Valletta - the jewel of Malta

In December 1522 Ottoman Turks under the command of Suleiman the Magnificent conquered the island of Rhodes. The defeated Christian forces of the Knights Hospitaller retreated to Sicily. In 1530, Charles V of Spain gave the islands of Malta to the Knights in perpetual lease. Malta was soon transformed into a naval base, preying of Islamic shipping in the Eastern Mediterranean Sea.

The resurgence of the Knights, now known as the Knight of Malta, understandably attracted the attention of the Ottomans. In May 1565, they besieged the island and five bloody months of fighting ensued. By the time the Turks retreated Malta has lost a third of its inhabitants and a similar number of Knights were dead.


In the years that followed, led by Grand Master Jean de la Valette, the Knights built a new, heavily fortified city in Malta’s inner harbour. The city was named Valletta after the Grand Master himself. The Knights reined until Malta was captured by Napoleon enroute to Egypt in 1798. Two years later the British blockaded the islands, forced the French to surrender and claimed the island for its Empire.

Today, Malta is an independent republic and one of the EU most recent member states. It joined the Union on May 1, 2004. On January next year it joins the Eurozone, becoming the 14th nations to use this currency.


Without a doubt Malta has enjoyed a colourful history, much of which is still clearly evident today. Last weekend Garry and I enjoyed three days exploring some of the island’s most historic sights. Our first day, Saturday, saw us wake to brilliant sunshine and a stunning view across the rooftops of Sliema towards the fortified city of Valletta. We decided to make this magnificent sight our destination for the day.


Before making our way to Valletta, we took a leisurely stroll along the ocean promenade of Sliema, watching white-capped waves break along the rocky foreshore. It was here we discovered Snoopy’s, an unassuming, dimly lit restaurant that served some of the most divine food we’ve tasted in years. Garry tucked into an enormous steak for lunch, while I enjoyed mouth-watering Tandoori chicken.


After lunch we made our way to the Sliema ferry wharf hoping to catch a boat to Valletta. After some delay, and confusion, it became clear that the ferry wasn’t running. We flagged a taxi and made our way by land. Our first stop in Valletta was St John’s Co-Cathedral, the Malta’s Knight’s main church.

The squat, rather plain building was competed in 1577. However, looks can be deceiving. Once inside the building, visitors are quickly drawn into one of the most ornate buildings I’ve ever encountered. The church’s once plain wall have been carved with the most elaborate Baroque motifs, the floor inlaid with colourful marble artwork and the barrel vault decorated by grand paintings.


No a single wall, nock or arch has been left untouched. Each side chapel is equally emblazoned creating the most extraordinary visual feast. Off to one side sits the Oratory. This private room houses the building’s main attraction, an enormous painting, by the artist Caravaggio, of the beheading of St John the Baptist. An amazingly captivating, simple image.


We then spent the remainder of the afternoon wandering the straight, narrow streets of Valletta. We were constantly confronted by one astounding view after another. Two views stand out. First, the vista from the northern fortifications across the eastern flank of the city taking in the grand dome of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Second, the view across the Grand Harbour to the nearby Three Cities of of Senglea, Vittoriosa and Cospicua. Valletta, without doubt, sits in a beautiful location.