The Caribbean in a nutshell

I've finally completed editing and updating posts about our 14-day cruise through the Caribbean. Follow the links below to relive this incredible once-in-a-lifetime experience.

In case you're curious, here's a link to a post I published about the cabin on our cruise ship, the Silver Shadow, along with a few details about the boat itself.

DATE	PORT	COUNTRY
10 Jan	Flight from New York to Sint Maarten
10 Jan	La Samanna, Philipsburg	Saint Martin
11 Jan	Philipsburg	Sint Maarten
12 Jan	St. John’s	Antigua & Barbuda
13 Jan	Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas	US Virgin Islands
14 Jan	Little Bay	Montserrat
15 Jan	Castries	St. Lucia
16 Jan	Port Elizabeth, Bequia	St Vincent & Grenadines
17 Jan	Les Saintes	Guadeloupe
18 Jan	Philipsburg	Sint Maarten
19 Jan	Cruz Bay, St John	US Virgin Islands
20 Jan	Gustavia	St. Barthelemy
21 Jan	Roseau	Dominica
22 Jan	St George’s	Grenada
23 Jan	Trois Ilets	Martinique
24 Jan	Kingstown	St Vincent & Grenadines
25 Jan	Bridgetown	Barbados
25 Jan	Flight from Barbados to London

You can also use the following links to relive other destinations we visited on our round-the-world ticket.

• NYE at Cooks Beach in New Zealand
• Reliving old memories in New York
• Overnight hell in Frankfurt
• Record snowfall in Nuremberg
• Doing London the way we used to
• Exploring Sentosa Island in Singapore

The tale of two hotels

Our recent trip to New York wasn’t all colourful sights and sounds. During our stay, two hotels unexpectedly made me pause for thought. Each reminded me how precious life is, and how important it is to live each day to the full.

On our first night in town, Garry and I took a short detour to walk past the Casablanca Hotel. Thirteen years ago, I stayed here with Mum and Dad during our whirlwind visit to the Big Apple. The hotel was less than 100 metres from Times Square, making it easier for Dad to take in its dazzling billboards and energetic vibe.

Our detour was well timed. The following day, we paused to remember the anniversary of Dad’s death. Dad loved New York and was delighted he got to tick it off his bucket list, barely three months before he died. Mum was also grateful for the experience. Although she'd have loved to visit a few of the city's museums if we'd had more time. It was sad to reflect that in the intervening years, Mum has also passed away.

On our final night in Manhattan, Garry and I walked past Hotel Edison on our way home from the theatre. I stayed here as an exchange student while on a High School Arts Club trip to New York City in 1983. As students, we attended the ballet at the Lincoln Centre, watched La Cage aux Folles at the Palace Theatre, toured the Met and MOMA, and visited the United Nations.

It was a cathartic moment standing there and reflecting on my life’s journey. The 18-year-old version of me had stood here with his whole life stretching out before him, wondering where life would take him. Now, 42 years later, the 60-year-old version of me was standing here looking back, wondering, “Have I used my time wisely? Would 18-year-old me be proud?”

It’s a humble experience to have a venue like this symbolically bookending my life’s journey. It’s also a timely reminder to make the most of my remaining years. I think I’ve done OK. If I have any doubt, reading through this blog tells a different story.

La Savane des Esclaves

Our Caribbean cruise is rapidly drawing to a close. We’re now into our final three days. It’s been an incredible experience, and the weather has been largely sunny and dry, with an occasional (and normally very brief) rain shower in two or three ports. 

Today’s cruise highlights come from sunny (and humid) Trois-Ilets on the island of Martinique. The island is part of the French West Indies (Antilles) and thus is another one of those French territorial collectivities. Martinique is renowned for the active volcano, Mount Pelée, its most dramatic feature. Pelée erupted in 1792, 1851, and twice in 1902. The eruption of 8 May 1902 destroyed the town of Saint-Pierre and killed 28,000 people in a matter of minutes.

Our ship dropped anchor in the bay opposite Fort-de-France, the capital of Martinique. Garry and I then joined a tour to an open-air museum called La Savane des Esclaves. I was keen to see it after reading about its unusual history. 

The attraction sits in the hills above Trois-Ilets, nestled within lush rainforest and features faithful reconstructions of traditional indigenous and Creole huts. These structures include woven cane walls (excellent cross ventilation in the tropical heat) and a roof often thatched with sugar cane leaves. Slaves on the island were typically housed in these structures for hundreds of years.

Various exhibits around the grounds provide an insight into the daily lives of two distinct populations: the pre-colonial indigenous people and the plantation slaves. We learned about their living arrangements, daily rituals and the impact of the island’s sugar cane industry. The grounds also included examples of local crops, spices and medicinal plants. 

Incredibly, the entire complex is the vision of one man, Gilbert Larose. It was a passion project that kept him busy for decades. He constructed the huts, carved life-sized wooden statues of slaves going about daily life, and landscaped the grounds for more than twenty years. It was a genuinely memorable venue.

Sadly, the guide managing our excursion was the worst we’ve had on the entire cruise. She did an appalling job of directing and controlling the group. More than once she wandered off without explanation leaving us wondering where she’d gone, how long she’d be and what to do us while she was missing in action. 

She then lead us around the grounds of La Savane des Esclaves in such a haphazard manner that Garry and I eventually gave up trying to follow her. With detailed and illustrated explanatory billboards posted everywhere, we decided we’d learn more if we simply peeled away and did our own thing. 

Finally, she inexplicably decided to direct two-thirds of group back to the tour bus half an hour before the agreed departure time. Garry and I followed suit, assuming we were leaving early. Instead, we were left sitting on the bus waiting for the others to return at the original departure time. With limited time in each port, sitting around for no good reason isn't how you want spend it.

Our tour bus dropped us back at Marina de La Pointe du Bout, a small boat harbour sheltered by a narrow headland. Garry and I decided to take a short walk around the local shopping precinct before catching a tender back to our ship. It was a fairly typical resort village with a neatly manicured town square surrounded by faux-colonial buildings. Interestingly, Trois-Ilets' one claim to fame is that it's the birthplace of Joséphine, Napoléon Bonaparte’s first wife. 

That’s country number 85 for me. I’ll clock up one more before we finally depart the Caribbean.

Red, green and gold

In October 1983, the Caribbean island of Grenada was invaded by the United States. This military action deposed a Marxist–Leninist government established four years earlier in a bloodless coup. The USA had become increasingly concerned about the nation’s close ties with Cuba, Nicaragua, and other communist bloc countries. Cold War tensions were rising at the time. Months earlier, Ronald Regan had publicly declared the Soviet Union an evil empire, and the Soviets had shot down a Korean airliner over the Sea of Japan.

The invasion marked the first time I recall ever hearing of Grenada. Yesterday, Garry and I visited this island nation as part of our Caribbean cruise. It proved to be another memorable and picturesque port. Our boat docked at St George’s, the nation’s capital, shortly before 9:00am. Once again, the forecast was for warm, humid, and sunny conditions, with a high of 26°C and a low of 25°C.

The island's surprisingly moderate climate gives rise to its reputation as the "Island of Spice. Stable tropical temperatures ensure the success of spice production, its primary export. Nutmeg is a key crop, followed by spices such as cocoa, mace, cloves, vanilla, cinnamon and ginger. Our cruise notes claim its the world's second-largest producer of nutmeg.

After breakfast, we joined a morning tour of the Clarke’s Court Distillery to learn the secrets of making great Caribbean rum. It was also our first formal visit to a Caribbean distillery. Interestingly, we learned that it no longer makes rum from locally grown sugar cane. Instead, the distillery imports molasses from other islands, mainly Barbados. We learned that most distilleries in the Caribbean now use imported rum. Apparently, in the absence of slave labour, sugar cane growing is an expensive exercise that generates relatively poor margins.

Our tour took us through the distillery’s old sugar cane mill. The equipment used for crushing cane and extracting its juice is still maintained in working condition. Once every few months, the ageing machinery is started, greased and left to run for a while. The crusher's massive cog wheels and rotating cylinders are certainly impressive (but weren’t in action during our visit).

Our tour guide then took us up a steep metal staircase to the distillery’s mezzanine level, where it still makes rum. Large, heated vats boil down molasses and prepare it for fermentation. Likewise, several impressive stainless steel distillation plants continue to extract the precious liquor from the fermented product.

As part of the tour, we indulged in a rum tasting experience. Our guide told us we could sample three rums from 16 different options. However, Garry and I ultimately sampled at least five each. Some were wonderfully smooth and dangerously easy to consume. Others had more heat and left their mark as they went down. I bought a bottle of Sorell-flavoured rum. Sorell is a native red flower that gives the liquor a cranberry-like flavour. Who doesn’t like Cranberry vodka?

Our morning tour finished with an excursion to Morne Rouge Beach, where we enjoyed another dip in the Caribbean, a few complimentary cold beers and some sunbathing. According to Google Maps, we were hosted by the Beach X-scape Bar, a simple, wooden pavilion set back from the beach itself. We then returned to the Silver Shadow for lunch, driving along the capital’s scenic waterfront and through the Sendall Tunnel linking its horseshoe-shaped inner harbour with a cruise terminal on the Caribbean coast.

According to Wikipedia, the harbour is an old volcanic crater. Our cruise notes describe Grenada's capital as literally rolling down the ancient crater's sloping hills to an attractive waterfront decorated by floral-hued buildings, Georgian architecture and idyllic terracotta roofs. It's a very apt description.

Sendall Tunnel is a bit of an eye-opener. It’s a historic 105-metre passageway built in 1894-1895. The tunnel is only wide enough for one-way traffic. However, pedestrians happily pass through it in either direction, dodging traffic by staying close to the side wall as they walk. It’s hair-raising stuff.

After lunch, I decided to return to St George’s for a walk along its picturesque waterfront. My sweaty route included a transit through Sendall Tunnel on the way into town and again upon returning to the boat. Grenada’s Independence Day will be celebrated on 7 February. As a result, the town is currently decked out in the colours of the national flag in preparation for the big day. A flurry of red, green and gold was displayed proudly everywhere I walked. 

I made a complete circuit of the inner harbour from Sendall Tunnel as far as Cooper Hill. I then climbed a steep, grass-covered stairway that took me up to Mitchell Lane, a quiet street which follows a ridgeline overlooking the harbour. I had hoped the elevation would give me some memorable views of the town below, Fort George (an imposing fortification on the opposite side of the harbour) and the surrounding Caribbean coast. I wasn't disappointed. The steamy climb was well worth the effort, as you'll see from the images above and below.

I followed the road back down to Roy St. John Field, a large sports field next to the local container port. Local schools were hosting a sports day on the field. Colourful crowds were cheering on the children, while a hyped-up commentator was delivering a rousing scoreboard update. I then returned to the boat, passing the local fishing fleet, colonial stone-clad buildings and other memorable landmarks.  Delighted to report that I ultimately clocked up 10,384 steps yesterday.

Grenada is the furthest south we’re venturing on this cruise. It’s definitely been one of my favourite islands so far. We've yet to visit three islands, so unless something exceptional crops up, I think it’ll remain a highlight.

You’re soaking in it

Today’s post comes to you courtesy of the Commonwealth of Dominica. This morning, our ship docked at Roseau, the island’s compact capital. Dominica is known for its lush mountainous rainforest, cascading waterfalls and thermal springs. It’s also home to many rare plants, animals, and bird species. It’s often called the "Nature Island of the Caribbean", and as one of the region’s youngest islands, it's still being formed by geological forces.

It’s no surprise to learn that the first European to sight this landmass was Christopher Columbus in 1493. He spotted it on Sunday, 3 November, and so named it Dominica, which is the Latin for Sunday. Spain chose not to settle on the island, leaving it to the French to attempt to settle more than two hundred years later. The island was subsequently ceded to the British under the Treaty of Paris, which ended the Seven-Year War in 1763.

Today’s landside excursion was a real winner. It gave us a terrific sense of the island’s geography and natural beauty. Our day started with an awesome display of nature over breakfast. A brief morning shower delivered a stunning double rainbow over Roseau and the surrounding sea. The town was then lit in a wonderfully photogenic golden glow as the clouds parted.

On land, our tour ticked off four superb locations, starting with a drive through Roseau to the Botanic Gardens. This neatly manicured parkland on the fringes of the central district is filled with all manner of exotic plants. A local guide took us for a walk around some of its more noteworthy highlights.

Perhaps the most intriguing of these is a yellow school bus crushed under a fallen African baobab tree. The tree was toppled by Hurricane David in 1979. It survived its unrooting, and so it’s been left in place. It’s a rather compelling demonstration of nature’s destructive forces.

The Century Palm was equally fascinating. This massive plant grows for up to 80 years, creating a miniature forest of branching fronds. It then flowers once, a massive bloom up to 25 metres high, and dies soon after. I'll leave you to work out how the sausage tree got its name. Finally, I couldn’t get enough of the spritely Bananaquit, a yellow and black hummingbird that relentlessly darted about the trees and bushes.  

Our tour then wound its way up the hills surrounding the town for a commanding view from the Morne Bruce lookout across Roseau and along the coast.  Our ship was easily one of the largest structures in the area, second only to Windsor Park, an enclosed cricket stadium that doubles as a football stadium in winter. Our guide explained that it was funded by Chinese aid. Once again, as we saw in Tonga last year, Chinese soft power is on the rise globally.

Our tour’s next stop took us deep into the rainforest, winding our way up a narrow valley to the spectacular Trafalgar Falls. A 10-minute walk from the car park took us up to a viewing platform with a panoramic view of these twin waterfalls, which plunge about 38 metres and 23 metres respectively. A short path let us walk right up to the base of the larger fall. I took far too many photos of the entire scene. It really was magic.

Our tour then finished with a short drive back down the valley to the tiny township of Wotten Waven. The village has grown up around a series of thermal sulphur-rich springs hidden in the rainforest, which enterprising locals have converted into family-run spas. Our group visited Ti Kwen Glo Cho Spa, which means ‘Little Corner of Hot Water’ in Creole.

The spa offered two murky pools of geothermally heated water, one hotter than the other. Garry and I boldly went for the hottest option. Our guide assured us that the water was stained by leaching iron oxide rather than anything more dubious. If you got overheated, there was a refreshing outdoor shower fed by water from a nearby stream.

We enjoyed a relaxing 30-minute soak before climbing back up the spa buildings for another ubiquitous sample of the local rum. The aromatically spiced punch we were offered was almost like porridge. It was more like someone had blitzed a Christmas cake in a blender with a little rum. I loved it.

After lunch on the boat, Garry and I decided to venture back into town and explore the streets of Roseau. We traced the waterfront as far as the Roseau River, checking out the local markets along the way. I then carried on to Our Lady of Fair Haven Cathedral while Garry returned to the ship. Like so many structures in the Caribbean, the Cathedral was another impressive example of concrete engineering. From the outside, it looked like a stonemason’s dream, but inside, you'll find reinforced concrete walls, pillars and beams.  The roof is a more recent replacement, thanks to Hurricane David.

I continued walking to the State House, the official residence of the President of Dominica. Nearby, I found the aptly named Neg Mawon Emancipation Monument. It pays homage to the African slaves who were brought to Dominica, particularly those who bravely resisted slavery and often paid for it with their lives. It's been toppled at least once by another passing hurricane.

We’re giving Dominica a big tick. It’s not as developed as some of the islands we’ve visited. As a result, its natural beauty takes centre stage. This is what St Lucia, an equally mountainous and rainforest-clad island, should’ve felt like.