Wednesday, May 09, 2012

In appreciation of Walter Burley Griffith


For the record; I love Canberra. I don’t care what its detractors say. I think it’s a beautiful city with plenty of exciting potential. I recently rekindled my love affair after taking my brother, Matt, and sister-in-law, Shelley, for a weekend excursion; or as Shelley described it, “a mini-vacation within my vacation”.

Matt and Shelley dropped into Sydney for five days in April. They took advantage of the ANZAC public holiday and extended their visit into the following weekend. Garry and I took our guests on several road trips in between some passionate bouts of shopping.


Garry and I filled their first day in town with a road trip along the south coast. We stopped first at Stanwell Park to admire dramatic sweeping coastal views along the Illawarra Escarpment. The headland is also a popular launching site for local hang-gliding enthusiasts. Unfortunately, when we arrived, there were no hang gliders to be seen. Instead, visitors were pummeled by a harsh, bitterly cold wind.


From here we took our guests along the coast via Lawrence Hargrave Drive and the stunning Sea Cliff bridge. The bridge was opened in 2005, replacing a section of Lawrence Hargrave Drive that was prone to regular rock falls. It winds its way for almost 500 metres along a narrow coastal rock shelf, offering some stunning ocean views. We later stopped for a seafood lunch on the shore of Wollongong’s main harbour. The day trip finished with a leisurely walk to each of the harbour’s two prominent lighthouses.
 
On Saturday morning we rose early and headed south again; this time for Canberra. We’d made plans to base ourselves there for the entire weekend. Month’s earlier I’d booked us into the Canberra Novotel as 40th birthday present for Matt. However, our itinerary was somewhat curtailed when shifting airline schedules moved Matt and Shelley’s return flight from Monday morning to Sunday evening. Naturally we had to stop briefly in Golburn to visit the Big Merino, a 15-metre high Merino ram built from concrete.


My first few months living in Australia, back in 1990, were based in Goulburn. As a result, the city and its tourist gimmick hold some special memories. At the time, the main highway between Melbourne and Sydney was routed through the city centre, making the Big Merino a popular rest break for thousands of weary travelers. 

 In 1992, a freeway by-pass was opened east of the city, leaving the concrete ram isolated on the edge of town. In 2007, in a feat of engineering genius, enterprising locals lifted the beast off its foundations and moved it to its current location by the local freeway interchange. Sadly the view from its eye no longer looks out over farmland; instead you’re greeted by a panorama of warehouse roofs and power lines.


The weather in Canberra was stunning. Our entire weekend was filled with blue skies and warm sunshine. We made Mount Ainslie our first stop. I love this place. From its summit you gain a real sense of the city’s planned layout; a series of radiating axes carefully aligned with significant topographical landmarks around the Australian Capital Territory. Its design is the result of a design competition that attracted architects from around the world. The winning submission was made by two Chicago architects, Walter Burley Griffin and his wife, Marion Griffin.


Once we’d gained our bearing we drove down to the shores of Lake Burley Griffin. We stopped to learn more about the city’s history at the National Capital Exhibition centre. Here you can marvel at a 3-D scale model of the inner city, most notably the Parliamentary Triangle around which the city’s layout is centered. Our next stop was Parliament Hill where we spent several hours wandering its vast hallways, visiting the legislative chambers and admiring the view from its grass-clad roof.

The building’s 81-metre tall stainless steel flagpole never fails to impress. I recently learnt that the flag it flies is 12.8 metres by 6.4 metres, about the size of half a tennis court. I was also surprised to discover a copy of the Magna Carta from 1297AD on display in the central Member’s Hall. The Australian Government purchased it in 1957 for £12,500. It’s now valued at more than £10 million.


Our last sight for the day was the National War Memorial Museum. We couldn’t have chosen a better time to visit. Thanks to ANZAC Day ceremonies days earlier the museum and its surrounding memorials was festooned with fresh wreathes and thousands of red poppies. It made for a moving display of remembrance. I was also pleased to see my favourite exhibit was still on display; a badly damaged Japanese midget submarine salvaged from the bottom of Sydney harbour.

The submarine is actually the remains of two separate vessels. They were part of a trio that entered Sydney Harbour on May 31, 1942 in an attempt to sink Allied warships during World War II. The raid failed and all three subs and their crew perished. The remains of two subs were recovered, reassembled as one vessel, and then taken on a tour of Australian cities to stoke local animosity towards the Japanese. How times have changed. It was somewhat ironic that we’d seen at least one busload of Japanese tourists visiting Parliament earlier in the day.
 
Our evening was spent hanging out at a local bar where we gently toasted ourselves under an outdoor gas heater. Despite dire comments about Canberra’s nightlife, I was pleasantly surprised by the variety of bars, cafes and restaurants within walking distance of our hotel.


The following morning dawned clear and still. Shelley went for a jog along the lake shore and was greeted by the sight of hot air balloons floating overhead. As I explained to her later, she’d been privy to the city’s ultimate postcard experience. After a hearty breakfast, we stopped to visit the National Museum. This venue was built on the site of Canberra’s original hospital. The site was cleared using a controlled explosion. However, the blast went horribly wrong and large pieces of debris were hurled 500 metres across the lake into a crowd of spectators. A young girl lost her life and nine others were injured.
 
Before making our way back to Sydney we stopped briefly to see the corrugated iron cows adorning the New Zealand High Commission's front lawn. We made Bowral our lunch stop; eating at the organic Wild Food Café. However, in hindsight, we should have stopped at Berrima, rather than Bowral. Berrima is a quaint village of colonial homes a few miles south. It sits in a pretty wooded area, unlike the rather soulless, drab concrete streets of Bowral.


Sunday, February 19, 2012

New York, New York


Sitting at the airport soaking up a stunning Summer's day view of Sydney. I'm off to New York for a week on business.

• Posted from my iPhone
• Location:Departure Plaza,Mascot,Australia

Monday, January 30, 2012

Australia Day in Aotearoa


We've just returned from a three-day weekend in Wellington, New Zealand's windy capital city. The weather was mainly sunny and the winds were mild most days. The first full afternoon in town was windy and so I was able to convince Garry that this really is New Zealand's windy capital.  There's nothing like a horizon smothered in white caps and wind-blown water gusts to make your point.

We stayed in a hotel on Cuba Street, an area that's fast beginning Wellington's cafe and night life hotspot.  We ate some superb Thai close to our hotel and were somewhat bemused by the antics of harmless weekend revelers.  As you'd expect we took in all of the regular sights; the Kilburn Cable Car, Te Papa National Museum, the National Archives (where tattered copies of the Treaty of Whitangi can be found) and the spectacular Kapiti Coast.


Here's a quick panorama taken from the top of Mount Victoria (below). It's a stunning view, shared with just a handful of noisy Japanese tour buses. Click on the photo for a full-size image.  More details on our weekend coming soon.

Monday, January 02, 2012

Kamay Botany Bay National Park


Kamay Botany Bay National Park is arguably home to one of modern Australia’s most sacred sites. Within the park’s boundary lies the landing place of Captain James Cook and the crew of the Endeavour. The exact location where they stepped ashore on Saturday, April 28, 1770 is marked by a stone obelisk. On its southern flank a bronze plaque records an extract from Cook’s journal entry;

"At Daybreak we discovered a bay and anchored under the South shore about two miles within the entrance in six fathom water, the South point bearing SE and the North Point East. Latitude 34°S Longitude 208°27’ W.”

The Endeavour’s arrival transformed the continent’s destiny.In particular, the testimony of two seasoned botanists, Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander, proved instrumental in encouraging British authorities to establish a penal colony in 1788. Over a period of eight days, Banks and Solander collected an unprecedented variety of specimens, many edible, while noting the presence of freshwater, a sheltered harbour and a favourable climate.


Garry and I decided to relive this history today by visiting the National Park today. The weather was picture perfect; clear and sunny with a pleasant breeze. We took several short walks to admire the view, read the many interpretive plaques and enjoy the sun’s warmth. A short walk from the Park’s Visitor’s Centre took us through a wooded picnic ground to the rocky coastline. It was fascinating to watch multicultural Australia at its best. Where else could you see old men fish while children play cricket and veiled women smoke shisha from a hookah pipe?


We soon discovered that Cook’s obelisk is just one of several memorials scattered along Botany Bay’s southern flank. Other notable memorials commemorate both Banks and Solander, while nearby, a low stone plinth rests on a tidal rock shelf. It commemorates Midshipman Isaac Smith, the first Englishman to stand on the Australian continent. Further along the coast a short flag pole marks the spot where Forby Sutherland was buried on May 2, 1770. He died of tuberculosis and thus became immortalized as Australia’s first European grave


We then drove along the coast to Yena Gap, opposite the entrance to Botany Bay. A short walk took us down to rocky ledges where foaming white waves were crashing ashore. The view was spectacular, first across the bay to the La Perouse headland and then out across the blue expanse of the Tasman Sea. So often I’ve flown over this area, either departing or landing at the airport, just a few miles away. No matter how many times I fly out, Sydney’s harsh, battered and rocky coast line is always a welcome sight on my return.


Our last stop for the day was Cape Solander where the park’s scenic road comes to an end. Here towering sandstone cliffs sweep down the coast for miles. Once again, the sensation of a brisk sea breeze proved both intoxicating and awe-inspiring as waves pounded the rocks below. Beautiful.

Saturday, December 31, 2011

Farewell 2011


Garry and I have celebrated the end of another remarkable year by joining hundreds of thousands, if not a million or more, people to watch Sydney's New Years Eve fireworks.  We bought tickets to an evening of food and entertainment at the Opera Kitchen precident located in the shadows of Sydney's Opera House.  Throughout the evening we enjoyed sushi, sashimi, gourmet burgers, roasted salmon and other delights as live music, interactive drumming, fire performances, body painting, roving stilt walkers and a six piece soul/jazz band filled the hours before midnight.


The first ten minute firework extravaganza began at 9.00pm and included displays from the Sydney's highest buildings, the harbour bridge and a chain of barges moored mid-harbour. A parade of lighted boats then proceeded to tour the harbour before everyone settled in for a 12-minute pyrotechnic display at midnight. It didn't take long to see why Sydney's celebration is the envy of the world.  What a show it was! Fireworks began exploding from every direction, in all manner of colours, shapes and sizes, culminating in a display that saw the Harbour Bridge transformed into a waterfall of colour, as exploding stars and flares lit up the entire harbour.


I'll leave you with photos of the evening, including highlights from the A$6.5 million fireworks spectacular. You can also watch a video of the display here, which includes the official soundtrack broadcast on a local FM station, along with some dazzling aerial footage. Happy New Year everyone!