New Orleans

New Orleans is unlike any other American city I’ve visited. It doesn’t look like your typical American metropolis. Much of the city’s architecture and culture reminded me of Europe. It was easy to see how strongly the French and the Spainish influenced this city long before the Yankees came to town. New Orleans is definitely a world apart. So much so that I came away from New Orleans with a far deeper sense of how the American Civil War could have ever come to pass.


Unlike so much of America, New Orleans feels old and full of history. In this sense, its presence is much closer to that of towns and cities in Europe. The city was founded in 1718 by a French Canadian explorer, Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne, Sieur de Bienville. Initially it was located on high ground along the Bayou St John, a natural canal linking the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain which in turn offered direct access to the Gulf of Mexico. High ground is a relative terms in these parts. A year after the city was founded, it was flooded, a scene that went on to repeat an average of once every 11 years.


In the last century, the surrounding swamps were drained, the gators dispersed and the city expanded to fill the new land. Many of these new suburbs were below sea level. In fact, less than 25,000 people live at or above sea level in the entire city. At least 32,000 people live more than ten feet below sea level. As a result, the Mississippi River dominates the city. This is a truly enormous expanse of water. As it passes through the city, its average depth is more than 200 feet deep and is far bank is more than 600 metres away. Incredibly, while we were in town a cruise ship docked for the day.


We spent our first day exploring the city’s oldest and most colourful district, the French Quarter, before venturing down the Mississippi on the city’s only steam-powered riverboat. The French Quarter is wonderful. Its picturesque, intimate and filled with fascinating sights and sounds. While some of the 19th Century buildings have been carefully restored, most look tired and past their prime.

Our first stop was Jackson Square. This pristine, vivid green park, with carefully manicured trees and shrubs is the traditional heart of the city. The square is dominated by a statue of Jackson, flanked by three classical buildings constructed in perfect symetery. The most unusual of the three is St Louis Cathedral. It’s white, Disney-castle-like roof is unlike any other church I’ve ever seen.


We stopped for lunch at a charming restaurant on Bourbon Street, the main thoroughfare bisecting the French Quarter. As we entered the room, we felt ourselves step back in time to a simpler era. The room was dominated by a dark-stained wooden bar running the length of the room, while classic white-sill lattice windows ran along the opposing side. Large, lazy fans churned the air above us.


We ventured back on to Bourbon Street later that evening. The scene couldn’t have been more different. Neon signs were on. Bars were alive with sounds of live jazz, blues and brass. Crowds wandered the street with drinks in hand. The atmosphere was festive and fun. It was easy to see why the city’s annual Mardi Gras season is one of endless decadence and partying. We only saw it in the off-season and it already had more happening than London’s Soho on an average Friday night.


Our second day in New Orleans was spent on a mini-van tour of the city, witnessing the staggering impact of Hurricane Katrina. This experience has earned a post of it own. We then caught the local ferry across the Mississippi to visit Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World. This expanse of warehouses is home to an enormous workshop tasked with building and storing many of the city’s Mardi Gras parade floats. The craftsmanship we saw was extraordinary. Bright, colourful and creative objects, many larger than life, filled every corner of the building.

However, the real highlight for me was a chance to catch up an old friend, Michele, and her husband, David. Michele was in town to catch a flight to Dallas for work. She and David collected us from the airport, and then took us for a late-night coffee, complete with beignet (a French doughnut liberally coated in powered sugar) at Café du Monde, one of the city’s institutions.


Michele even arranged an update to the Executive Floor of our hotel. This enabled us to enjoy stunning views across the city and the mighty Mississippi from the Private Lounge. The perfect place for a lazy afternoon cocktail. It was wonderful to see Michele again and learn of her adventures in America. She and David are off to live in Cairo for a year. Excellent! I’d love an excuse to go cruising on the Nile again.