Sunday, June 30, 2019

Woomera



As a self-confessed space geek, I’ve always wanted to visit Woomera.  It’s the closest thing we have to the Florida Space Coast in Australia.  Woomera township was the heartland of British and Australian rocket science for the better part of three decades.  It was here that scientists tested rockets and launched satellites into orbit, including Australia’s first and only satellite launched from Australian territory.

Construction of Woomera Village began in mid-1947 to cater for thousands of people arriving as part of the Anglo-Australian Project. During its heyday (1949–71), the village population reached around 7,000 as people lived and worked here.  Woomera Village initially operated as a "closed town" between 1947 and 1982, but today welcomes visits by the general public.


 The township itself is rather unique.  As one commentator rightly described it, the town’s surprisingly well-developed infrastructure and orderly layout could easily be mistaken for a quintessential Canberra suburb.  The roads are paved, shaded by trees and lined with well-maintained kerbs and sidewalks.  It bears little resemblance to the more ramshackle townscape you typically encounter in the Outback.

The town even boasts an indoor bowling alley, cinema, public pool and several well-maintained social clubs including an RSL Club despite being home to less than 300 people.  However, without a doubt, the real highlights for me were its rocket parks and museums.  


In the centre of town reside two rocket parks; with duelling rockets competing for attention on the opposing corners of a quiet intersection.  Each is populated by an impressive series of rockets and military hardware.  Highlights include a vertically mounted Blue Steel rocket, a Canberra bomber and the battered remains of a Redstone rocket used to launch Australia's first satellite.

The Woomera Heritage Centre, located a few hundred metres away, was a real surprise.  Its incredibly well-presented interactive exhibits outline the history of the township, its once-secret military endeavours and hardship locals faced living on the edge of the Outback.  Garry and I spent more than three hours exploring the town and learning of its extraordinary history.

Woomera had one final highlight for us as we headed out of town for a four-hour drive to Coober Pedy.  As we drove out of town we encountered an Emu running down the highway. It dashed along the highway for 50 metres or so before finally veering off into the tussock.  It was ultimately the only sighting of an Emu in the wild during our entire vacation.

However, the day's greatest highlight was a leisurely stop at Lake Hart. This stunning lake is located about 47km north of Woomera.  It's here that the modern Ghan railway also winds its way along the lakefront making for some spectacular scenery.

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