Cruising the Bosphorous

At some point in the distant pass the Marmara Sea spilled across a narrow isthmus separating it from the Black Sea. While geologists dispute the exact cause and date of this event, the outcome remains evident today. Known simply as the Bosphorus Strait, this bustling sea lane, marks the modern border between Asia and Europe.

The strait is narrow, as little at 700 metres at one point, widening to 3.7 kilometres as it enters the Black Sea. The seabed varies from 35 to 124 metres below mean tide. Merchant ships and ferries ply its waters in vast numbers daily. The constant traffic and proximity of the opposing shore makes for an endless, mesmerizing scene no matter where you are in Istanbul.

On our last day in Turkey Garry and I decided to head for the water and spend our morning cruising the Bosphorus Strait. The weather was perfect. Hot, sunny and clear. We sailed from the ferry docks at Eminonu, watching the Gatala Bridge slowly recede behind us. Our rattling, rusting cruise boat took us past Dolmabahce Palace, home to the last Ottoman Sultan, and on towards the Bosphorus Bridge.

At 1074 metres, this suspension bridge is the 13th longest single span in world. When it opened in 1973, it was the fourth longest bridge and the first to join two continents. We drove over the bridge earlier in the week when our tour bus transferred us from Haydarpasa rail station on Istanbul’s Asian shore. I was naturally thrilled by the experience, given my love of large-scale infrastructure. Garry wasn’t so captivated.

Just south of the bridge is a delightful suburban village called Ortakoy. Men could be seen fishing from shore (one managed to cast his rod far enough to leave his line and sinker clattering on the top deck of our boat) while a thriving café and bar culture hugged a natural inlet. Nearby is Mecidiye Mosque. This small, yet stylish, structure was built by Nikogos Balyan, the same man behind the spectacular Dolmabahce Palace.

Our cruise continued up past Kandilli and the strait’s narrowest point. Here is located the imposing Fortress of Europe (naturally sited on the European shore). This impressive structure was built in 1452 by Mehmet II as he prepared to invade Constantinople. The subsequent invasion destroyed the Christian Byzantine Empire, establishing the Islamic Ottoman Empire in its place. On the Asia shore of the strait sits a less imposing Fortress of Asia. Fifty years older that its European counterpart, this fortress was built by Sultan Beyazut I during the successful siege of Constantinople in 1396-7.

As we neared the shadow of Faith Sultan Mehmet Bridge our cruise boat slowly turned and began its journey back. This bridge, while less spectacular that its southern partner, is in fact a longer single span. Opened in 1988 the bridge spans 1090 metres between its piers.

Our homeward journey took us past Beylerbeyi Palace, built by Sultan Abdul Aziz to entertain visiting dignitaries, and on towards Leander’s Tower. I’d been fascinated by this tower since I’d first spotted from the balcony of Topkapi Palace a week earlier. The tower sits on a small islet less than 100 metres from the Asian shore. This bold white 18th Century building once housed a quarantine centre, served as a lighthouse and a maritime toll house. Today it’s home to a restaurant and nightclub.

As our boat neared its final destination Garry and I were granted one final vista of Istanbul, its skyline of Sultan Mosques and palaces. Without a doubt, Istanbul is a marvelous city. It’s colourful, full of character and stuffed to the brim with countless layers of history. In a few short days this city had captured my imagination and a piece of soul. I’ll definitely be back.