Astoria proved a wonderful addition to our itinerary. It had been a last minute addition literally weeks before our departure. I'm glad we added it to the tour. Astoria sits on the edge of
the Columbia River, 14 miles from where the river meets the Pacific Ocean. It's considered the oldest European settlement
west of the Rockies and was once the USA West Coast fishing industry's main hub.
At its peak the town’s waterfront housed more than a dozen
canneries. Each cannery sealed thousands
of tonnes of salmon annually.
Tuna was also canned here for several years after the salmon catch declined. According to the New York Times, Astoria is responsible for
popularizing the iconic tuna fish sandwich, the staple of every diet-conscious
American’s lunch. Says the NYT, “The town is…to canned tuna what Detroit is to
the automobile.” Astoria's fishing history was very
much in evidence at the Columbia River Maritime Museum nestled on the downtown waterfront.
In fact the museum was an unexpected highlight. Its exhibits are beautifully presented, with
just the right level of detail to capture the essence of every fact and anecdote. We quickly learnt that the bar across
the mouth of the Columbia River is North
America's most treacherous stretch of water. Since 1972, thousands of vessels have been ship-wreaked in the area
earning it the title, “Graveyard of the Pacific. As a result the US Coastguard operates a national training school
on the river's northern shore. They say that if you've mastered the bar here then you've mastered the worst nature will throw at you.
The museum brings home the challenge of crossing the bar in
vivid detail with video footage and first person accounts of dramatic
rescues. However, these exhibits pale in
comparison to the display of a retired lifeboat presented mid-rescue. The full-size vessel is shown teetering
precariously on the near vertical edge of breaking storm wave. The entire scene towers dramatically over
visitors bringing the drama and danger of storm rescue powerfully to life.
On a wooded hill above the town rises a 125 foot pillar, the
Astoria Column. This monument was built
in 1926 to provide visitors with a sweeping view of the entire Columbia River
mouth area. A climb of 164 spiral steps
takes you up to a narrow viewing platform.
However, the effort is worth every breathless moment as the view is
simply stunning.
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