Circus of childhood dreams

Our last night in Moscow was spent at the Nikulin Circus on Tsvetnoy Bulvar. I can only describe the experience as that of a childhood fantasy come to life. At times the evening felt like a scene from a Baz Luhrmann Moulin Rouge sound stage.

The circus inself is staged in a purpose-built circular auditorium. Outside sits a life-size statue of famous Russian clown, Yury Nikulin, inviting children to sit in an equally life-size bronze car. Our tour guide described him as Russia's most famous drunk. Inside we encountered a sea of young children being entertained by surreal sideshow encounters.


Throughout the main lobby clowns crafted balloon animals, candy floss vendors touted overflowing trays and an array of animal exhibits offered astounding photo opportunities. Children wandered by with large colourful balloons, shaped like mini-Macy parade floats. At one point I watched a tiger lounge on low podium while small childern were arranged around it for flash photography.

At first I thought the animal was mechanical, that is until the nearby trainer encouraged it to open wide thus enabling him to insert his head between the tiger's gaping jaw. Elsewhere, photo opportunities were being offered with Elephants, immaculate show poodles and a monkey dressed in red bowler hat and tuxedo.


The circus itself was an equally colourful spectacle, but lacked the slick production quality of organsations like Cirque du Soleil. However, there were moments when a circus of childhood dreams came to life. Highlights included Elephants balancing on rolling cylinders, bears dancing on their hind paws and a nimble woman swirling on cotton swathes high above the audience. I doubt we'll ever see another circus quite like it.