Boxing Day in Moscow

Our train from Pskov pulled into Moscow’s Leningradsky station shortly after 6:00am on Boxing Day. Outside large, fluffy snow flakes were steadily falling. We couldn’t believe we’d missed our Russian White Christmas by less than six hours.

However our first taste of Moscow didn’t disappoint. As we exited the station we found ourselves engulfed by sights and sounds reminiscent of a classic Cold War movie. Despite the early hour dozens and dozens of people, clad in long drab overcoats and fur hats; were bustling all directions along the snow blanketed streets.

Nearby the faint silhouette of Leningradskaya Hotel, one of Stalin’s famous Seven Sister skyscrapers, soared skyward. To our left and right imposing Soviet-style Government buildings cast dull shadows in the hazy street lights. An aging train rattled across a nearby overpass. Around us fellow travllers hauled large suitcases and trunks through the drifting snow.

Our transfer to the enormous Izmailovo Hotel complex took more than an hour despite being located less than 8 kilometres away. However, most of this time was taken up simply driving around the block to reach a designated car park next to our hotel. Earlier as we’d approached the hotel’s main entrance army personnel had stopped our bus driver from parking out front.

We later learned that our arrival coincided with an annual Children's Festival in Red Square. This former Soviet event brings children in from all corners of the nation for a spectacular mass performance event staged in front of the Kremlin. During the Soviet era it was considered a great honour for your child to be chosen to attend.

Today the event is as prestigious as ever. However, the children of local communist party officials have long since been replaced by those of Russia's wealthiest families. Many of the children attending this year’s event were staying at our hotel and as a result security was tighter than normal.

Buses sit waiting to transport thousands of children to Red Square.
Each driver is dressed as Santa.

Our hotel was part of a five-building complex built for the Summer Olympic Games in 1980. The interior has a distinstive 80s feel. It origins were also evident as you exited the building. Etched in the pavement’s mosaic tiles were the Olympic rings. With more than 3000 rooms, it’s Europe's largest hotel complex. The Soviets also went to great lengths to create a venue offering decor and service that emulated Western standards. The hotel was signficantly more Western than any of the typical "Soviet-style" hotels we stayed in elsewhere.


After breakfast and a refreshing shower, our tour group set off for a walking tour of central Moscow. Sadly, Red Square was blocked off due to the Children's festivities. However we were able to see the walls of the Kremlin framed by snow and experience other inner city sights. My initial impression of Moscow was one of architectural choas. Buildings were in odd places. Styles clashed. One was left with a visual state of confusion.


After lunch inside the genuinely impressive GUM department store (which is really an indoor mall with a glass roof), we set off for an afternoon tour of the Kremlin. This was a real highlight. As we wandered through the internal couryards it was hard to comprehend that such a feat would have been impossible 20 years ago. Here I was inside the heart of the old Soviet Union.


The Kremlin offered one spectacle after another, starting with the Kutafya entrance tower. You reach this entrance by crossing a gently sloping, arched red brick ramp. Inside you're immediately confronted by a bland Soviet-era building, the State Kremlin Palace. To either side are more appropriately styled 17th Century yellow stone buildings, one of which Stalin had moved from its previous location outside the Kremlin walls.


Our tour lead us past the over-sized Tsar Cannon and Tsar Bell. The cannon weighs 40 tonnes, has a bore of 89cms and was cast in 1586. The bell, the world's largest, weighs a staggering 202 tonnes. A large, 11 tonne chunk has broken away from the side of bell, the result of a casting accident.


We visited the Archangel Cathedral, the coronation place for Russia's Tsars. Here also are the tombs of Russian leaders from the 1320 to 1690, including Ivan the Terrible. As you'd expect, the Iconstatis wall was spectacular. We also toured the neighbouring Assumption Cathedral, topped with five enormous gold domes.


Our Kremlin tour ended was a visit to the Armoury. Here are displayed many of the nation's most stunning treasures. Once again we were confronted by the staggering wealth amassed by the Tsars. We saw gilded thrones, state carriages (more ornately carved than most European cathedrals), crowns encrusted with precious stones, Faberge eggs, silver thread embroidered coronation dresses and rooms stuffed with precious metal gifts offered by visiting ambassadors. It's clear that Europe's aristocracy was determined to out do each other in their efforts to impress the Tsars. I've never seen a building filled with so much ostentatious wealth.



We finished our tour of the Kremlim by wandering through the snow covered grounds of Alexandrovsky Garden, nestled beneath the Kremlin's towering walls. As darkness felt we watched the Kremlin begin to glow as powerful floodlights took hold. We felt we'd truly arrived in Russia. Another postcard moment.


The following day, Garry and I ventured out of Moscow and headed north to Star City , home of the Russian Space program.