Red, green and gold

In October 1983, the Caribbean island of Grenada was invaded by the United States. This military action deposed a Marxist–Leninist government established four years earlier in a bloodless coup. The USA had become increasingly concerned about the nation’s close ties with Cuba, Nicaragua, and other communist bloc countries. Cold War tensions were rising at the time. Months earlier, Ronald Regan had publicly declared the Soviet Union an evil empire, and the Soviets had shot down a Korean airliner over the Sea of Japan.

The invasion marked the first time I recall ever hearing of Grenada. Yesterday, Garry and I visited this island nation as part of our Caribbean cruise. It proved to be another memorable and picturesque port. Our boat docked at St George’s, the nation’s capital, shortly before 9:00am. Once again, the forecast was for warm, humid, and sunny conditions, with a high of 26°C and a low of 25°C.

The island's surprisingly moderate climate gives rise to its reputation as the "Island of Spice. Stable tropical temperatures ensure the success of spice production, its primary export. Nutmeg is a key crop, followed by spices such as cocoa, mace, cloves, vanilla, cinnamon and ginger. Our cruise notes claim its the world's second-largest producer of nutmeg.

After breakfast, we joined a morning tour of the Clarke’s Court Distillery to learn the secrets of making great Caribbean rum. It was also our first formal visit to a Caribbean distillery. Interestingly, we learned that it no longer makes rum from locally grown sugar cane. Instead, the distillery imports molasses from other islands, mainly Barbados. We learned that most distilleries in the Caribbean now use imported rum. Apparently, in the absence of slave labour, sugar cane growing is an expensive exercise that generates relatively poor margins.

Our tour took us through the distillery’s old sugar cane mill. The equipment used for crushing cane and extracting its juice is still maintained in working condition. Once every few months, the ageing machinery is started, greased and left to run for a while. The crusher's massive cog wheels and rotating cylinders are certainly impressive (but weren’t in action during our visit).

Our tour guide then took us up a steep metal staircase to the distillery’s mezzanine level, where it still makes rum. Large, heated vats boil down molasses and prepare it for fermentation. Likewise, several impressive stainless steel distillation plants continue to extract the precious liquor from the fermented product.

As part of the tour, we indulged in a rum tasting experience. Our guide told us we could sample three rums from 16 different options. However, Garry and I ultimately sampled at least five each. Some were wonderfully smooth and dangerously easy to consume. Others had more heat and left their mark as they went down. I bought a bottle of Sorell-flavoured rum. Sorell is a native red flower that gives the liquor a cranberry-like flavour. Who doesn’t like Cranberry vodka?

Our morning tour finished with an excursion to Morne Rouge Beach, where we enjoyed another dip in the Caribbean, a few complimentary cold beers and some sunbathing. According to Google Maps, we were hosted by the Beach X-scape Bar, a simple, wooden pavilion set back from the beach itself. We then returned to the Silver Shadow for lunch, driving along the capital’s scenic waterfront and through the Sendall Tunnel linking its horseshoe-shaped inner harbour with a cruise terminal on the Caribbean coast.

According to Wikipedia, the harbour is an old volcanic crater. Our cruise notes describe Grenada's capital as literally rolling down the ancient crater's sloping hills to an attractive waterfront decorated by floral-hued buildings, Georgian architecture and idyllic terracotta roofs. It's a very apt description.

Sendall Tunnel is a bit of an eye-opener. It’s a historic 105-metre passageway built in 1894-1895. The tunnel is only wide enough for one-way traffic. However, pedestrians happily pass through it in either direction, dodging traffic by staying close to the side wall as they walk. It’s hair-raising stuff.

After lunch, I decided to return to St George’s for a walk along its picturesque waterfront. My sweaty route included a transit through Sendall Tunnel on the way into town and again upon returning to the boat. Grenada’s Independence Day will be celebrated on 7 February. As a result, the town is currently decked out in the colours of the national flag in preparation for the big day. A flurry of red, green and gold was displayed proudly everywhere I walked. 

I made a complete circuit of the inner harbour from Sendall Tunnel as far as Cooper Hill. I then climbed a steep, grass-covered stairway that took me up to Mitchell Lane, a quiet street which follows a ridgeline overlooking the harbour. I had hoped the elevation would give me some memorable views of the town below, Fort George (an imposing fortification on the opposite side of the harbour) and the surrounding Caribbean coast. I wasn't disappointed. The steamy climb was well worth the effort, as you'll see from the images above and below.

I followed the road back down to Roy St. John Field, a large sports field next to the local container port. Local schools were hosting a sports day on the field. Colourful crowds were cheering on the children, while a hyped-up commentator was delivering a rousing scoreboard update. I then returned to the boat, passing the local fishing fleet, colonial stone-clad buildings and other memorable landmarks.  Delighted to report that I ultimately clocked up 10,384 steps yesterday.

Grenada is the furthest south we’re venturing on this cruise. It’s definitely been one of my favourite islands so far. We've yet to visit three islands, so unless something exceptional crops up, I think it’ll remain a highlight.

Islands of the Saints

Les Saintes, Guadeloupe, is the most scenic, Instagram-friendly port we’ve visited thus far in the Caribbean. If I were a betting man, I doubt we’ll experience anything better. It really was one of a kind. It’s easy to imagine how this heavenly place, a string of nine picturesque islands, earned its name, which translates as “Island of the Saints”. The name was given by Christopher Columbus, who encountered this cluster of islands during his second voyage to the New World in 1493.

Our cruise ship dropped anchor around 7:30 in the most breathtaking location. We sat in a sheltered channel separating the main island of Terre-de-Haut and the smaller uninhabited island of Ilet a Cabrit. In the background sat the archipelago’s only other inhabited island, Terre-de-Bas. The coastline was dotted with beaches, soaring cliffs, and gently sloping hills.

The scene that greeted us at breakfast was straight out of a movie. Terre-de-Haut is dominated by a town with the same name. The postcard-perfect Terre-de-Haut township is filled with white-walled homes, capped by red roofs, that line the shoreline and flow up surrounding hills covered in lush and vibrant greenery. Overlooking the town stands Fort Napoléon des Saintes, an imposing colonial fortification with sturdy stone ramparts and defensive walls. Garry and I naturally dined on the outdoor deck and soaked in the view.

We later learned that an ordinance issued by the town’s mayor a century ago required locals to paint their homes white and red. We were told the mandate wasn’t compulsory. However, any home finished in an alternative colour palette was subject to a special levy. The ordinance was revoked years ago. However, local pride continues to maintain the tradition.

After breakfast, we took a tender to shore and joined a minivan excursion that took us along the harbourfront filled with lovingly restored fishermen’s cottages and up to Fort Napoléon. The fort has a fascinating history. As we’re rapidly learning, like many Caribbean islands, it’s had more than one colonial master over time. From 1759 to 1763, the English took possession of Les Saintes and part of mainland Guadeloupe. The archipelago was returned to France upon the signing of the Treaty of Paris on February 10, 1763. It’s remained an overseas French territory ever since.

 

To ensure its protection, the French built a fort overlooking the township to repel another British invasion. This relatively simple fortification was subsequently rebuilt after the European Seven-Year War ended in 1814. The new structure, what's visible today, featured high surrounding walls and a new powder magazine. These days, the central keep contains an impressive museum. Its exhibits tell the story of the island’s history, its native flora and fauna and the culture of its indigenous and former slave population.

The view from Fort Napoléon’s ramparts was simply stunning. As you can see from the video above, it offers visitors an uninterrupted view of the township, the harbour and the surrounding islands. My photos barely do the scene justice. One unexpected highlight was the blooming barrel cacti in the fort’s succulent garden. Our local guide claims this cactus only blooms every few years. We were lucky to see such impressive specimens. We also spotted several very fat and happy iguanas warming themselves in the morning sun.

We then returned to the township where our guide took us on a walking tour through the town’s main square and over a low-crested hill to its white-washed cemetery. Here we saw one of the island’s unique rituals. The graves of local fishermen are often framed by large seashells rather than marble slabs.

The group then retraced its steps back into town, where the tour concluded with a visit to the Church of Terre-de-Haut. I loved the shrine to fishermen at the back of the church. It's all too easy to forget that fishing was once the primary industry in these islands before the arrival of the Europeans, and the present-day impact of mass tourism. 

As we sat in the pews, our guide regaled us with a local love story before finally sending us on our way. Much to our surprise, he concluded the tour abruptly after receiving a call advising him that his next group was waiting on the dock. Equally surprising, he didn’t stop to collect a tip on the way out, as is the practice everywhere we go. Americans have ruined travel for the rest of us. Instead, as a retired man, he seemed genuinely keen to just share his local culture. 

Garry and I went shopping for a few souvenirs, including a mandatory shot glass. In the end, we not only bought glassware but also picked up a colourful ceramic gecko and a decorated native wooden drum. Sadly, the gecko is made in China. We finished our time on shore with a wander along the waterfront to a local beach where the locals were gearing up for an influx of day-trippers from the main island of Guadeloupe.

This evening, our ship held a farewell event as half the passengers will be disembarking tomorrow in Phillipsburg. Some time ago, we discovered that the 14-day cruise we’d booked was in fact two seven-day voyages sold under a single combined booking code. I originally booked the cruise because I’d never seen such a comprehensive itinerary, including so many ports, at such a great price. We now know why it was such a rare gem. We heard today that at least 180 passengers, about half of the guests, will continue on the same 14-day itinerary.

The festive farewell event in the Show Lounge included a farewell address from our Italian captain, plus a parade of flag-waving crew from all around the boat. This included some of the engineering team and others working behind the scenes. The Silversea Singers and Dancers then launched into a Motown-themed show.

It's hard to believe we're almost halfway through our cruise. The verdict so far?  We're loving it!