Chasing condors

I must admit that Peru proved to be a far more spectacular destination than expected. Aside from iconic tourist experiences, like Machu Picchu, we encountered many other memorable locations. Take, for example, Arequipa, our first destination after leaving Lima. We knew Arequipa would be magical the moment we stepped off the plane. As we descended onto the tarmac, a series of stunning snow-capped volcanoes greeted us, including Chachani, over 6000 metres high and El Misti, a perfectly conical peak.

Arequipa is about 2300 metres above sea level. You notice the attitude immediately. Garry and I took several days to acclimatise but managed to avoid any serious altitude sickness. However, at least four of our group took to their beds with nausea and headaches. Ultimately, the only time either of us really noticed the altitude was during a brief stop at an elevated alpine pass a few days later.

Arequipa is a truly beautiful city centred around a picture-perfect central plaza. A few blocks west of the plaza, a rocky, fast-running stream has carved a steep gully through the inner city. In the distance, a tall and hazy mountain crowns the horizon. The city is home to approximately 700,000 people, making it Peru's second most populated city. It's also known as the nation's legal capital, as Peru's constitutional court is based here.  

Arequipa is strategically located at the crossroads of the colonial silver trade route and the post-independence wool trade route. As a result, it's developed over time into a major administrative, commercial, and industrial hub. An imposing array of grand colonial buildings and churches in the town's colonial centre is a testament to the wealth it has progressively accumulated. We took time out to explore them by day and by night, and dine under their floodlit arches.

We also visited the town's famous Ice Maiden, a frozen Inca human sacrifice discovered in 1995. Mummy Juanita, as the ice maiden is officially known, was sacrificed to the Inca gods sometime between 1440 and 1480. At the time of her death, she was approximately 12–15 years old. She was found on the summit of Mount Ampato, a dormant volcano in the southern Andes. As a result, unlike mummies found elsewhere in the world, Juanita’s remains and garments were not desiccated but rather, preserved as frozen flesh.

Our group’s second day in Arequipa was devoted to a memorable day trip to Colca Canyon. This stunning location is 3191 metres at its deepest point (deeper than the Grand Canyon). The road leading through the area traverses a valley tiered with ancient Inca agricultural terraces, many still in use today. At the valley's deepest and narrowest point, we stopped for several hours at the Mirador Cruz del Cóndor lookout to watch Andean Condors soar on the morning thermal currents.

Watching these magnificent birds sweeping through the valley was truly mesmerising. At times, their massive outstretched wingtips passed mere inches from the canyon’s rocky walls. We learned that an adult condor can have a maximum wingspan of up to 3.3 metres and a weight of up to 15 kg. This makes it one of the world’s largest flying birds. Incredibly, they can live up to 70 years, making them one of the world’s longest-lived birds.

On our way back to Arequipa, we stopped briefly in Maca. This small canyon village, sitting at 3,262 metres, is known for the Iglesia de Santa Ana de Maca, an incredibly photogenic whitewashed church. The present building was built after a fire in 1759 destroyed an earlier structure. It was recently restored after an earthquake damaged it in 1991. As you see above, I took time out to get up close and personal with a few of the friendly locals.

Our day trip also served up another geographical milestone. We drove over the Patapampa Pass, which at 4,879 metres (16,007 feet) was the highest elevation we encountered in South America. Our group stopped briefly to savour the moment at the summit. To put this in perspective, Mount Aoraki in New Zealand is a mere 3,724 metres high and Mount Fuji, Japan's highest peak, is a modest 3,776 metres. Even Mount Blanc, Western Europe’s tallest mountain, falls short at 4,808 metres.

Thousands of travellers before us had stopped here, each participating in a ritual that involves stacking stones into teetering piles. Literally hundreds of these rocky cairns were scattered across the landscape.  Yes, of course, Garry and I added a stone of our own.

As we exited the bus, I experienced the effects of extreme altitude for the first time. I felt a little light-headed as I rose from my seat, and the simple act of stepping off the bus left me surprisingly short of breath. However, the thinning air didn't seem to hinder the locals. We encountered more than one farmer guiding an Alpaca traffic jam along the road throughout the day.

Our last full day in Arequipa was spent wandering the streets of Monasterio Santa Catalina de Siena, a colourful old convent in the centre of town. It was founded in 1579. Incredibly, its residents spent the next four centuries isolating themselves from the surrounding neighbourhood. A very solid 4-meter-high wall certainly helped the cause. In 1970, sections of the cloistered complex were finally opened to the public as a museum.

These days, the convent is a photographer's dream. It's been beautifully restored and finished in vibrant colours with a warm, inviting Aztec hue. Everywhere you look, there's an artful shadow, a cluster of contrasting shapes or an eye-catching perspective. The photos I took barely do justice to this stunning complex.

Follow this link as we cross the Altiplano bound for Lake Titicaca.