Our first day in Antarctica began with an early start. We were woken at 2.45am after our charter flight with DAP was cleared for departure at 6am. Why the early start? The weather is incredibly fickle in the polar regions and so pilots take advantage of any suitable four-hour flight window. Today our flight would take us from Punte Arenas to the South Shetland islands in less than two hours, literally skipping over the dreaded Drake Passage and thus avoiding two days of rough sailing.
It was a magic moment entering the Punta Arenas airport terminal and seeing one flight on the departure board with Antarctica listed as its final destination. The flight itself was uneventful. We landed shortly before 8am on December Eve at Teniente Rodolfo Marsh Martin airport located on the western tip of King George Island, the largest of the South Shetland Islands.
We'd flown south in a BAE340 aircraft. This four-jet jet has a high wing design, making it ideal for short runways and airports lacking paved tarmac; which Teniente Rodolfo Marsh Martin offers in abundance. The runway consists of compressed gravel and is barely 1200 metres long. It a barren, desolate location surrounded by gravel, snow and ice.
Our cruise group consisted of 59 people; largely American, Australian and British folk. The group had met the previous evening for an initial orientation briefing and a welcome dinner at Palacio Sara Braun; one of Punta Arenas’ iconic hotel buildings. We dined on local lamb under the cover of an ornate glass atrium after enjoying a delicious King Crab appetizer. The chef even brought one of these enormous crabs into the dining room for us to admire.
Landing on King George Island proved rather uneventful. The touchdown was no rougher than most commercial flights I’ve experienced. However, the scene outside was as barren and remote as any I’ve ever seen. Antarctica consists principally of rock, snow and ice; and very little else. We later learnt that our polar journey was taking us through the continent’s most scenic locations. Apparently, the further south you travel the more monotonous the scenery becomes as snow and ice progressively smother every geographic feature.
As we made our way down to the foreshore to meet the expedition team an unusual monument caught my eye. It's a copper globe inscribed with a map of the world, perched atop a flat-panelled cone. Each panel is inscribed with the name of signatories to the 1950 Antarctic treaty. This treaty suspended all sovereign territory claims to Antarctica, while later amendments control (or rather, ban) access to the continent's mineral resources.
We heard a lot about the treaty during our cruise. Its terms have dramatically influenced the character of human activity in the polar region; particularly activity associated with research and the strategic value of maintaining a continual presence.
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