Tuesday, January 17, 2023
18 years in the making
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8:49 pm
Sunday, January 08, 2023
Salmon surprise
Our road trip to Lake Tekapo was filled with a few unexpected highlights. We took a detour along the lake’s southern shore to view its waters cascading from a hydro control outlet into a man-made canal filled with schools of large, fat salmon. This unexpected pescatarian wonderland had us spellbound and fondly recalling memories of our Alaskan cruise more than a decade ago.
Our final day was spent driving back to Christchurch, stopping briefly in town to explore the city’s rapidly rejuvenating CBD. We also found time to check out the rebuilding of its iconic cathedral. A final shout-out to Christchurch Airport. We loved its eclectic array of outdoor entertainment.
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9:57 pm
Thursday, January 05, 2023
The big reveal
After two days of patiently waiting, this evening during dinner we were briefly blessed with a truly stunning view of Aoraki's summit. Enjoy!
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9:04 pm
Lavender memories
The following morning, we made our way north toward Mount Cook. Our first stop was Puzzling World, a quirky attraction on the outskirts of Wanaka. Here we spent an hour or so experiencing all manner of mind-bending illusions including a sloping house that made you appear to walk its rooms with a rather unconventional lean. Garry and I then finished the morning at a nearby Lavender Farm. It was quite something wandering through iridescent fields of flowers.
Our final stop for the day was another memorable highlight. We briefly pulled into a scenic lookout on the shores of Lake Pukaki before making our way to the Hermitage Hotel. I've always wanted to visit this iconic venue, located in the shadow of Mount Cook, New Zealand's highest mountain. Today, I've finally realised another one of my childhood dreams.
This evening, the summit of Aoraki, as Mt Cook is also known, is shrouded in heavy clouds. We may not get to see it in all of its glory. The forecast for the next couple of days isn't promising, Rain is predicted tomorrow and the day after. Click on the panorama below to experience the view from our hotel room balcony. It's pretty awesome!
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5:00 pm
Tuesday, January 03, 2023
Doubtful Sound
If you ask me, one fjord is never enough. Today we visited Doubtful Sound. Our guided tour was a marathon seven-hour expedition involving two boats and two buses. We ventured across Lake Manapouri and over the Wilmot Pass before finally sailing deep into New Zealand’s remote southwestern coast. Sadly, after stunning blue skies at Milford Sound, today's weather was mainly overcast. However, despite the weather, we thoroughly enjoyed today's outing.
Doubtful Sound was a wonderful contrast to the tourist-driven glamour of Milford Sound. This sound, for the most part, is broader and framed by less dramatic mountains than its famous counterpart. However, the tour we took still managed to take us on a scenic, and leisurely, circuit passing all of Doubtful Sound's most memorable highlights.
Our cruise included a full circuit around Bauza Island which saw us briefly venture out into the Tasman Sea. Here we witnessed seals lounging and frolicking on and around the Shelter Islands and the barren rocks of the Nee Islets. The Tasman was surprisingly calm with a gently rolling swell. Our skipper remarked how lucky we were as the boat doesn't often venture out as far as the Nee Islets.
Today's entire journey was made possible by the construction of this power station. The road we followed into Deep Cove was originally built to provide access to outlets for the station's tailrace tunnels. These tunnels channel water from Lake Manapouri through seven enormous underground generators and then discharge it into Doubtful Sound.
Tomorrow we'll start our journey back towards Christchurch. Our itinerary includes overnight stops in Wanaka, Mt Cook, and Lake Tekapo. Stay tuned for more stunning photos.
Doubtful Sound was a wonderful contrast to the tourist-driven glamour of Milford Sound. This sound, for the most part, is broader and framed by less dramatic mountains than its famous counterpart. However, the tour we took still managed to take us on a scenic, and leisurely, circuit passing all of Doubtful Sound's most memorable highlights.
We then returned to the safety of the sound where we took a breathtaking detour into Doubtful Sound’s iconic Crooked Arm. At this point, the sun kindly played its part. It briefly broke through the clouds as we sailed past the Crooked Arm's picturesque valleys. That's the image you see directly above.
In fact, the entire journey was punctuated by moments like this where the scenery suddenly shifted gear from mundane to iconic. For example, the far reaches of Lake Manapouri's West Arm were impressive after crossing open water for much of our first boat ride. It was here we transferred onto our first bus of the day. Then, as we passed over the summit of Wilmot Pass, we were greeted by a classic view of Doubtful Sound stretching into the distance. Likewise, Deep Cove, where we boarded our second boat, proved another postcard-perfect location.
Sadly, we didn’t get to tour the impressive Manapouri Power Station as it’s currently undergoing major refurbishment. However, a small visitor's centre at West Arm gave us a good feel for this impressive complex. Its exhibits included a detailed 3D model of the underground power station's hidden reaches. Then, just outside, we could see its dramatic penstock intake and transmission substation. The grounds also had one of the station's original turbines on display. These were replaced by more efficient units that increased their output in 2002.
Today's entire journey was made possible by the construction of this power station. The road we followed into Deep Cove was originally built to provide access to outlets for the station's tailrace tunnels. These tunnels channel water from Lake Manapouri through seven enormous underground generators and then discharge it into Doubtful Sound.
I was disappointed that we didn't get to see the outlets up close. It would've been nice to bookend the tour with the penstocks at one end and the tailrace outlets at the other. Instead, we were teased by a battered road sign pointing to a side road as our bus drove by.
Tomorrow we'll start our journey back towards Christchurch. Our itinerary includes overnight stops in Wanaka, Mt Cook, and Lake Tekapo. Stay tuned for more stunning photos.
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8:42 pm
Monday, January 02, 2023
Takahe teaser
Garry and I enjoyed a rare conservationist’s treat. We were lucky enough to see a family of endangered Takahē in active grazing mode at the Te Anau Bird Sanctuary earlier today.
As recently as 1983 only 118 of these large and chunky flightless birds remained. Today more than 440 are alive and thriving thanks to a concerted breeding program over many decades.
The Takahē was hunted extensively by Māori but were not named and described by Europeans until 1847, and then only from fossil bones. By 1898 the species was presumed extinct. However, fifty years later, after a carefully planned search, the South Island takahē was dramatically rediscovered in 1948 by Geoffrey Orbell in an isolated valley in the South Island's Murchison Mountains.
As recently as 1983 only 118 of these large and chunky flightless birds remained. Today more than 440 are alive and thriving thanks to a concerted breeding program over many decades.
The Takahē was hunted extensively by Māori but were not named and described by Europeans until 1847, and then only from fossil bones. By 1898 the species was presumed extinct. However, fifty years later, after a carefully planned search, the South Island takahē was dramatically rediscovered in 1948 by Geoffrey Orbell in an isolated valley in the South Island's Murchison Mountains.
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10:01 pm
Sutherland Falls
Sutherland Fall is fed by Lake Quill, a tarn that sits in a stunning rocky amphitheater more than 979 metres (3,212 ft) above sea level. Year-round the lake’s snowmelt flows over a narrow granite rim and cascades more than 580 metres (1,904 ft), in three dramatic tiers, into the verdant Arthur Valley below.
I'll let the photo I've posted tell the rest of the story! (And don't miss the video below).
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9:37 pm
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