Antigua

Our Caribbean cruise is off to a great start. Our first port of call today didn’t disappoint. We docked early this morning in St John’s, the capital of Antigua and Barbuda. It’s a colourful waterfront town set at the head of a sheltered harbour. As we sailed into Deepwater Bay, we passed several colonial forts standing vigil on the headlands.

Antigua was first surveyed by Christopher Columbus in 1493. The Spanish unsuccessfully attempted to establish a settlement in 1520. However, it remained uncolonized until the British arrived in 1632. Neighbouring Barbuda was colonised in 1685. The British grew tobacco and sugar on the islands, worked by a large slave population transported from West Africa, who soon came to vastly outnumber the European settlers.

The English maintained control of the islands for centuries after successfully repulsing a French attack in 1666. We’re fast learning that the islands of the Caribbean were fought over regularly and constantly invaded by warring European powers. Apparently, most islands have had more than one colonial master over the last five hundred years. The islands finally gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1981.

Antigua was once home to the British Royal Navy’s Caribbean fleet. The fleet’s headquarters and primary base were in the English Harbour Dockyard, a sheltered and well-protected deepwater port on the island’s southern coast. Admiral Horatio Nelson was regularly based here. Much of the infrastructure still visible today was built during the late 18th Century. The Royal Navy abandoned the dockyard in 1889, and it fell into decay. It’s been lovingly restored since 1951 and is now one of Antigua’s most popular tourist attractions.

This morning, we joined a tour of the dockyard. Our guide walked us around its colonial stone structures, explaining their historical functions. Perhaps the most picturesque of these is the massive stone pillars lining the slipway of the former Boat House & Sail Loft. The pillars once supported sails as they were being cleaned and prepared for use. 

It blows my mind to think we literally walked in Lord Nelson's footsteps. Likewise, I marvelled at the fact that this was an island Columbus once saw. Once again, just as we did living in London, we're discovering that history is real and that these faraway places in our history books actually exist.

After tasting some local rum, our tour headed for the nearby headlands to explore the Blockhouse and soak in the view from Shirley Heights. Colonial fortifications, some lovingly restored, others not so much, were visible everywhere. The view of English Harbour and its craggy coastline was simply breathtaking. A real highlight. If the rest of our cruise looks like this, we’re in for a treat.

Once our tour was done, we spent an hour wandering the Heritage Quay Complex along the waterfront. This restored shopping precinct is filled with flamingo-pink and baby-blue painted Georgian buildings, some in stone and others in timber. It was a colourful experience.

Today’s fun fact. Eight Caribbean territories operate a jointly owned central bank that issues the Eastern Caribbean dollar as local currency. Its polymer notes have a similar look and feel to those of the Australian dollar. All its members are former British colonies (or are still British Overseas Territories). As a result, one side features a portrait of Queen Elizabeth. 

We’ve been reassured that every island accepts US dollars, so there's no urgent need to convert any banknotes. The French or Dutch territories also accept Euros. Antiguans love the cricketer, Sir Vivian Richards. He's a local legend. We've seen his portrait on billboards and banknotes everywhere we've gone. The local cricket stadium is also named after him.

Today’s weather was a steamy 28 °C with mainly blue skies. Garry and I decided to make the most of it. After our tour, we returned to the boat for lunch and dined by the pool on BBQ lobster tails and shrimp. Delicious!