Chichen Itza

El Castillo is probably one of world's iconic Mayan structures. It looks stunning in photos and is truly just as striking in real life. Garry and I caught our first glimpse of this stepped pyramid moments before the sun's rays were smothered by dark, ominous thunder clouds. Without doubt the moment was nature at its best.


El Castillo translates as "the Castle". It towers 23-metre high above an open field, standing guard over other equally impressive structures that make up the ceremonial city of Chichen Itza. The massive pyramid was built as a temple around 900AD, its design incorporating all manner of sophisticated mathematical elements. For example, the number of steps on each of its four sides equals 91. When combined the number totals 364. Include the top platform and the number of steps equals the number of days in calendar year.


Nearby sits the smaller Temple of the Warriors. This structure is best known for the Chac Mool statue, a sacrificial altar in the shape of a reclining man. Given the height of this temple and El Castillo's uppermost platform crowds gathering for human sacrifice ceremonies would see very little. However, our guide noted that Mayan priests were masters of biology and as such undoubtedly knew how cut an artery so that dramatic fountains of blood shot into the air.


At the base of the Temple of the Warriors sits the equally impressive Court of a Thousand Columns. These pillars are the remnants of an impressive marketplace in the heart of the city. The alignment of each row is incredibly precise and remains an impressive site a thousand year later. The size and scale of this complex makes it easy to imagine a city that flourished for several centuries, supporting a population of up 40,000.


Late in the 12th Century the city was abandoned as the Itazaes were driven away by rivals. This diaspora later regrouped in a part of modern day Guatemala and in 1697 became the last Mayan city state to finally under Spanish rule. Chichen Itza itself remained largely uninhabited until the arrival of the Spanish. For a time the conquistador Francisco de Montejo used the site as his headquarters, planning and conducting his conquest of the surrounding peninsular.


Chichen Itza is also home to the largest, most challenging ball court ever found. Two vertical walls almost 168 metres long enclose a breath-taking sport arena that been carefully restored. Our guide pointed out detailed carving along the walls depicting the decapitation of ball players. The artwork was as impressive as it was gruesome.


However, perhaps the most curious structure at Chichen Itza is El Caracol, named after the Spanish word for conch. Its name references the spiral staircase rising through its interior. This ancient domed observatory looks remarkably like its modern name namesake. However, the sight of a modern design that's actually a thousand years old makes for an eerie experience.


Stones could be removed from various sections of the dome facilitating the observation of critical astronomical and solar events in the Mayan calendar. These observations enabled the Mayans to predict the beginning and end of the hurricane season, select the most appropriate times for planting and harvesting and so on. The mathematical skills of this culture are truly remarkable.

Garry and I stayed on site overnight in a hotel that was once home base for the 19th Century archaeologists responsible for restoring much of Chichen Itza. After dark we joined other visitor at the base of El Castillo to watch a spectacular light and sound show. This entertaining spectacle brought to life the region's history, the culture of the Mayans and daily life in the grand city itself.


I loved the dramatic finale during which red lights outline the shadow of a snake flowing down the north staircase. The snake is an image of Kukulkan, the Mayan's serpent god. Historically this shadow was only visible on the days of the Spring and Autumn equinox. It cleverly completed by the Mayan who placed a pair of snake heads sculptures at the base of the staircase. These imposing carved heads are still visible today.


The following morning we ventured back to the site before the daily tour bus crowds arrived. For hours we had the entire city almost to ourselves. The opportunity to wander unhindered by tourist hordes was a memory I'll cherish for many year to come. However, my most unexpected memory will always be the sight of iguanas quietly making their way across an open field to nearby sun-baking rocks.