Cultural Madrid

Plaza de la Villa is home to Madrid’s splendid town hall, Casa de la Villa. On Tuesday evening I wandered through the plaza enroute to dinner at a local flamenco venue. I was thrilled to encounter a cobblestone space lit by subtle green and lavender floodlights. All in all, this proved to be a wonderfully uplifting moment during last week’s business trip.


Construction of this neoclassic, baroque structure began in 1644 and continued for more than 52 years. Its similarity to nearby Plaza Mayor, the traditional centre of Madrid, is no accident. Buildings in both plazas are largely the work of the same man, Juan Gómez de Mora. Surprisingly, the building once served as the local prison and town hall. The main left-hand door led to the prison, while the right-hand door to the assembly hall.


Five minutes walk from Casa de la Villa is Plaza Mayor. This majestic square was originally planned by Felipe II and his architect Juan de Herrera. However, its final shape was created by Juan Gómez de Mora and inaugurated in 1620 during Felipe III's reign. Today a bold statue of Felipe III sits in the centre of the square, a striking reminder that Spain was once a wealthy, global power.

Over the years, the square has had many different names. It was originally the site of the "Plaza del Arrabl" market, taking this name before becoming the Plaza Mayor. Over time it was known as Plaza de la Constitución, Plaza Real and Plaza de la República before reverting to its current name following the Spanish Civil War. As you’d expect, the enclosed space has seen its share of public spectacles including executions, coronations, bullfights, Inquisition trials and fiestas. On Tuesday, it simply echoed to the sound of locals enjoying outdoor cafes nestled in the shadows of its floodlit walls.

The classical buildings of Madrid certainly leave a lasting impression. However, its public artwork constantly captured my imagination. The first such work can be found at Plaza de Oriente. This ornate garden plaza frames the equally spectacular Royal Opera building. Along its edge run two rows of white marble statues. These are the 44 monarchs who have ruled the Iberian peninsula since Gothic times. Each was originally crafted as an ornamental rooftop sculpture for the neighbouring Palacio Real, or Royal Palace. However, concern over the combined weight of this artwork meant that none were never hoisted into place.


Beyond the Palace sits the city’s cathedral. I was captivated by a small Madonna and Child that sit a top the building's central portico, more than 70 metres above the street.


In a nearby laneway can be found one of the city’s quirkiest sculptures. On Cuesta de la Vega you stumble across the remains of the city’s old arab walls, dating from the 9th Century. Each crumbling foundation is protected from the elements by a low glass cover that resembles a skylight cut into the pavement. At the end of one enclosure a lone man stands silently viewing the glass. It took me several minutes to realize he was in fact a bronze statue.


To complete our cultural experience on Tuesday evening, we dined at Casa Patas, a popular flamenco dance venue. Here we watched an incredibly talented couple dance passionately on a dimly lit wooden stage. At times their feet were a blur as they tapped out the bold energetic steps of the famous Castillian dance. Dinner was equally memorable. The restaurant’s wall was decorated by rows of cured meats, some of which hung at the end of the bar, ready to be carved into delicious platters of Spanish tapas. It’s the small things that bring a city to life.