Market Day

We’ve just spent the day with I’m International, Artiwood’s largest supplier in Thailand. Our gracious hosts kept us busy with meetings, a factory tour and a few unexpected side trips. The factory is located about two hours west of Bangkok, so our day started early with a hotel pick-up shortly after 6:30am.

Before we got down to business, our hosts took us on a brief sightseeing excursion. By chance, two of Bangkok’s most famous markets, the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and the Maeklong Railway Market, are located near their factory. Sadly, the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market proved little more than a kitsch tourist venture. However, the railway market proved more authentic despite the selfie-stick-wielding masses (and ‘yes’ the train really does glide past inches from your nose).

The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market sits along the Damnoen Saduak Canal. This 32km arrow-straight waterway was built by order of King Rama IV in 1866-1868 and connects the Mae Klong and Tha Chin Rivers. At the time, roads were few and far between; instead, canals surrounded Bangkok were the main transportation network. 

Along the Damnoen Saduak Canal, local villages have dug more than 200 ancillary canals, many of which host floating markets. Like any market, they acted as a daily gathering place for local traders touting fresh produce, clothing and homeware. However, you access each market stall by water rather than land.

We arrived at the floating market shortly after 8:30am, well before all the minivan tours arrived. As a result, we saw fewer tourists and more locals going about their day. Our hosts hired a traditional flat bottomed longboat, propelled by a friendly man with a short paddle to take us around the market.

We spent an hour gliding silently along canals, watching traders set up shop and catching glimpses of daily life. These days, the stalls are built on concrete platforms that line both sides of the canal. Although every so often, a gap would open, revealing the stallholders’ wooden homes on stilts in the background.

Every morning stall owners pull up a corrugated iron shutter, that doubles as a shade awning, to reveal their tiered displays. We quickly learned that a boat hook suddenly appears if you express an interest in their wares. Then, before you know it, your boat is pulled dockside for a closer look

During our boat ride we stopped at a local coconut sugar distillery to watch two men converting sap of coconut flower buds into a thick crystalline toffee. Apparently coconut sugar is a common sweeter in these parts. We watched them boiling off extracted sap and whisking the resulting toffee-like concentrate with an implement the size of an oar.

The tourist hordes began pulling up as our boat tour finished. This allowed us to capture a few iconic images of the boat-filled waterways from land, without the aquatic jousting that typically accompanies your boat ride. As you can see above, the Damnoen Saduak Canal is an impressive sight, stretching towards the horizon in both directions.

The Maeklong Railway Market was unforgettable. Garry and I were stunned to discover that the market is situated along a track leading into the local railway station. A train arrives and departs the station three times daily. Shortly after leaving the station it traverses a passageway between buildings. The Railway Market is crammed into this narrow gap.

For about 300 metres stalls line the passageway shaded by retractable awnings overhead. Visitors make their way through the market by literally walking along the railway line. Garry and I walked the market’s full length, watching the locals go about their business. Unlike the floating market, souvenirs were few and far between. Instead we saw all manner of fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and household goods for sale.

The, at the appointed time, we joined hundreds of others to witness the stalls lifting their awnings as the train glided through the market and into the station. We literally stood inches from the side of the train as its carriages rattled past; an unbelievable experience.

The rest of our day was spent in meetings discussing quality control, safety compliance and product development, followed by a comprehensive factory tour. It’s magic walking among stacks of timber in a warehouse at one end of the complex, and then witnessing finished products undergoing inspection at the other.

Our long day finished with dinner in Bangkok with our host and their family. They’re preparing to launch a new pet toy range. I wonder if we’ve found our next big thing for Artiwood?

Getting high in Bangkok

Garry and I have arrived safely in Bangkok. We're here for the week on business. Our flight from Sydney took almost nine hours. It’s currently operated by Finnair using Airbus A330s under contract for Qantas. This is the first time we've flown Finnair. Its business class seating is a little different. It uses “sky couchs” rather than reclining seats.

We're staying at the Banyan Tree hotel in central Bangkok. The hotel's claim to fame is a stunning rooftop restaurant and accompanying cocktail bar.  Both venues are located 61 floors above the city's bustling streets and offer an uninterrupted view of the surrounding area. It’s also walking distance to the Si Lom Road central shopping district.

Garry and I naturally decided to give both rooftop venues a go. Last night, we toasted our arrival with cocktails at Moon Bar. We were lucky enough to secure a corner table looking across the city towards the Chao Phraya River, and witnessed a stunning sunset.

This evening we dined at Vertigo, located at the opposite end of the roof. Once again, the gods smiled upon us and we were given a corner table with an uninterrupted view. The meal was superb and the view of Bangkok at night was truly Instagram-worthy.

Wild about Sydney

We’ve just spent a night at the Zoo with my brother Matt and sister-in-law Shelley. Surprisingly, for us jaded Sydney-siders, the sleepover was an unexpected delight. I’ve lived in Sydney for more than 35 years. As a result, there aren’t many tourist outings we haven’t tried.

Last November, Garry and I attended a Christmas Party in the N’Galawa Terrace, an event space at Taronga Zoo offering stunning harbour views. We learned that the complex includes an upmarket boutique hotel called The Wilderness Retreat and an acclaimed restaurant.

Guests attending the event were offered a 30 percent discount for a mid-week stay. On a whim, I decided to book a package for us and our kiwi guests. I’m so glad I did. Our package included a room with harbour views, meals at Me Gal restaurant (with the same stunning view), private guided tours of several Australian animal enclosures and two days of unlimited Zoo access.

We kicked off our two-day extravaganza with a superb lunch at the Boatshed on Balmoral Beach. It’s been more than 25 years since I last visited Balmoral for a business lunch at the much-acclaimed Bathers Pavilion. Lunch this time around wasn’t as lavish but was equally memorable. We secured an outdoor table looking directly out over the local marina dock. 

Before lunch, we made the most of the sunshine by walking the beachside promenade. Our stroll included Rocky Point Island, a small outcrop accessible via an old turn-of-the-last-century arched bridge. It’s easy to forget how blessed we are with so many Instagram-worthy beauty spots in Sydney.

It was then on to the Retreat. The reception and central lounge at check-in caught us all by surprise. This communal space offers floor-to-ceiling views across Sydney Harbour while enjoying a leisurely cocktail or two. We then joined a private tour of an Australian wildlife sanctuary that wraps around the complex, before venturing into the Zoo proper to see the koalas and other native animals doing their thing.

 

We finish the day with champagne and nibbles in the treetop suite that Garry and I booked, followed by dinner at Me Gal. As sunset approached, one of the hotel staff invited us to the top-floor event space for uninterrupted views of the harbour aglow in the crimson light. It was truly magnificent, as was the view of the city lights we enjoyed over dinner. 

The following morning, we rose early for a private tour of the Australian native bird aviary and nearby marsupial enclosures. Highlights included my first sighting of a Regent Honeyeater bird, rock wallabies bounding across the aviary’s rock face and a kangaroo joey suckling on its mother. The bird sighting was special in part because Garry’s parents have lived on a street called Regent Honeyeater Grove for the last five years.

We then enjoyed breakfast at Me Gal, which offered another stunning view of Sydney Harbour by day. The remainder of our time was spent exploring Taronga Zoo before venturing back across the harbour mid-afternoon. Matt and Shelley were also lucky enough to pull back their curtains that morning and be greeted by a koala quietly contemplating them in a tree outside.

Honestly, the zoo excursion exceeded all expectations. The views were iconic, and the atmosphere at The Retreat was relaxing to say the least. By the time we arrived home, it felt like we’d had a week away. Who knew such a memorable outing existed right on our doorstep?

Bangkok countdown

We're counting down to our next business trip. Eight days from now we're off to Thailand. We're visiting one of our largest suppliers and reviewing their factory near Bangkok. The last time we inspected their operation was 2016. 

I was seriously ill during our trip nine years ago. While we enjoyed an awesome view of the Chao Phraya River from our hotel room (see the photo posted), sadly, I spent much of my time in bed with a fever and chest infection. When we arrived back in Sydney, I took to my bed and slept for almost three days.

Hopefully we'll have better luck this time despite the tragic aftermath of this week's earthquake in neighbouring Myanmar. However, before we fly, my brother and sister-in-law are dropping by for a week. We have lots of fun activities planned for Matt and Shelley. Watch this space.

Dual citizenship

This morning, my calendar popped up with an anniversary reminder. It's 32 years since I became a dual citizen. Living in Australia and becoming an Australian citizen was never the grand plan for my life. Instead, thanks to a fortuitous set of circumstances, I came to live here.

Back then, becoming an Australian citizen was a relatively simple exercise, at least for New Zealanders. I completed an application, paid a relatively modest fee and attended a brief screening interview. A few months later, I received a letter advising that my application was approved. I duly attended a citizenship ceremony in the Hornsby Council Chambers and officially became an Australian on 29 March 1993.

These days, the process takes a year or more, costs a small fortune, and involves a mountain of paperwork, police checks, medical examinations, and other bureaucratic hurdles. I still vividly recall my screening interview at an office in Chatswood. 

I remember sitting in a waiting room filled with people. Most of the applicants that day were of Asian descent. I was one of the only Caucasians in the room. The interviewer emerged from an interview room and called my name, noting I was a New Zealand citizen. She breathed a sigh of relief and predicted a quick meeting. Apparently, I'd get her back on schedule. I was asked about my English proficiency, criminal record, and a few other details I can't recall. My interview then concluded.

A few months later, my friend Michele attended my citizenship ceremony. It seemed apt that she was there, given her pivotal role helping me settle in Australia. Afterwards, we enjoyed a remarkably unmemorable afternoon tea with local councillors before heading out for a celebration dinner.

My motivation for becoming a dual citizen was relatively straightforward. After living in Australia for 2.5 years, I could see myself settling into a comfortable life. I couldn't imagine returning permanently to New Zealand any time soon. Hence, I didn't want a future Government or legislative change to hinder my ability to live or retire unconstrained in Australia. Once I discovered I could hold dual citizenship and thus maintain my New Zealand identity, becoming an Australian was an easy decision.

32 years later, I have no regrets. My Australian life has been blessed (just read this blog!). Australia has been good to me.

One final image that encapsulates my decision to settle in Australia. This photo was taken in Kuring-gai Chase National Park on the northern outskirts of Sydney. During my early years in Australia, I often caught the train to Berowra or Mount Kuring-gai and went bushwalking. The scenic spot shown above is Waratah Bay. It lies at the end of the Waratah Gully on the Berowa Track. 

It was here, by that rock, where I contemplated my future after being made redundant from IBM in 1991. At the time, I had a critical decision to make. Should I return to New Zealand after living in Sydney for nine months, or should I stay and look for a new job? I ultimately decided that day that I wanted to stay and build a life in Australia. The rest, as they say, is history.

UPDATE: 1 July

Last night, Auntie Pam answered a question that’s always bugged me. For years, my mother was unhappy with my decision to become a dual citizen. She made her displeasure abundantly clear. I never understood why. From my perspective, I never rejected the nationality of my birth; I’d simply gained a second one. Pam explained that Mum disliked it simply because it meant I was “never coming back”. She hated the thought of her firstborn living permanently so far from home.

The 1.9 percent club

I read today that the Antarctic tourism season is drawing to a close for another year. The season typically runs from mid-October to early April. The last season, ending April 2024, saw a record number of visitors. 124,262 people visited the Antarctic, with 80,251 making at least one shore landing, albeit on an offshore island or the continent itself.

These stats made me curious about the year Garry and I visited the white continent. We flew to King George Island and cruised the Antarctic Peninsula in the Summer of 2010-11. Interestingly, the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) publishes a report at the end of every season. According to its report, the season we visited recorded 19,065 landings. Another 14,373 passengers cruised in the region without making landfall. Ten per cent of these travellers were Australians.

By the end of the 2010-11 season, it's estimated that around 450,000 tourists had landed in Antarctica since tourism started in the late 1960s. Including the season of our visit, only 304,811 tourists had done so since records began in 1992. Less than 7,000 were visiting annually before 1992, hence the lifetime figure of less than half a million. 

I was surprised to learn that only 531 people participated in air-cruise voyages including Garry and me. Only two vessels were supporting these visitors, Ocean Nova the ship we sailed on, and a smaller 12-passenger motor yacht. Apparently, the year before, only 345 people had arrived in Antarctica this way. As for our vessel, 501 passengers that sailed on her flew across the Drake Passage. This was the first year Antarctica 21, the company we cruised with, flew more than 500 people in a single season. It seems we were very much tourism pioneers.

As an aside, I’ve also read that in the years since our tour, only one other flight has been delayed three days like we were. If I understood the data correctly, this was the group that came after us as they were also delayed three days. Apparently, four flights have been delayed longer. Antarctica 21 has operated 310 flights up to April 2024. This means we were one of only six flights, or 1.9%, that experienced a significant delay. How lucky are we!