Friday, April 13, 2007

Duge tombs and bits of coloured glass


Our second full day in Venice was spent exploring the area surrounding Chiesa dei SS Giovanni E Paolo, followed by a leisurely afternoon on the island of Murano. The first major sight of the day was Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli. This is a simple baroque church whose entire exterior and interior is clad in slabs of heavy-set, coloured marble from floor to ceiling. Everything from the pulpit bible stand to the altar balustrades were also carved from marble. The entire building is topped by a stunning wooden roof. Impressive!

We wandered on towards Chiesa dei SS Giovanni E Paolo. Here many of Venice's many Duge (city rulers) were entombed. Each successor seemed determined to out do his predecessor with an increasingly elaborate tomb. One such monument literally took an entire section of the building stretch from the floor to the rafters soaring way overhead. Other tombs had life-sized horses or bedchambers carved from enormous marble slabs. Equally stunning was the Rosary Chapel whose walls and ceiling were ornately carved and painted by masters such as Veronese.

Completed in 1430, almost 100 years after construction began, it makes for a commanding statement of wealth and power. The building is simply huge. I didn't appreciate just how big it was until we saw it from San Giorgio Maggiore's bell tower located on the opposite side of Venice. Even from this distance it dominates the skyline, standing out as an enormous red brick edifice.


After a hearty Italian coffee, we made our way to the lagoon's edge and caught a vaporetti across to Murano. This idyllic island is home to Venice's glass and crystal industry. It artisans had been effectively banished here in 1291 to reduce the risk of fire posed by the glass-working kilns. Over time Murano glass became an industry standard across Europe, so much so that glass-blowers leaving the city were charged with treason.


Murray and Rhonda spent hours visiting every gallery in search of the perfect souviner. Garry and I simply enjoyed the sun and tranquil canals while his parents vanished through doorway after doorway. Perhaps the most novel highlights of Murano were its giant coloured glass 'Christmas tree' and the simple white lighthouse standing watch over the bustling lagoon.

Our boat ride home gave us an opportunity to enjoy more of Venice's classic scenes including the Ponte di Tre Arche (triple arch bridge) and much of the Grand Canal itself. At times Venice feels like a living work of art.

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