Here comes the sun

We’re off to Oman in the morning. I’ve been doing a little research in preparation, trying to learn more about this exotic location. If I’m honest, we selected Muscat because it was likely to be warm and could be included on the annual round-the-world tickets we’ve been buying. Our flight with British Airways is actually an extension of it direct flight to Abu Dhabi. Beyond these facts, Oman was a blank page.

I've been surpised to learn that, unlike so many other Middle East nations, the Sultanate of Oman has been self-governing for more than 250 years. Its ruling Sultans trace their origin back to 1741 when a group of invading Yemeni tribesmen defeated the incumbent Al-Yarubi dynasty. This earlier dynasty had in turn replaced the Portuguese who’d occupied Muscat and the surrounding area for 140 years.

The Portuguese arrived shortly after Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to India in 1498. This new, lucrative trade had to be protected. Muscat was seized less than nine year after da Gama returned to Lisbon. A large, fortified city rapidly took shape. More fortification spread along much of the rugged Omani coastline in the centuries that followed. Today its coast is dotted by numerous large, imposing stone forts. We’re hoping to see a few of them ourselves over the next week or so.

Muscat is by far the nation’s largest urban centre, with approximately 700,000 people in the surrounding area. Almost all of the nation’s wealth is founded on oil. However, the nation’s reserves aren’t substantial resulting in efforts to develop an alternative economic base. Tourism has been targeted for development. However, unlike its glitzy neighbour, Dubai, Oman is actively courting a more upmarket crowd. This was very much evident when I began researching hotels for our vacation. Most venues were five-star establishments, with service and prices to match.


Perhaps the most legendary of the nation’s hotel is Al-Bustan Palace, set in its own secluded cove surrounded by stunning, stark and barren mountains (see the image above). The hotel was originally built to host a Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) summit in 1985. Last week it completed a massive refurbishment that had seen it close down for more than a year.

I naively assumed they might be offering bargain rates in an attempt to rebuild lost trade. Imagine my horror when I discovered the cheapest room was at least £315/night. No bargain there! We eventually secured a hotel in town offering a seaview room with breakfast, afternoon canapes and other delights for significantly less.

The weather looks promising. We’ll arrive to a temperature of 22°C, which is forecast to rise steadily throughout the week to a high of 26°C by the time we leave. Overnight lows will dip to 20°C. The forecast chart also shows a continuous row of sunshine for ten days. I couldn’t think of anything better! We’ve had cold, drab, damp weather for much of this week in London. Who wants to put money on our vacation being extended after we arrive?