Wednesday, December 28, 2022

Skippers Road


In 1861 alluvial gold was discovered along the Shotover River valley in heart of New Zealand’s Otago province. Within months the remote hinterland’s population grew from 12,000 to 27,000 as men flocked to the goldfields in the desperate hope of finding their fortune. Throughout the region temporary canvas towns (tent cities), hair-raising roads, and ramshackle wooden buildings sprang up across the landscape. None was more famous than Skippers and its deep, narrow canyon with vertigo-inducing rock walls.


One and half centuries later all that remains of this pioneering era is a rugged gravel road and a handful of lovingly restored buildings. While staying in Queenstown, Garry and I booked a half-day 4WD tour of Skippers Canyon. We spent four hours in dazzling sunshine, winding our way along this infamous New Zealand road soaking in its dramatic scenery. I’ve always wanted to drive the Skippers Road, so yesterday’s excursion was another bucket list moment.


Our group consisted of five people. We were also on our own rather than part of a larger convoy. As a result, we made good time, arriving at Skippers restored stone schoolhouse before the afternoon crowd. We ultimately had the entire location to ourselves for almost 45 minutes. As we drive away, a dust cloud clad convey of at least ten 4WD SUVs came roaring into view. Our guide later told us that our private experience was almost unheard of at this time of year i.e. peak Summer tourist season.


Our small group also meant we had time to squeeze in a few extra activities. Highlights included a solo walk along the length of the famous Skipper’s Canyon suspension bridge and a brief river-bashing drive along the nearby Arrow River (which marks the start of the even more remote and rugged Macetown road).


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