Rest in peace

I flew back to New Zealand on March 16 to join the family as we laid my father's ashes to rest.  The family held a simple, low-key ceremony the following afternoon at Pyes Pa Memorial Park. It's a peaceful location on the outskirts of Tauranga.  The park was chosen as Dad's final resting place because his parents' ashes are also buried here.

The local council established the park in 1967.  As the years have passed, its vision of a tranquil, landscaped park has quietly unfolded.  Today the grounds are filled with mature trees and gardens, offering a peaceful park to remember those who have passed.

New Zealand is currently in the grip of its driest Summer in more than fifty years.  However, on the day we chose to gather, the heavens opened up and more than 8.4mm of rain fell.  It was somehow fitting that Dad's final act should result in another life-long memory. 

The family stopped first for lunch in Tauranga, hoping for a break in the weather.  This wasn't to be.  We ultimately gathered around Dad's plot under a raft of umbrellas.  Mum had chosen the perfect spot for his plot under the limbs of a young Magnolia tree.  In the years ahead, the tree will provide an increasingly spectacular backdrop and a handy landmark for first-time visitors.

My brother Matt read the poem "One at Rest" that my Auntie Pan had shared at Dad's funeral.  Then, one by one, family members took turns to cover the pale blue biodegradable urn containing Dad's ashes with a spadeful of soil. Our ceremony finished with each of us inscribing a colouful helium balloon with a farewell message and releasing them into the sodden sky.  As each balloon rose into the sky we shared a champange toast.  Farewell Dad.  May you live in our hearts forever.

Surviving Marmageddon

For the last 15 months the news in New Zealand has been filled with talk about Marmageddon.  What’s that you ask?  Sanitarium Marmite, a pungent yeast spread, is a popular staple in New Zealand households. The bitter, salty, dark brown paste is the nation’s answer to Australia’s Vegemite and Promite, or the UK’s own version of Marmite.  Growing up in New Zealand, you always had Marmite spread liberally on your toast at breakfast, or hidden in your lunch box sandwiches.  

Since 1919, all of New Zealand’s Marmite has made in a single factory, located on the outskirts of Christchurch. It’s manufactured under license using a recipe adapted from that used for the UK’s Marmite spread.  Most notably, New Zealand’s version includes sugar and caramel which results in a slightly less tangy, smoother tasting product.  However, both versions use the yeast by-products of beer brewing as their core ingredient.  Much like Vegemite, you either love it, or you hate it.

I love it.  When Garry and I were living in the UK, I used to carry jars of Marmite home with me after every New Zealand visit.  My parents even bought me a large jar when they came to stay in 2007. Since returning to Australia I’ve been able to satisfy my cravings without resorting to imports as the local Supermarket sells small 250g jars of the stuff.   However, this availability proved short-lived.  Production of New Zealand Marmite was halted in November 2011 when the Christchurch factory closed for repairs.

The Christchurch factory had been damaged by the deadly February 22, 2011 earthquake and its aftershocks.  Its cooling tower had cracks and closer inspection revealed other structural issues. Sanitarium was forced to halt production.  It originally anticipated that repairs would take seven months to complete.  By March 2012, its stocks had run out, leaving consumers with the specter of bare shelves for at least three months.  The price of Marmite quickly went through the roof.  Large jars were offered online for as much as NZ$800, considerably more than the regular retail price of $4.25 for a 250g jar.

At the time I was oblivious to the shortage. I notice its disappearance from our Supermarket shelves but assumed that Coles had decided to stop stocking the product. Only weeks earlier I’d blithely and lavishly spread the last of my Marmite on toast.  I decided to resort to imports once again and my sister-in-law to bring Marmite when she came to visit.  It was then that I learnt of an emerging storage the media were dubbing "Marmageddon".

In June last year Sanitarium discovered more earthquake damage, pushing Marmite’s return to shelves out into 2013. Marmite has now been out of stock for a year.  However, the end of the drought is in sight.  This week, the company announced that Marmite would be back on shelves from March 20.  It claims to have already begun full production of 250g jars, its most popular size.  I’ll be interested to see if our local Coles will restock the product after a 12 month hiatus.  I fear they’ll decide people like me have moved on to other products.  We haven't.  I hate Vegemite and English Marmite is just awful stuff.

I’m reasonably optimistic marmite will return to local Supermarket shelves as our store recently introduced a classic New Zealand products section.  A few weeks ago we suddenly discovered a shelf groaning with L&P soft drink, cheese flavoured Rashuns and other popular New Zealand junk food.  If I’d not just returned from a month with family, drinking L&P almost daily I’m sure I’d have made an impulse purchase.  As was I relented just enough to buy a packet of coconut Krispie biscuits, a taste sensation I’ ve not had since childhood.

There she glows

My last post about our trip to Siding Springs in 2005 brought back memories of a second expedition Garry and I made a month later to the summit of Mauna Kea on Hawaii’s Big Island.  Manua Kea is considered one of the world’s best sites for astronomical observation thanks to its altitude, dry air and stable airflows.  It also enjoys an average of 325 clear nights per year.  As a result, since 1964, a total of thirteen telescopes have been erected on its summit, funded by at least separate 11 nations.

In April 2005, while visiting the Big Island, Garry and I booked a tour up to the summit, more than 4,200 metres above the Pacific.  Like every other soaring mountain, Mauna Kea’s peak is a chilly, uncomfortable location. The tropical heat of Hawaii’s coastal regions never reaches such giddy heights.  In fact, it seems that only tourists are foolish enough to venture this high.  Even the astronomers avoid the place.  They sensibly operate their observatories remotely from warmer, more accommodating locations. 

Our tour was timed to coincide with sunset. This meant we were treated to spectacular skies, along with a chance to see the giant observing instruments quietly spring into life.  Perhaps one of the most astonishing sights is that of the mountain’s shadow just before sunset.  A soft grey triangle stretches out across the surrounding cloud tops creating the illusion of a twin peak rising in the distance.  If you time your arrival just so, you can stand on the shadow’s rim, wave your arms and witness your movements on the shadow’s edge.  Very cool!

We spent less than an hour at the summit.  Our guides were constantly on the watch for the symptoms of altitude sickness. The risk is real.  Years later Garry and I witness how debilitating it is when members of our Peruvian tour party suffered as our tour bus crossed a mountain pass above 4,000 metres. In Hawaii, our tour guides try to reduce this risk by making a compulsory stop for an hour halfway up the mountain at the Visitor’s Information Centre. 

 

This small service building sits about 2,800 metres above sea level, just below the cloud base that regularly shrouds Mauna Kea's summit. The smooth, paved highway also ends at this point.  From here, the road turns to gravel and winds its way precariously up the mountain’s desolate rusty volcanic rock flank. Incredibly, Mauna Kea is only considered a dormant volcano.  It last erupted 4, 600 years ago. 

The Big Island does boast at least one active volcano, nearby Kilauea.  Garry and I trekked out to the site of this volcano’s active lava flow to witness its glowing, viscous lava slowly ooze towards the sea.  Reaching the lava flows involved a three kilometer trek across rough, uneven piles of old lava.  The rock is deadly to footwear. It’s sharp, glassy edges simple tear shoe leather to shreds.

We trekked out from the end of the road late afternoon. Dusk is considered the best time to view the lava as its ominous glow is far more spectacular in the fading light.  This certainly proved to be true.  As the sky darkened we soon realized there were giant streams of hot lava cascading down distant slopes we’d barely glanced at earlier in the day.

 

The lava is safe to view.  While it’s extraordinarily hot, it moves at a slow pace.  This meant we could move from location to location without fear of our route being blocked, or our observation point being suddenly engulfed.  However, as we retraced our steps, we discovered our route had taken us across active lava flowing several feet below our feet.  In our efforts to reach visible surface flows, we’d inadvertently cross a “bridge” of cooled lava. 

It was quite a shock to discover lava glowing deep down in the odd crack.  Earlier in the day, this faint glow had been completely invisible. It was a timely reminder that nature remains the master of its own domain.  We meekly reassured ourselves that we were probably never in any real danger given how many other people had made the same trek through the day.  We decided the ever-present National Park Rangers would have closed off the area had the risk been significant.

Follow this link for the next leg of our Hawaiian adventure on the island of Kauai.

Siding Springs

How about a trip down memory lane?  Over the years I’ve published numerous posts about my growing list of space tourism excursions.  You’ll recall I’ve visited Star City near Moscow, watched a Space Shuttle launch and clambered through the bowels of a Titan Missile silo.  The vast majority of these adventures have taken place overseas. Australia isn’t exactly the centre of space and aeronautic technology.

 

The nation does have a small handful of world class locations including the Canberra Deep Space Communication Complex in Tidbinbilla, the giant radio telescope at the CSIRO Parkes Observatory and the Australian Astronomical Observatory at Siding Springs.  All three sites are located within a few hours of Sydney so it’ll come as no surprise to learn that I’ve visited all three in the last 15 years.
 

I was reminded of one such visit recently after a devastating bush fire swept through the Siding Springs area on January 13.  The media published dramatic images of a wall of orange flames rising over the Anglo-Australian optical telescope’s dazzling white dome. You can see one such photo published by the Sydney Morning Herald above.

Many feared the worst.  Exactly ten years earlier bush fires completely destroyed the Mount Stromlo observatory on the outskirts of Canberra.  At the time similar images showed flames raging around the observatory’s distinctive dome.  However, this time the news was good.  The giant 4-metre optical telescope and the nearby 1.2-m UK Schmidt Telescope at Siding Springs escaped unharmed.

 

Garry and I visited Siding Springs over a long weekend in March 2005.  I’d timed our trip to coincide with a rare public open day at the observatory. We cashed in some frequent flyer points, flew to Dubbo on a Friday morning, hired a car and spent four days exploring the area.  We based ourselves in Dubbo for the first night.  While there we explored the expansive Western Springs Zoo, where a friendly giraffe gave me a terrifying tongue link.  I’d been invited to feed it carrots by the attending zoo keeper.

 

On Saturday we drove to Coonabarabran, a small town roughly 27kms away from Siding Springs.  We attended the Open Day tours on Sunday. Garry will reluctantly admit that the experience proved more interesting than expected.  Both of us were surprised to discover that Siding Springs is actually home to almost a dozen different telescopes, most of which were open to the public.  Resident astronomers spent the day taking small groups on tours through the facilities culminating in a visit to the impressive Anglo Australian telescope.

 

The giant telescope is housed in a 26 metre high dome that sits on a remote hill on the eastern edge of the Western Plains.  It was built to provide astronomers with optical observing capabilities previously limited to the Northern Hemisphere.  The telescope was commissioned in 1974, giving eager astronomers an unrivaled ability to study phenomenon only visible in the southern sky.  This includes the centre of our own Milky Way Galaxy and its nearest galactic neighbours, the Magellanic Clouds.

 

During our tour I vividly recall seeing the giant 4-metre telescope being gracefully pivoted on its equatorial mounting.  The ease with which the instrument moved was astonishing given that it weighs a staggered 260 tonnes. Our guide later explained that the telescope rarely moves in this manner.  She explained that it typically inches along, following the track of stars as they move across the night sky. It seems that the telescope’s chief engineer had decided to put on a bit of a show for the visitors. We were delighted!

 

Later that evening, Garry and I booked a night sky observation dinner in Coonabarabran. With Siding Springs nearby, many of the town’s residents are employed by the observatory.  As a result, Coonabarabran boosts a number of impressive amateur telescopes and knowledgeable astronomers.  We spent a fascinating evening at the local Warrumbungle Observatory viewing Jupiter, Saturn and the Moon’s cratered surface.

The final day of our vacation was spent back in Dubbo touring the city's infamous goal and the underworld delights of the Wellington Caves, located about 40 minutes south.  The caves proved particularly interesting.  We joined the Cathedral cave tour which takes visitors past a breath-taking 15-metre high 'Altar', a magnificent combination of boulders, flowstone and stalagmites covered in glittering crystal calcite.  However, for me, the real highlight was an opportunity to handle fossilised bones miners had extracted from neighbouring mine shafts.

We love ice cream

Perhaps one of the best things about smartphones is the ability to capture quality images of life's special moments.  This one of them. Five minutes walk from my Mum's house in New Zealand, there's a small corner store opposite the beach.  It sells the world's largest ice cream cones at the cheapest price you can image.  Here's my sister-in-law, Karin, and my niece, Nici, making the most of this Summer bargain.

It's a bird? It's a plane?

NASA recently launched a niffy new email alert for folks keen to view the International Space Station.I’ve heard that the station is surprisingly bright and thus easy to spot as it passes overhead.  I subscribed to it several months ago. Initially the alerts highlighted viewing opportunities in early hours of the morning which I could never be bothered rousing for, or the sky was inconveniently overcast.

Today I was alerted to a one minute viewing opportunity at 22:19 this evening. The weather was clear and, at 42 degrees above the horizon, the viewing angle was relatively high in the sky. With a hint of skeptical anticipation I dutifully stepped out on to our southern balcony shortly before the predicted time.

On schedule, a bright light appeared in the sky, broadly at the predicted point on the compass i.e. starting from the Southwest before disappearing in the South Southwest. The 419.45 tonne structure is currently flying 403 kilometres above the Earth’s surface, travelling at 27,625 km/h. It was clearly visible despite the ubiquitous urban night glow, moving steadily towards my vantage point.

At first I thought I had simply spotted an aircraft. However, as predicted, the bright dot of light abruptly vanished midway across the night sky a minute later. Definitely not an aircraft! No doubt the station’s sudden disappearance reflects its passage into the earth’s shadow. The sun set today in Sydney at 20:09.

I’m hooked! The station was easy to spot. It literally flashed into view as a bright point of light, far more dazzling than any planet or star. I’ll definitely look out for it again! As I reflect, I'm reminded of a visit Garry and I made to the Kennedy Space Centre in July 2007. At the time we, saw the Columbus research module undergoing final preparation for launch (see the photo above). The same module now orbits above our heads. Awesome!

It’s also mind-boggling to think that there are six people living inside of that glowing dot at this very moment. Since November 2000, an impressive 204 people have visited the station. It offers a roomy 388 cubic meters of habitable space, roughly the same floor area of a modest suburban house.

UPDATE: January 24, 2013 - 9:30pm
Garry and I have just completed a second successful sighting of the International Space Station.  Once again a dazzling point of light appeared on cue over our apartment.  For two minutes we watched it soar across the night sky, almost directly overhead, at remarkable speed.  Garry was suitably impressed.

This second sighting has also quietly reassured me that I really did spot the station three nights ago.  More sightings are scheduled at a similar time over this week.  We might try our luck again if the weather holds. Stay tuned.

UPDATE: January 25, 2013 - 8:40pm
Garry and I have been at it again.  We made it out onto our balcony this evening at 8:35pm to watch the station pass by.  Even in the relatively bright twilight sky it's still a suprisingly vibrant dot of light.  Tonight's sighting lasted almost five minutes. Very cool.
 

Endless Summer memories

My time in New Zealand over Christmas/New Year wasn't just a time of sorrow.  Inbetween tending to my dying father's needs the family carved out a few moments of Summer delights.  We unwrapped gifts on Christmas Day, ate Fish & Chips on Tauranga Wharf, walked around the Mount and enjoyed ocean surf.

My parents ready did choose a small piece of heaven in which to enjoy their retirement years.  I hope there will plenty more excuses to head back again in future years.  For now, I know I'll be back some time in March to formally intern my father's ashes in their final resting place.

 

Help, help! I'm melting!

Sydney has endured its hottest day on record today.  The mercury hit 45.8 degrees in the city at 2:55pm, while temperatures at the airport soared to a staggering 46.4 degrees.  Our apartment sits mid way between these two locations.  It would be safe to say we probably sweltered through temperatures of at least 46 degrees on our apartment balcony. 

Sydney's previous high of 45.3 degrees was recorded in January 1939 at Observatory Hill.  It's hard to believe this record was broken by at least half a degree.  The heat was incredibly intense at its peak.  Although, as early as 9:00am this morning, the heat pouring through our east-facing windows already proved unbearable.  We eventually closed the blinds and cranked up the air-conditioning.

Some of our plants on the balcony are looking decidedly unhappy.  The sunward facing leaves have dried up and many others are looking a droopy despite an emergency burst of water from the garden irrigation system. However, the washing dried in record time.  We reckon it was probably faster than the dryer we normally use.

It also comes as no surprise to learn that electricity consumption hit an all time high this afternoon.  No doubt every serviceable air conditioner in the city was cranked up to high today as temperatures soared.

Floral tribute

Text 100, my former employer, has surprised me with a fabulous bunch of flowers to commemorate my father's passing. The gesture is most unexpected but very much appreciated.

Saying goodbye

We farewelled my Dad last Saturday at a spectacular location; Woodhill in Tauranga, New Zealand. The photos posted here give you a wonderful sense of the splendour and serenity offered by this converted Kauri homestead. The weather was perfect on the day and the service unfolded just as the family had hoped. All in all his funeral was a fitting tribute to life truly well lived.

I gave Dad's eulogy, while Hamish shared a tribute to Dad written by Matt. Sadly, Matt couldn't be with us for the day.  He and Shelley flew to Florida a few days before Dad died. They've just bought a sign-making business and were scheduled to attend critical franchisee training as part of this acquisition. As a family, we agreed that Dad would have wanted them to continue with this training. He'd have wanted them to protect and secure their ongoing livelihood.

Uncle Dick shared a tribute on behalf of Mum's family, and Auntie Pam read a poem selected by the celebrant. I also spent several days compiling a video montage of my Dad's life, set to music that Mum and I chose. I think Mum appreciated our efforts to ensure a truly memorable send-off. I also did all I could to ensure she didn't have to worry about anything in the days leading up to the funeral.

Despite the sad occasion, it was lovely to see so many friends and family come together. In the days leading up to the service, numerous people generously offered support and assistance. For example, Garry's brother David, a professional graphic designer, retouched the photo Dad chose before he died.  The resulting image was sunny and bright, bringing a huge smile to my Mum's face the moment she saw the finished article.

How to ruin a perfectly awful day

Disaster! The funeral director just called us to confess he's double-booked the venue arranged for Dad's funeral.  It appears a memorial service has been scheduled for Friday afternoon; an event booked more than three months ago.We're now scrambling to let people know the service is happening a day later.

 

Poor Mum really didn't need the added stress. We intentionally pre-arranged many funeral details more than a month ago so that the period immeidately after Dad's passing would be relatively calm. The funeral director initially proposed a change of venue, then a change of date and finally an alternative celebrant when our preferred person was unavailable for the alternative date and time we proposed. 

 

I think the funeral director already regrets that he's had to deal with me.  I made it clear his mistake had really upset the family.  Mum hates that we've had to shift the funeral to a morning slot. I've told the funeral director to substaintially improve the catering at his expense now that our service it likely to finish at lunch time.  He initially protested, telling me he was already spending $450 of own money to republish newspaper death notices. 

 

I made it clear that I didn't appreciate being told the cost to republish notices at his expense was a form of compensation. I'm not sure how fixing an error he'd always have to correct somehow compensates Mum for the additional angish caused.  It seems that my Dad's legacy continues to unfold.

Farewell Dad

My Father has lost his long battle with cancer. He was admitted for acute care at Althorp Private Hospital just over a month ago. At the time we hoped to bring him home on Christmas Day for a final family reunion.  However, this wasn't to be. As December 25 approached it became increasingly clear that the end was near.  His doctor cautioned that Dad was unlikely to see in the New Year. 

However, my father had other thoughts. He went on to survive a week longer than expected before finally slipping away in the early hours this morning. For seven days the family maintained an often heart-breaking 24-hour vigil by his bedside. Thankfully, despite some harrowing moments, his passing was ultimately peaceful. He died quietly in his sleep. In an odd way, these last few weeks became a special time for the family as Dad's final act brought us closer together. As we quietly tended to his needs bonds were strengthened and his humble legacy was progressively honoured.

Regular blog readers will recall that I enjoyed some wonderful adventures with Dad during his final year. We took time out to tour many of the destinations still on his bucket list including China, Canada and New York City. It was gratifying to share my favourite tourist experiences with him, seeing his face light up at special moments. I'll always remember his incredulous smile after seeing the Terracotta Warriors and Pandas at Beijing Zoo, as well as his delightful, unexpected burst of energy while strolling around the Statue of Liberty.

Thank you Dad for the precious gift of life. Thank you for the sacrifices you've made as the years passed; always ensuring we never wanted for anything. Even in his final weeks during a brief lucid moment, Dad paused to ask if I had enough money to live.  Once reassured, he gave a satisfying sigh, then slipped back into his morphine haze. That was my Dad.  Thinking of his family to the very end.

Here's to a life well lived. Farewell Dad.