Bern and bears

Almost a year ago we stopped overnight in the city of Bern, or Berne as it’s sometimes known. I last visited the city in 1990. I recalled being enthralled by the grandeur of its cobblestone streets and the covered stone arcades of its old town. The city remained just as captivating two decades later. 

On this latest visit, we arrived in Bern shortly after dusk, after an eventful day traveling through the Alps on the Glacier Express. I booked us into the Hotel Continental, a highly-rated budget hotel located in the heart of the old city. We were determined to make the most of our brief overnight stop. So, after checking in, we ventured out to explore the old city after dark until the cold finally got the better of us.

Bern's old city is a scenic and compact district straddling the River Aare. Many of its earliest dwellings, built in 12th Century, have been carefully preserved. Their stone facades make for an impressive sight as they gracefully wrap around the river's steep, curving banks. We spent several hours the following morning wandering its streets, soaking up its enduring grace and charm before catching an early afternoon train to Interlaken. 

Bern is currently the fourth most populous city in Switzerland. It's home to more than 125,000 but still retains a village feel. It serves as a defacto capital for the federal alpine nation. Its name is derived from the German word for bear. In keeping with these origins the city has maintained a drab bear pit by the river Aare since the 16th Century. When I last visited several bored animals were restlessly wandering around a soulless, stark, concrete enclosure set well below street level.

I’m pleased to report that, two decades later, the bears have been relocated. They now reside in a spacious new park on a gentle slope overlooking the river. When we visited, two families of healthy-looking animals could be seen frolicking in the snow. The old bear pit is now completely abandoned.

According to local guidebooks, the most famous sight in Bern is the Zytglogge, or time bell. This is an elaborate medieval clock tower that displays a different collection of moving puppets each time a new hour is struck. We briefly stopped to watch it in action as we wandered the old town.

However, the most memorable sight during our visit was a display of Christmas candles we encountered outside Bern's imposing 15th Century town hall the night before. Hundreds of candles were set up in an impressive display on the plaza out the front of the building. It seems we timed our visit well as the entire installation was gone the following morning.

Perhaps one of the most surreal sights in Bern is the Kindlifresser, or “Child Eater” sculpture. This disturbing fountain towers above the street in the centre of town. It depicts a baby half stuffed into a giant’s mouth, with a sack full of three alarmed tots slung over his shoulder, no doubt for later snacking. 

Erected in 1546, it's one of the city's oldest fountains. Oddly, nobody's sure why it’s there. Currently, there are three popular theories as to its origins. However, I tend to support the view that it's a boogie man from Switzerland’s Fastnacht, or ”Night of Fasting” festival. I can just imagine harried parents deciding it would motivate children to behave themselves almost five centuries ago.

While wandering through town we were delighted to catch a glimpse of the city's recently restored steam tram. It was built in 1894 and remained in operation on the city network until it was replaced by electric trams in 1908. The tram was restored to working order in 2002. It currently operates regular tram tours through the old town and across the scenic Kirchenfeld Bridge. No doubt, if we’d planned our day a little better we’d have booked a ticket. 

UPDATE: May 2024
I’ve decided to date change this post so that it appears sequentially after our day trip on the spectacular Glacier Express..