunion as my parents will also be visiting at the same time. Phew! July's going to be a busy month.

Sealing the deal

2011-06-24T22:02:00.001+10:00

We purchased our Sydney apartment more than seven years ago. At the time we were aware of several water leaks that had plagued its early years. Over the years numerous repairs have progressively resolved each leak, with one exception. Despite several attempts nobody has found the source of a persistent leak that appeared during unusually heavy rain. That is, until now.

Earlier this year, the building's Body Corporate finally agreed to undertake a series of extensive leak tests. Specialists were called in to spend the day dousing our external walls in a curtain of water. Two separate leak sites were subsequently identified. Everyone's confident that the source of the problem has finally been found.

As a result, this week we've been woken to the sound of builders hammering away outside. Brick by brick a series of faulty water seals are being removed and replaced by new, modified alternatives. By the time they've finished we'll be ready to take on Noah's flood without so much as damp patch to show for it.

The repairs are an impressive affair. A temporary hanging scaffold platform has been swung from the roof of our building, giving the builders access to the entire outer wall. We've watched them chiseling away as their platform gently sways seven vertigo-inducing floors above the courtyard below.

However, their good works got off to a bad start. Garry returned from a job interview earlier in the week to find that the glass skylight in our bathroom had been broken by a careless scaffold labourer. We've now got a second repair to endure before our home is finally waterproof. We've waited seven years for these repairs, what's another month?

Images of Melbourne

2011-06-17T22:09:00.006+10:00

Garry and I enjoyed three days of sunshine in Melbourne although the day time temperature never rose above 14C. Fortunately, we came prepared with winter coats we'd brought with us from London. We spent three days enjoying great food, exploring central Melbourne's Fitzroy Gardens and leisurely cruising up the Yarra River past more of the city's picturesque parkland. Central Melbourne is far greener than I'd ever appreciated and the former Olympic precinct on the Yarra's northern bank has been dramatically transformed into an appealing public space.

Dinner on Saturday night was particularly enjoyable. We caught a tram out to South Melbourne on the shores of Port Phillip to join a former work colleague for dinner. Much to our delight we discovered a completely new area of Melbourne. Who knew that Port Melbourne boasted such a large, expansive white-sand beach; less than 15 minutes by tram from the city centre? Dinner was at The Graham, an contemporary gastro pub in a old stone building, located on a quiet residential street. The service was exceptional, as was the food and wine.

On our final day we came across Cook's Cottage in the midst of Fitzroy Gardens. This small stone cottage, sitting in the heart of the gardens, was once the home of James and Grace Cook, the parents of English explorer, Captain James Cook. The cottage was originally built in 1755 in the North Yorkshire village of Great Ayton. In 1933 the cottage was sold to Russell Grimwade, a Melbourne businessman and philanthropist, who arranged for it to be deconstructed and shipped to Australia. More than 253 cases and 40 barrels were required to transport the building to Melbourne where it was reassembled in time to celebrate the centenary of the city's European settlement in 1934.

We were also captivated by the street art in Hoiser Lane. This narrow, cobbled lane of featureless buildings and back entrances has become a cultural institution. Local and international street artists vie for the opportunity to “tag” its walls with fascinating spray paint art. We were surprised to learn that its graffiti-covered walls and art-installations have become a popular backdrop for fashion and wedding photography. Thanks to our hotel’s location we found ourselves wandering pass the lane’s entrance several times a day.

All in all it was a lazy few days where we simply kicked back and enjoyed the sights in Australia's second largest city. Here's a few pictorial memories.

Are we stranded?

2011-06-13T12:16:00.007+10:00

A recent volcanic eruption in Chile has thrown Australian air travel into chaos overnight. In scenes reminiscent of last year's Icelandic volcanic ash cloud disruption in Europe we've woken to news that flights in and out of Melbourne were cancelled overnight. Tens of thousands of passengers have been affected as the three-day holiday weekend draws to a close.

Currently flights covering the lower southeast corner of Australia and across the Tasman have been disrupted as a dense ash cloud lingers 8,500 metres overhead. We're scheduled to fly from Melbourne at 7pm this evening however Qantas says no decision on the resumption of flights will be taken before noon today. We could be in for an interesting evening!

UPDATE: 9.15pm
We've arrived safely back in Sydney after an uneventful flight back from Melbourne. There were long queues waiting at the airport in Melbourne for new flight assignments at both the Qantas and Jetstar counters. At least one staff member from our Sydney office was caught up in the chaos and is now stranded in Melbourne for another 24 hours.

• Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
• Location: Bourke St, Melbourne,Australia

Down South

2011-06-11T16:27:00.003+10:00

It's a three-day holiday weekend in Sydney. With a extra day to hand Garry and I have decided to head south for a change of scenery. We've cashed in some frequent flyer points and made our way to Melbourne this morning. Our trip was well planned as three continuous days of sunshine are forecast for Melbourne, while Sydney prepares for a daily shower or two. Since arriving, we've already trawled through the opening hours of the nation's annual Winter sales and enjoyed a leisurely lunch soaking up the sun on the bank of the Yarra River. This evening we'll catch a tram to South Melbourne and the shores of Port Phillip where we'll be joining friends for dinner in an old stone pub.

• Posted from my iPhone

• Location:Wellington Parade S,Melbourne,Australia

The Banana Republic

2011-06-05T18:54:00.001+10:00

Cyclone Yasi ripped through North Queensland in early-February this year. It was Australia’s most powerful cyclone in living memory, recording wind speeds reaching 225km/h at its peak, and leaving a trail of destruction in its wake. The nation’s banana crop was hit particularly hard. In the months since, the fruit’s price has soared. As of yesterday, our local supermarket was selling bananas for a staggering $13.98 per kilogram, or more than $30 per pound. Elsewhere I've seen them selling for at much as $15.00. Prior to Yasi’s arrival bananas were going out the door for less than $5 per kilo.

However, the soaring price of bananas, while understandable, isn’t the only retail price that’s stunned us since our return from London. In fact, almost every price tag has been something of a shock, regardless of the retail category. For example, our cable television bill has doubled, our internet bill is almost three times more expensive and our first utility bill was mistaken for an accounting error. In short, Garry and I are beginning to appreciate that fresh food and most retail items were significantly cheaper in London.

Nationwide, Australia's retail prices are becoming a contentious subject. As the Australian dollar rises in value, offshore online shopping has began increasingly popular, and frequently cheaper than buying locally. We’ve already noticed identical items online that are significantly cheaper than prices we’ve seen in local stores, even after shipping costs are added to the invoice. Given the tyranny of distance and its impact on freight costs you’d expect price tags to differ. However, the difference has become so extreme that it’s clear something else is driving up local retail prices.

Numerous theories abound. Retailers claim that commercial rents are three or four times higher in main street Australia. The minimum wage, and thus the cost of labour, is also higher. There may be some grain of truth to these claims. Commercial rent typically represents up to 25% of revenue in Australia, while global brands typically pay less than 10% in the United States. Last week the minimum wage was increased by 3.4%, or $15.51 an hour, to $589.30 a week for a full-time employees. By contrast, the current minimum wage in the UK, set in October 2010, is £5.93 per hour for adults aged 21 or older; less for younger workers. That less than A$9.20 per hour.

However, higher commercial rent and labour costs cannot account for the entire price differential. Analysts suggest that Australians, use to higher prices generated by a weaker dollar, are still willing to pay the same retail price even though the wholesale cost of imported goods has fallen 40% or more. Personally, I’m waiting for the new banana crop to mature.

Sydney's version of winter

2011-05-28T09:34:00.002+10:00

Winter officially starts five days from now. Until this last week you'd have never known it. Only a week ago I spend most of Sunday afternoon at the Sydney Cricket Ground (SCG) watching a football game and soaking up the sunshine in a short-sleeved shirt. However, the weather took a turn for the worse on Wednesday as a cold front brought rain, wind and rather cool temperatures. Daytime temperatures dropped as low as 14°C and fell to 10°C overnight (much like an English Spring). I even turned on the central heating in the evening for several hours; the first I've felt such a need to since returning to Australia.

Today, after three days of inclement weather, we've woken to blue skies and dazzling sunshine. The view from our balcony is simply sublime (see above). It's been made all the more inspiring thanks to Garry's hard work. He took it upon himself to sand and re-stain the weathered teak bench on our balcony while I was in New York. He's done a brilliant job, returning the grey lifeless wood to its former glory. We now have another cosy spot to sit, enjoy the view and contemplate life.

Sadly, the sunshine is forecast to disappear as another week of rain is on its way. I'm not sure whether to laugh or cry. After two unusually cold winters in London we've returned to Sydney just in time to enjoy the city's wettest Autumn for more than 20 years. March was particularly damp. On March 19 alone, Sydney recorded its heaviest 24-hour period of rain for more than 27 years when 99mm fell. April then proved no better. The city received 206.2 mm of rain during the month, well above the historical average of 125.8 mm, making it the wettest April since 1999.

UPDATE: May 30
I read today that weather watchers are pedicting that May 2011 will be declared Sydney's coldest May for more than 40 years thanks to overnight temperatures falling well below their seasonal average.

Seven flights; 38,000 kilometres; 12 time zones

2011-05-22T09:56:00.010+10:00

I've just returned from three weeks on the road for business. My travels have taken me to San Francisco, New York and Hong Kong; with a few quirky side-trips along the way. In the days ahead I'll share four posts on the following topics; check back regularly for new links as they're activated:

Ground Zero - towers are rising again.
Niagara Falls - a close-up look at nature's awesome power
The deja vu inspiration for Sydney's famous icon (that's right; the opening photo in this post wasn't taken in Australia)
Hot dogs and cold brews at the Yankee Stadium.

For this trip I took advantage of the OneWorld Alliance's Circle Pacific fare. As a result, I found myself flying Qantas to the USA, American Airlines to New York and then on to Hong Kong courtesy of Japan Airlines and Cathy Pacific. I can safely say that Japan Airlines has the best premium economy cabin, second only to that offered by Virgin Atlantic. However, it was Qantas that pleasantly surprised me on both legs I flew with the airline.

First, en route to San Francisco, I found myself assigned a flat-bed seat despite travelling on a premium economy ticket. Earlier this year the airline stopped providing a First Class cabin on this route. However, the original seats remain in place. As a result, some business class passengers find themselves notionally upgraded to these seats, which means that some Premium Economy passengers are assigned business class seats. Hooray!

Furthermore, the inflight entertainment system went on the fritz during the flight. I wasn't too annoyed as I had a couple of magazines I wanted to read and was keen for a good night's sleep across the Pacific. However, upon arriving home I discovered a $350 travel voucher from Qantas sitting in my mail pile apologising for the inconvenience. That'll be a weekend away for Garry and I courtesy of Qantas.

Finally, was able to cash in some points for a business class upgrade out of Hong Kong and thus secured another flat-bed seat back home. Even after accounting for these points I've still earned more this trip than I ultimately cashed in. Perhaps there is an upside to flying more than 38,00o kilometres in less than 20 days.

Ground Zero Redux

2011-05-20T23:43:00.003+10:00

In few short months from now Americans will pause to remember the tragic events of September 11, 2001. As the tenth anniversary this year’s remembrance will carries greater significance than usual. With the date rapidly approaching, construction workers are laboring to complete a new national memorial at Ground Zero in New York. An accompanying museum will open next year on the 11th anniversary.

The memorial consists of two square waterfalls set within the footprint of twin towers. The waterfalls will cascade into the reflecting pools before finally disappearing into a gaping central void. Surrounding the waterfalls is a cobblestone plaza filled with more than 300 oak trees. The trees were selected from a 500-mile radius of Ground Zero in acknowledgment of the area directly impacted by 9/11.

When I visited Lower Manhattan last week I was surprised to see how much progress had already been made. The oak trees are already in place and the framework for bronze panels surrounding the memorial falls is rapidly taking shape. Elsewhere on the site construction is well underway for two high-rise towers, the first of eight new buildings and a new soaring transportation hub terminal.

By far the tallest of these is 1 WTC, formerly known as Freedom Tower. It will ultimately rise to 105 stories and stand 1776 feet high, taller than the North Tower of the original twin towers. Construction is well advanced. The framework has reached 68 stories, while the glass facade installation had reached the 40th floor. Nearby the memorial museum’s external façade is nearing completion. The foreboding, empty hole that once dominated Lower Manhattan is rapidly disappearing.

With the tenth anniversary approaching the recent news of Osama bin Laden’s death was all the more symbolic. As the architect of the most deadly foreign attack on American soil since the War of Independence his death had been long sought. He was ultimately killed on May 1 by a team of elite Navy Seals as I flew over the Pacific en route to San Francisco. This meant that I found myself in America as the media reacted to this cathartic milestone in the nation's history. For the next week every available news channel was inundated with mind-numbing analysis of Osama's life, his clinical death and the men ultimately responsible for his demise.

The saturation coverage bought back some stark memories. I still recall where I was when CNN first crossed live to New York shortly after the first plane struck the North Tower on the morning of September 11. I was sitting in Hong Kong hotel room at the time after returning from dinner with a work colleague. I'd literally switched on the television moments earlier and was settling in for the evening. I distinctly recall watching the second plane fly into the South Tower live on air. Moments before impact I’d noticed its proximity to the tower, its presence seemingly unnoticed by CNN commentators. Within seconds the tower exploded and the rest is history.

A few days later I found myself flying home to Australia on what was to become Ansett Australia’s last flight from Hong Kong. As we flew through the night the airline went bankrupt. As a result, when the aircraft doors were opened in Sydney, the crew was greeted by news that their jobs had disappeared. It wasn’t until I arrived home that it dawned on me how close I’d come to being stranded in Hong Kong with worthless airline ticket. I consider myself privileged to be able to witness so many historic events in such a personal manner. I guess my job, despite its stress, has some unusual perks.

The Grand Bridge Encounter

2011-05-18T21:51:00.060+10:00

Some time ago I was told of a New York bridge which inspired the design of Sydney's iconic Harbour Bridge’s. For years I looked for the bridge each time I was in New York. It took several visits before, by chance, a taxi driver took me across the Triborough Bridge (recently renamed the Robert F Kennedy bridge) linking the boroughs of Bronx and Queens with Manhattan island. The Triborough bridge is a network of three distinct bridges and elevated highways that cross over Ward’s Island. The island that sits in the middle of the East River is nothing particularly noteworthy. However, as you cross the island a perfectly formed, miniature version of the Sydney Harbour bridge comes into view.

This is the Hell Gate rail bridge which opened in September 1916 to carry a rail link from New York’s Central Station into the nearby New England states. Its stunning steel arch structure spans the East River for 310 metres, approached from both directions by a series of imposing elevated trusses. It was built to carry four rail tracks, two for passenger rail and two for freight. Only three of these tracks remain in use today. Pedestrian use is no available anywhere on the bridge or its approaches.

The bridge’s design and construction were the brainchild of Gustav Lindenthal. Originally from the Czech Republic, he immigrated to the United States in 1874. His career as a civil engineer was soon boosted by demand for bridges able to handle the growing weight of American locomotives and their loads. John Bradfield, the man responsible for the Sydney Harbour Bridge, faced a similar challenge. By chance he came across the Hell Gate Bridge during a visit to New York in 1921.

Bradfield’s final design for Sydney, including its accompanying truss approaches, is almost identical to that of the Hell Gate Bridge. However Sydney’s iconic landmark spans 503 metres, carrying two footpaths, two rail tracks and eight road lanes across open water. When I finally saw Hell Gate Bridge up close last weekend the inspiration for Sydney’s bridge was all too clear. I almost felt at home.

Getting up close to Hell Gate Bridge provided more challenging than I’d anticipated. Pedestrian access to Ward’s Island is normally provided by a footbridge crossing from Manhattan Island, located at the eastern end of 103rd Street. However, I discovered that the bridge was closed for refurbishment, despite checking several websites the night before to ensure it was open and in use. As a result, I had to return to the subway and take the train north to 125th Street to use a footbridge on Triborough Bridge.

This unforeseen detour added at least another two kilometres to my planned walking route. In the end walked from Manhatten, around the base of Ward’s Island to the foot of Hell Gate Bridge before rejoining the footpath on the Triborough Bridge crossing into Queens. My final route covered more than eight kilometres, but offered some stunning views of upper Manhattan and the picturesque East River. The immediate area is home to at least half a dozen bridges, inspiring me to call my outing New York’s Grand Bridge encounter.

Over several hours I walked across two of the three bridges that make up the Triborough Bridge, viewed the Ward's Island footbridge from both sides of the river, photographed the Queensboro Bridge futher downstream and stood at the foot of Hell Gate Bridge. Along the way I also used a pedestrian bridge that crossed a tidal swamp between Randall's Island and Ward's Island; and caught sight of at least two additional bridges that cross from Randall's Island into the Bronx. Those who know me well know I'm an avid fan of civil engineering works. Therefore, as you can imagine, with so many bridges to explore I was as happy as pig in poo all afternoon!

America's greatest sporting rivalry

2011-05-14T22:37:00.005+10:00

One of the greatest rivalries in American baseball is that between the New York Yankees and the Boston Red Sox. Its origins lie in the sale of the Red Sox' star player to the Yankees in December 1919; a man who went on to become one of baseball’s record breaking legends. That man was Babe Ruth. He played just six seasons with the Red Sox before joining the Yankees. At the time of his transfer he’d just broken the single-season home run record, hitting 29 home runs, while Red Six had won baseball's World Series the previous year.

Babe Ruth's departure hit the Red Sox hard. For the next two decades the team struggled to break away from a soul-destroying losing streak. In fact, it wasn’t until 2004, and again in 2007, that the team successfully won a World Series. Contrast this result with that of the Yankees. The team has won 27 World Series, most recently in 2009, making it the most successful team in American baseball history.

Last night I was lucky enough to see both teams in action at Yankee Stadium. I couldn’t have picked a better date to see my first live baseball game. The weather was relatively warm and still. My host had bought tickets that looked out over home base and the entire stadium. In fact, from the moment we caught the subway from Manhattan to the Bronx-based stadium, the entire experience was straight out of Hollywood.

The atmosphere in the stadium was electric. More than 48,000 people had poured into the recently rebuilt Yankee Stadium to watch the Red Sox defeat the Yankees by one run. Overhead a classic advertising blimp circled the field. This was once the Goodyear blimp. However these days it’s sponsored by Direct TV, a satellite cable network. Just like in the movies, vendors wandered around the grounds offering peanuts, beer and hotdogs. Naturally I ordered a couple of beers and a dog. Delicous.

Perhaps the most memorable aspect of the evening were the numerous rituals that make up American baseball. These include the crowd rushing to catch and keep each home run ball, a mid-field dance by ground staff grooming the dirt diamond between innings and an ever present giant scoreboard touting head spinning graphics and endless baseball statistics. I now know that the Red Sox’ fastest pitcher can throw a ball at more than 100 miles per hour. Who knew!

Three hours in Canada

2011-05-11T21:15:00.003+10:00

The mighty Niagara Falls straddles the border between Canada and the United States. The Falls consist of three separate water courses; the Horseshoe Falls, the American Falls and the Bridal veil Falls. During late-Spring more than 2,800 m3 of water per second plunges into the Niagara Gorge; with almost 90% of this volume passing over the Horseshoe Falls alone. As a result, the Horseshoe Falls are by far the largest and highest of the three falls. Here the Niagara River plunges more than 53 metres; spread along a 760 metre crescent-shaped span; the centre of which marks the international border.

I first visited the falls in November 1983. I still vividly recall the awesome sight of the Horseshoe Falls seen from the edge of the Canadian shore. Incredibly, an observation deck sits barely a metre from falls dramatic edge. Here you can clearly see the aqua green water flowing by, almost within touching distance. I was thrilled to discover last weekend that the same spot was still accessible to visitors. I can report that the humbling sense of awe you experience hasn’t dimmed in 28 years.

Equally enthralling is the dramatic cruise to the spray-drenched base of the Horseshoe Falls on the deck of a Maid of Mist boat. A 20-minute boat ride up the Niagara Gorge takes you past the boulder-strewn foot of the American Falls and on into the spray clouds that envelope the might Horseshoe Falls. It’s almost impossible to describe the sensation of looking up through the mist as an encircling crest of white water, high above your head, plunges into the abyss. Equally memorable is the moment of confusion you experience as rain suddenly seems to fall from the clear blue sky above. This is the moment the boat crosses into the shadow of the mist cloud rising perpetually above the Falls. Awesome!

On Sunday we started our tour of Falls from the American side; starting with a Maid of the Mist tour which departs from the base of the American Falls. We then crossed the 290-metre wide Rainbow Bridge into Canada to view the same Falls from the gorge’s opposite side. The international boundary can be identified by Canadian and American flags flying from the centre of the bridge. While in Canada, we stopped for a buffet lunch in the Sheraton Hotel. The restaurant was located a stunning 13 floors above the surrounding area. As you’d image, the view is simply spectacular.

After lunch I walked more than a kilometre along the gorge’s crest to the edge of the Horseshoe Falls before it was time to cross back to the United States. Both crossings of the border were faster than normal. Our tour guide attributed the light traffic to people staying home to celebrate Mother’s Day. The speed of our crossing gave us time to take a detour down the gorge to observe the Whirlpool. Here the Niagara River flows into a natural caldera whose curve sends the river swirling in a large arc that eventually crosses its original path. The result is a series of spectacular whirlpools and vortexes. Above the swirling waters a lone red cable car crosses the chasm. Our guide explained that passengers avoid crossing the border by taking the ride in both directions and thus never disembark.

Our day tour finished with a visit to Goat Island which separates the American Falls from the Horseshoe Falls. This was a real highlight for me. I never saw the falls from this vantage point in 1983. Here you can stand on the edge of the American Falls and watch an impossibly large volume of water pour into the gorge below. It’s almost as stunning as the Canadian Horseshoe Falls observation deck. I stood there for almost ten minutes trying to comprehend why anyone would intentionally want to take the plunge. To date, at least 15 people have done so. The first was Annie Edson Taylor, a 63-year-old Michigan school teacher. She went over the falls in barrel.

Niagara Falls

2011-05-10T00:14:00.005+10:00

Wow! I've just had the most amazing day. Almost 28 years after my last visit I've returned to Niagara Falls. I booked a day trip from New York. The ticket included an airport pick-up from my mid-town hotel, flights to and from upstate New York, a six hour mini-bus tour around the American and Canadian falls and a buffet lunch at the Sheraton hotel located 13 floors above the Falls.

I couldn't have chosen a better day to go. Today is Mother's Day in the USA. As a result the crowds were relatively light, there were no queues at airport security, our flight landed ahead of schedule and the Canadian border crossing was swift in both directions. Even better, the weather was warm and sunny with picture-perfect blue skies all day.

In fact things were so slow today I even secured a helicopter flight over the falls for a 40% discount (It cost US$50 instead of the regular US$85 for a flight lasting roughly 15 minutes). Our guide also noted that our group of 15 was smaller than usual. Most weekends he takes up to 50 people on the tour.

With such a small group in tow our guide was able to schedule more activities today than usual. Our tour ultimately included a Maid of the Mist boat tour through Niagara Gorge to the base of the falls; a walk along the Canadian cliff tops to view the Canadian Horseshoe Falls (less than a meter from the edge); a drive along the gorge to the famous whirlpool gully and a leisurely walk on Goat Island where the American falls can be seen plunging over the cliff right at your feet. When I came here in 1983 as an exchange student we didn't have enough time to visit Goat Island so today's trip included at least one new memory.

Here's a few quick photos to wet your appetite until I'm able to download everything from my camera. Enjoy.

Royal wedding fever

2011-04-29T23:55:00.005+10:00

Garry and I have been taking a trip down memory lane this evening as the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton is broadcast live around the world. The pair exchanged their vows before 1900 guests in Westminster Abbey - and a global television audience of two billion people - while another million people waited patiently on the streets of central London. Four out of five free-to-air channels in Australia broadcast the ceremony live; with at least four cable channel also providing live coverage.

So much of what we're seeing brings back personal memories. Where do I start? For example, we recall the spectacle of the Royal Guard marching down The Mall during the Trooping of the Colour; and waving at the Queen as she rode by in an open carriage. I also recall the colourful Union Jack bunting hung down the Mall every Spring and the sound of Westminster Abbey's stunning acoustics as the choir practised for an evening service.

However, perhaps our strongest memories are those from one sunny Sunday afternoon last September. Literally days before Garry's appendix suddenly burst we toured the spectacular State Rooms inside Buckingham Palace. It's hard to believe those same grand rooms are now hosting a lavish wedding reception. While television cameras aren't permitted inside, so vivid are the memories of our tour, I can honestly picture the scene that's probably unfolding as I type this post. London really was our home for the last five years.

UPDATE: May 2, 2011

This fascinating royal wedding factiod was published by the BBC today:

The National Grid said its figures showed a huge surge in demand for power after the service - equivalent to one million kettles being boiled - when the royal couple returned to Buckingham Palace. Over the course of the day power use rose and fell during key moments - with the biggest drop in demand when the couple made their balcony appearance and people stopped what they were doing and turned back to their televisions.

I bet a similar surge in domestic water usage also occured after the wedding as well. We're clearly creatures of habit.

Where did our savings go?

2011-04-22T16:10:00.003+10:00

It’s been another remarkable week for the Australian dollar. Yesterday it rose to a new record high against the US dollar, for the third time in as many days. One Australian dollar now buys you US$1.075. Analysts are tipping that the dollar will hit US$1.10 before the year is out. The last time it traded at this level was 1982 before the currency was floated. It’s hard to believe that despite relocating back to Sydney I still live in a country whose currency is worth noticeably more than the US dollar.

While living in London we got rather use to the concept of earning money worth more than the US dollar. However, the Sterling was always a rare breed. In all of our travels the only other currencies trading at similar levels were in the Middle East, reflecting no doubt the power of an oil economy. For example, the Omani Rial is currently buying US$2.60 and the Jordanian Dinar is buying $US1.40. In ten days I fly San Francisco for work so the strong Australian dollar has made some impromptu shopping incredibly tempting.

Of course a strong Australian dollar spells more bad news for the savings we’ve left in the UK. Yesterday one British pound was buying A$1.52 for several hours before closing one cent higher. Incredibly the rate's been worse in recent months. While we were stranded in Antarctica the pound hit a record low of A$1.51 on New Year’s Eve. Regular readers will recall my lament over the plunging value of the pound. When we first arrived in the UK the pound was buying almost a dollar more than today. As a result Garry and I have simply decided to view our UK savings as a long-term currency investment as we wait for the Bank of England to start raising its base rate.

UPDATE: April 29
The Australian dollar climbed to yet another yesterday. It's now buying US$1.095. Most analysts expect it to reach US$1.10 before the end of next week. Some analysts are now predicting the dollar will peak at US$1.15 before the year over. It's hard to believe our dollar is worth 10% more than the US dollar.

UPDATE: May 2
Incredibly, the Australian dollar passed the US$1.10 mark this morning. In less than a month the dollar has appreciated almost ten percent against its American rival.

La Nina is just the beginning

2011-04-20T22:32:00.002+10:00

Autumn is finally upon us. As we head into a five-day Easter weekend (we have an extra day this year comes courtesy of ANZAC day which falls immediately after the regular public holiday) the forecast is for cooler weather and a chance of daily showers most days. Meteorologists say the regular bouts of rain we’ve had in recent months are a direct consequence of the latest La Nina phenomenon spreading across the Pacific. The same weather pattern has been fingered for the severe floods and cyclones Australia's endured this Summer.

I’ve also seen reports that claim Australia’s climate alternates between wet and dry phases every 20 to 30 years. Apparently we’re entering a new extended wet phase. I dread the thought that since migrating to Australia more than two decades ago I’ve enjoyed an unusually dry period that’s come to a screeching halt. Worse still, I could be all but dead by the time the weather starts to warm again.

Meanwhile in London the weather over Easter is forecast to be mainly sunny, with daytime temperatures equal to those in Sydney. In fact, its only the overnight temperatures that seem to be noticably lower. Maybe the weather wasn't so bad in London after all? I've already bought myself an IKEA throw rug to keep warm this winter. Garry and I went to IKEA last weekend to return some surplus bookshelves we'd bought. As so often happens at IKEA, a trip to secure a $30 refund resulted in us walking out $200 poorer.

London life has its moments

2011-04-17T00:29:00.002+10:00

We’ve just experienced the wettest April day in Sydney for more than a decade. It’s a timely reminder that life in Australia wasn’t as perfect as I’d often imagined while living in London. Since our return home people have been asking me if I miss the UK. While it’s true that I don’t miss the grey skies and drab sunlight of London, I do miss a few things. Here's a list of things London really does better:

The extend and variety of online shopping. Australian retailers are well behind the rest of the world.
The underground. Sydney trains are slow to load, always late and still use inflexible paper tickets. I miss my Oyster card. I read today that Sydney's own Oyster card based system won't be in place until 2014.
Low-fat pesto. I never thought I’d miss Sainsbury’s home brand pesto. Sydney supermarkets only offer full fat varieties. However, on the flip side I'm please to have low-fat feta cheese back on the shelf.
Cheap European cars. While we were away Australia’s luxury car tax rose to 35% making an average European vehicle up to 50% more expensive.
More entertainment options. Nothing bets the variety on offer in the West End any night of the week. Sydney definitely has fewer cultural options on the go.

It's done!

2011-04-16T23:20:00.001+10:00

Several weeks ago we order a new console table for the entry lobby in our apartment. After some delay it finally arrived today. The new table has now taken pride of place in its new home. It looks grand. Much to my surprise it's made the entire entrance feel more spacious than it actually is. I can confidentally say this is the final touch planned for our apartment refresh; almost three months to the day since our return to Sydney. There's nothing left now but to enjoy our new surroundings.

Family for dinner

2011-04-11T19:35:00.005+10:00

My parents have dropped into town for a long weekend. After a week of rain they've timed their arrival to coincide with four days of sunshine and Summer temperatures. Garry and I have filled their time with a variety of tourist highlights including lunch at the Fish Markets, an evening at the Sydney Theatre Dance Company, lunch in Manly by the water and a leisurely walk across the harbour bridge.

Their visit was also a great excuse to ensure our apartment refresh was finished in time for their arrival. As a result we successfully entertained both sets of parents on Friday evening with a gala BBQ dinner. We even used our trip to the Fish Market as an excursion to collect fresh seafood for dinner. I even found time before heading to the airport to dash to the florist and buy flowers for our entrance lobby. Our extended family dinner was a roaring success and everyone praised our refresh efforts, including Garry's garden lighting.

Lunch at Manly on Sunday was spectacular. We dined at Hugo's on the ferry wharf. The restaurant gave us the best table in the house right on the waterfront with uninterrupted harbour views. We also squeezed in a quick wander to the beach before heading home on the ferry. The timing of our departure proved fortuitous as rain began falling as we docked at Circular Quay. This was the only respite in the otherwise perfect weather during my parents entire visit.

Today we caught the train to Milson's Point and walked across the Harbour Bridge soaking up blue skies and sunshine. A light lunch at The Rocks and a stroll around the bay to the Opera House completed our excursion. As always the views in every direction was simply stunning, reminding me yet again how pleased I am to be back in Australia.

Back in the air

2011-04-08T20:16:00.030+10:00

After almost three months on the ground my travel schedule has begun filling once again. I'll be off for three weeks in May on business visiting San Francisco, New York and Hong Kong. In June Garry and I are off to Melbourne for a long weekend break. We cashed in some frequent flyers points, securing return tickets for less than $22 each. In July I'll be off to London for at least a week for work. Then finally, Garry and I head off in September for a two-week road trip through New Mexico and Arizona experiencing the original Wild West. We're taking advantage of the new Qantas route direct to Dallas for this vacation which will be something of an adventure in itself.

A few more holiday photos

2011-04-06T18:12:00.002+10:00

I recently updated some of the holiday posts I made in January. These now include photos and a few additional links. I've yet to do the same with posts covering our Antarctic cruise but will let you know when this happens. Enjoy the photos!

Windows to die for

2011-04-04T07:39:00.003+10:00

Our new blinds have been installed. They look spectacular. Here's just a couple of quick photos; taken with an overcast sky behind them. They make the apartment look like a million dollars. Their installation marks the conclusion of a comprehensive refresh we've undertaken since returning to Sydney. It's taken two months but I finally feel like we're home.

The outdoor room

2011-04-01T21:58:00.008+11:00

Ta da! Here it is. The new outdoor room. Our new dining suite, mega-man BBQ and lounge suite have safely arrived. We think they look grand. In fact the entire set-up looks better I expected and everything seems to fit comfortably on our main balcony. Hopefully you're able to get a sense of the layout and the open space around it. We're looking forward to entertaining our international visitors next weekend. Pray that the weather will also play its part.

Come back soon for photos of the new window blinds currently scheduled to be installed on Sunday.

The first look

2011-03-31T17:37:00.004+11:00

The new outdoor lounge suite has arrived. Here's a quick photo to wet your appetite. Our next challenge is to work out how we fit it all on our balcony! More pictures and details shortly.

It's here!

2011-03-31T00:13:00.005+11:00

Our final apartment refresh purchases are about to arrive. Over the last couple of days we’ve been contacted by the company manufacturing our new window blinds and the retailer supplying our new outdoor lounge suite. Both suppliers are delivering their wares a week ahead of schedule. The suite arrives tomorrow while our blinds will be installed on Sunday. We’re thrilled that everything will be in place before my parents visit in ten days time. They’re in town for a long weekend to see the fruits of our labour (and see for themselves how boldly we’ve burned a hole in our wallets). Stay tuned for more images. For now I’ll leave you with a wonderful rainbow over the SCG and a look at our refurbished home office balcony.

The prodigal Saab comes home

2011-03-24T21:29:00.006+11:00

We've completed the final step in relocating back to Australia. This week we collected the Saab from Quarantine & Customs and registered it once again for Australian ownership. It been quite an experience getting the car home. The endless paperwork and delays have almost driven poor Garry to distraction.

At one point we even had the receiving agent in Sydney call us and ask us what we'd done with the car keys. Garry rather curtly pointed out that their UK partner had collected the car from our London home and thus we weren't in possession of the keys. Other stressful highlights include paperwork disappearing between our UK relocation agent and its Australian partner, being pursued by bailiffs after the UK agent incurred a London congestion charge penalty and finally being ordered to pay for steam-cleaning by Quarantine before our car could be released.

The congestion charge penalty was particularly galling. The removal company arranged for a car transporting company to collect the Saab directly from Swiss Cottage. The driver then drove through the London Congestion Zone without our permission, incurred a transit fee and failed to pay it. It took several months for the resulting penalty notice to finally reach us by which time the penalty had trebled and then been refered to the County Court for collection. Fortunately the Uk agent accepted liability, but did do only after we chased them and spoke with the local authorities.

Sadly the car arrived in Australia with a few more dents than when we'd last seen it. In particular the roof has a large dimple where something was obviously dropped. The relocation company had to build an wooden frame over the car to fit all of our house contents into a shipping container which clearly increased the risk of damage. Perhaps the most galling aspect of this particular incident is the simple fact that the removalists in London were rather inefficient with their packing, ultimately forcing us to pay for an "overcase" frame.

For example, when we originally relocated to London the Australian removalist carefully packed cushions and other loose items under the legs of dining chairs to save space. It also wrapped our glassware in protective cardboard tubes, allowing more to be packed into every shipping box. By comparison, the UK agents packed our glassware loosely and on occasions packed nothing more than a toilet bruch and dush pan in a large box. I'm convinced these lax packing practices added at least another ten boxes to our load.

We've chalked up the entire relocation experience as yet another examples of the shoddy service we constantly encountered in Europe. I'm glad to be back in Australia where the service is already more attentive and efficient.

Just like the catalogue

2011-03-22T21:03:00.006+11:00

Our new outdoor dining suite has arrived. Ironically it was delivered on a day of heavy rainfall, giving its durability an immediate test. As I noted in my last post, our table was floor stock used for photos in Harbour Outdoor's new season catalogue. The catalogue went on online today. You can see our furniture in catalogue photograph above. The store even gave us the bowls that appear in this image. Below is the same table at home on our own balcony.

Below are the chairs that came with our suite. The first photo comes from the catalogue, the second was taken on our balcony. Perhaps we'll publish our own catalogue? We love our new dining suite!

Some finishing touches

2011-03-19T22:59:00.007+11:00

Our apartment refresh reached another milestone this week. After week of searching and driving all over Sydney we’ve found the perfect outdoor furniture for our main balcony. Even better, we took advantage of the end-of-Summer sales, and saved thousands. Our shopping spree has netted us an outdoor dining suite, an outdoor lounge suite and enormous BBQ. With luck it’ll be delivered by early-April.

Our dining suite was floor stock used to shoot photographs for next season’s catalogue. It’s delivered next week. We’ve been promised a catalogue when it comes back from the printer. However, you can see last season’s range in white, above. Our table is the same style but has a light tan frame with charcoal coloured slats. The chairs also have a tan frame with white fabric. We’ve bought the six-seat version. To give us additional seating capacity we’ve also ordered a smaller two-seat version. It will live on our bedroom balcony and move any time we need additional table space on the main balcony.

The lounge suite we’ve bought looks identical to the one you see above. The cushions are covered in the same chocolate brown tone but we’ve bought a sofa, two armchairs and a coffee table that doubles as a sun lounger. It was marked down 25% but we managed to get delivery and scatter cushions thrown in for free. We’ve been promised delivery by April 7. The frame is constructed from artificial wicker and aluminum so it should survive life on our balcony without problems.

The new BBQ is Garry’s pride and joy. It was floor stock and the last in the store. We got it for a bargain and talked the store into throwing in a filled gas cylinder. Garry then decided we could save the delivery charge if we partially dissembled it and carefully fitted the pieces into our tiny rental car. After several attempts we finally managed to squeeze it into the car with millimeters to spare. I still marvel at this feat as it has to be the largest BBQ I’ve never set eyes on. Needless to say Garry’s fired it up at least twice since we got it home.

Finally, inside the apartment I’ve been spending my evenings working on the new staircase joinery in our entrance lobby. Unfortunately the custom woodwork I ordered was poorly installed. I arrived home one evening to a scene that almost made my blood boil; two immaculately crafted joinery pieces had been literally butchered by crude saw cuts and other unsightly flaws. Repairing the damage involved a ten-day remedial project. I meticulously prepared paper templates, cut and glued new sections and finally painted the entire ensemble. The result is now much like the image I’d been carrying in my head.

I almost forgot to add that we've successfully secured the services of a cleaner. Incredibly the cleaning lady we had five years ago was still available. She'd even kept the same mobile phone number. Juilet was thrilled to hear from us and immediately made herself available to clean and iron once a week. She's easily the most efficient, thorough cleaner I've witnessed. Life in Australia is definitely falling back into the same familiar rhythm.

Hello Saab

2011-03-18T23:39:00.005+11:00

We heard today that our Saab has finally been released by Australian Quarantine. However, we were forced to pay for a comprehensive steam clean before they'd sign-off the paperwork. Garry's now making plans to collect it from the warehouse next Tuesday. With luck it'll be back in our garage by next weekend.

I've also found just the car I'd love to get as a second city run around. It's the Peugeot RCZ coupe. You can see a photo of it above. I've been told its the poor man's Audi TT; a car I'd been fantasizing about until now. I think I've found a huge incentive to save hard for the next year or so!

Another big one hits the Pacific Rim

2011-03-11T22:24:00.015+11:00

Northern Japan has been devastated by a massive earthquake today, the nation's largest for more than 150 years. The powerful tremor registered an astonishing 8.9 magnitude, shaking much of Honshu for almost two minutes. Its epicenter occured 382km northeast of Tokyo, approximately 100 kilometres offshore from the coastal city of Sendai. According to US Geological Survey data, the strength of this quake makes it the seventh largest in recorded history. I'm relieved to report that staff from my company's Tokyo office and its local clients are all safe. However, everyone is now stranded as the city's entire subway and train system has shut down.

The unfolding disaster also has a personal connection. On my last trip to Japan I caught a shinkansen train to Sendai for a weekend excursion. My day trip included time on the water in picturesque Matsushima Bay, roughly 30 kilometres north of the city (that's the photo opening this post, along with one above that I snapped of ubiquitous tsunami evacuation signs you see everywhere in the town). This entire coast has now been devastated by a destructive tsunami. We've been watching dramatic television footage of a giant ten-metre wave sweeping across farmland and the Sendai airport. As I type news reports are reporting that a ship with more than 100 passengers was swept away by the tsunami. We're bracing for a terrible death toll as the news fog clears in the days ahead.

Earlier this evening my mother called from New Zealand some what concerned. The nation's automatic tsunami warning system had been triggered by the quake so coastal towns began receiving alerts. This meant that emergency broadcast messages interrupted television broadcasts and internet services where my parents live. They live less than 500 metres from the beach on New Zealand's Pacific coast (that's the photo below). As my mother noted, its a little unnerving when your television tells you without warning to flee for higher ground. The alerts were soon lifted.

UPDATE: March 16
I found the following story about the tsunami's impact in Matsushima. It seems that the bay's chain of limestone islands saved the tourist town from the worst. The town central is flooded, the boat wharf I once disembarked from has partially collapsed and many waterfront homes are damaged. However the story is very different a few kilometres up the coast where thousands are missing and entire towns have been literally wiped off the map.

The big reveal

2011-03-11T21:48:00.003+11:00

It’s done! Our relocation back to Sydney is complete. We’re about to unpack the last box. After more than a month of painting, repairing and unpacking our apartment finally feels like home again. We’ve reached a point where Garry’s been filling his day finishing minor handyman jobs rather than painting ceilings and finding new homes for the contents in dozens of boxes.

Here in all its glory are a few photos of our almost normal home. You’ll see the new carpet adoring our internal staircase, the new feature wall and the painstakingly assembled TV bed. You’ll also see the joinery that went in yesterday at the base of the stairs (yet to receive a coat of paint) and the bookcase wall I’ve assembled in the spare bedroom. Our new blinds have yet to arrive and we’re still searching for the perfect outdoor dining suite. I hope you’ll agree it’s all starting to come together. Home sweet home.

250 boxes are on their way

2011-03-02T18:21:00.005+11:00

We heard yesterday that Customs and Quarintine have inspected and released our household effects without incident. Tomorrow the removal company will finally deliver our worldly goods to the apartment. No doubt the next couple of days will fly by in blur of cardboard and bubble wrap. We had more than 250 separate boxes and furniture items removed from the house in London. Three months later I can barely remember half of what was packed. Stay tuned for an update on this final phase of our relocation.

Customs confirmation

2011-02-23T23:41:00.005+11:00

We've heard today that Customs will be inspecting our household contents this Saturday or Monday next week. Assuming there are no complications we're hope to have it delivered to our apartment by the middle of the week.

Our refresh continues apace. Garry finished painting all of the doors on the top floor of our apartment today. He's only got the kitchen ceiling and staircase balustrade to do and the entire place will have been completely. We could have a complete home within seven days.

On less positive note, we've discovered that the driver who collected our car for shipment to Australia drove through London's congestion charging zone and never paid the standard fee for doing so. As a result, while we were travelling back to Australia a penalty notice was sent to our former address, followed by a further fine when we failed to respond to this notice.

It seems that the matter has been handed to the county court and baliffs are now involved. We're understandably furious that this happened and are waiting for our removal company to resolve the matter. The entire incident has left us wondering if our UK credit record has now been trashed.