A reputation in ruins

Ephesus was a bit of a disappointment. Don’t misunderstand me. It has grand sights that leave an enduring impression. Sadly, Garry and I have been spoilt by previous adventures in Petra, Jerash and even Amman. As a result, the beautifully restored Library of Celsus simply reminded us of the Treasury at Petra. The Temple of Hadrian and the Curetus Street were no match for the colonnaded street and ruins of Jerash. The Theatre was no less overwhelming than Amman's restored amphitheatre.

Garry was particularly disappointed by the crowds and endless stream of large, vista-compromising tour groups. When we visited Jerash in early Winter our group was one of only two on the site (which covered an area larger than Ephesus). In Ephesus we had at least one tour group in front of us and one immediately behind us, and another off to the side at all times if space permitted. Additional tour groups graced any vantage point in the distance. We were told that this wasn’t peak season. The experience must be pure hell in Summer!

I was simply disappointed that it wasn’t more impressive than other Roman sites we’ve seen. For as long as I can recall people have being telling me, "You must visit Ephesus. It's amazing." As a result, my expectations were high. I can only say that for someone new to the marvels of the Roman Empire, Ephesus is certainly worth visiting but, it doesn't have the Empire's best ruins.


It's real claim to fame is simply its history. Some rather well know folk had once walked the very same streets we now walked. A New Testament book is named after Ephesus. The early Christian Church held two of its great Councils here. The Virgin Mary is said to have spent her last days here, along with St John the Evangelist.


I was equally fascinated by the tale of the city's decline. Today's ruins lie more than five kilometres from the sea. A grand harbour was once at the gates of the city. It hard to conceive of an entire harbour silting up, sending a bustling seaport economy into terminal decline. However, the trading economy is clearly back in vogue if stalls crowding the exit are any indication. It's also the only place I've ever seen proudly promoting genuine fake watches.


Ephesus did hold a few personal highlights. Three memories stand out. The first is the view that greets you as you pass through the Gates of Hercules. The ground slopes away as a dramatic marble-paved street runs down the hill towards an imposing backdrop of the Library of Celsus and Augustus Gate. As you approach the library this classic vista simply grows more and more spectacular.

The library itself has a fascinating history. Its interior was destroyed during a Goth invasion in 262 AD, while the facade was toppled by an earthquake in the 10th century. The building we see today was carefully restored by dedicated Austrian Archaeologists. This partial restoration gives you a wonderful sense of how grand this city of 25o,000 people must have been.


The second memory is a little more modest. I loved the partially restored public toilet - its purpose self evident from the moment you enter the facility. The ‘hole in the seat’ design has clearly stood the test of time. Bright red poppies were also in full bloom around the area. They gave the otherwise stark marble facades an unexpected tenderness. Their presence is probably my most enduring memory of Ephesus - along with the home-cooked savoury pancakes we later ate for lunch.