Nara in the Spring

I flew into Kansai Airport on the evening of 6 April. The airport sits on an artificial island in the middle of Osaka Bay, about an hour by train from the central city. By the time I'd made it through immigration, collected my bag, transferred to the train and finally reached the hotel, it was bedtime. 

The following morning, I caught a train to Nara for the day. The forecast was for mainly overcast conditions with the chance of a late passing shower. I'd decided that exploring temples and shrines was a smarter bet in these conditions rather than the more outdoor-oriented Hakone day trip I'd originally scheduled. 

The gamble certainly paid off. I enjoyed mainly dry conditions until a brief, and rather light, shower passed through while exploring Ukimido Pavilion on the southern boundary of Nara Park. The umbrellas you can see in the opening image above captured this short lived shower. I later found a dry spot under a tree and enjoyed a picnic lunch overlooking the pavilion’s cherry blossom-rimmed pond (complete with a curious deer as you can see above).

Nara is Japan’s ancient capital. Established in 710 A.D., it became the nation’s first permanent capital. Prior to that, the capital moved to a new location as a new emperor ascended to the throne. Most of its sights are concentrated around Nara Park, wooded parklands on the modern city’s eastern fringe. 

I spent half a day exploring the park and its surroundings while dodging hundreds of curious deer roaming freely through the grounds. The deer are fearless. Park visitors can purchase dried food pallets to feed them. As a result, you’re continually harassed by animals frisking you for a treat. I bought one of these small packets, set up my camera, activated its timer, and secured myself a memorable selfie.

The park is home to Tōdai-ji temple. Until recently, the temple's main hall, the Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall), held the record as the world's largest wooden building. Interestingly, the present building reconstructed in 1692, is only two-thirds of the original temple hall's size. Inside sits Daibutsu, Tōdai-ji's 15m-high bronze Buddha. It’s an impressive sight.

Off to one side of the hall is a quirky path to enlightenment. One of its massive timber columns has a narrow archway carved through it. Tradition has it that if you can crawl through the gap you’re well on your way to true enlightenment. Sadly, I was far too large to enjoy this niffy shortcut to eternal bliss.

Nearby Shin-Yakushiji Temple was home to another quirky tradition. It's devoted to Yakushi Buddha, the patron of medicine in Japanese Buddhism. Inside the main hall, there are life-size statues of 12 guardian deities, Baraza Wind Gods, surrounding a two-meter-tall statue of a seated Yakushi Buddha. The Yakushi statue is made of wood while the guardians, dating back to 700AD, are made of clay.

The Yakushi Buddha, or Healing Buddha as he's also known, is said to possess healing powers. Visitors seeking good health and healing line up to rub its surface and pray. As a result, years of rubbing have rendered its surface smooth and shiny, while the natural oils from all these hands have stained the timber in a rather eerie way.

 

On the park's east side is the Shinto shrine Kasuga Taisha. This compact complex dates back to 768 A.D. It’s considered Nara’s most sacred shrine as it’s dedicated to a deity responsible for the city's protection. It’s filled with more than 3000 lanterns of all types donated by dedicated worshippers.

While in Japan I discovered that the sakura season isn't the only festive occasion in Spring. My trip also coincided with Ohakamairi, the traditional visit to one's ancestral graves. Every year family members, usually led by the eldest son, visit their family graves in the first two weeks of April. The grave and surrounding area are scrubbed and cleaned and weeds and debris removed. A series of five offerings are then made including flowers, incense, candles, water and food.

The family will often cloak the grave in a red bib. I encountered these bibs everywhere I went including my first day in Nara. This tradition dates back to Japanese folklore which holds that the colour red can expel demons and disease. However, there’s also a deeper, difficult story behind many of the baby bibs you’ll see on statues. Those bibs have likely been placed there by somebody with a child who died very young or is sick. It’s an offering of protective armour to that deity, fighting to protect their child from demons in the spirit world.

Oh yes, one find note. The artist in the opening image is painting the facade of Nara's National Museum.