Islands of the Saints

Les Saintes, Guadeloupe, is the most scenic, Instagram-friendly port we’ve visited thus far in the Caribbean. If I were a betting man, I doubt we’ll experience anything better. It really was one of a kind. It’s easy to imagine how this heavenly place, a string of nine picturesque islands, earned its name, which translates as “Island of the Saints”. The name was given by Christopher Columbus, who encountered this cluster of islands during his second voyage to the New World in 1493.

Our cruise ship dropped anchor around 7:30 in the most breathtaking location. We sat in a sheltered channel separating the main island of Terre-de-Haut and the smaller uninhabited island of Ilet a Cabrit. In the background sat the archipelago’s only other inhabited island, Terre-de-Bas. The coastline was dotted with beaches, soaring cliffs, and gently sloping hills.

The scene that greeted us at breakfast was straight out of a movie. Terre-de-Haut is dominated by a town with the same name. The postcard-perfect Terre-de-Haut township is filled with white-walled homes, capped by red roofs, that line the shoreline and flow up surrounding hills covered in lush and vibrant greenery. Overlooking the town stands Fort Napoléon des Saintes, an imposing colonial fortification with sturdy stone ramparts and defensive walls. Garry and I naturally dined on the outdoor deck and soaked in the view.

We later learned that an ordinance issued by the town’s mayor a century ago required locals to paint their homes white and red. We were told the mandate wasn’t compulsory. However, any home finished in an alternative colour palette was subject to a special levy. The ordinance was revoked years ago. However, local pride continues to maintain the tradition.

After breakfast, we took a tender to shore and joined a minivan excursion that took us along the harbourfront filled with lovingly restored fishermen’s cottages and up to Fort Napoléon. The fort has a fascinating history. As we’re rapidly learning, like many Caribbean islands, it’s had more than one colonial master over time. From 1759 to 1763, the English took possession of Les Saintes and part of mainland Guadeloupe. The archipelago was returned to France upon the signing of the Treaty of Paris on February 10, 1763. It’s remained an overseas French territory ever since.

 

To ensure its protection, the French built a fort overlooking the township to repel another British invasion. This relatively simple fortification was subsequently rebuilt after the European Seven-Year War ended in 1814. The new structure, what's visible today, featured high surrounding walls and a new powder magazine. These days, the central keep contains an impressive museum. Its exhibits tell the story of the island’s history, its native flora and fauna and the culture of its indigenous and former slave population.

The view from Fort Napoléon’s ramparts was simply stunning. As you can see from the video above, it offers visitors an uninterrupted view of the township, the harbour and the surrounding islands. My photos barely do the scene justice. One unexpected highlight was the blooming barrel cacti in the fort’s succulent garden. Our local guide claims this cactus only blooms every few years. We were lucky to see such impressive specimens. We also spotted several very fat and happy iguanas warming themselves in the morning sun.

We then returned to the township where our guide took us on a walking tour through the town’s main square and over a low-crested hill to its white-washed cemetery. Here we saw one of the island’s unique rituals. The graves of local fishermen are often framed by large seashells rather than marble slabs.

The group then retraced its steps back into town, where the tour concluded with a visit to the Church of Terre-de-Haut. I loved the shrine to fishermen at the back of the church. It's all too easy to forget that fishing was once the primary industry in these islands before the arrival of the Europeans, and the present-day impact of mass tourism. 

As we sat in the pews, our guide regaled us with a local love story before finally sending us on our way. Much to our surprise, he concluded the tour abruptly after receiving a call advising him that his next group was waiting on the dock. Equally surprising, he didn’t stop to collect a tip on the way out, as is the practice everywhere we go. Americans have ruined travel for the rest of us. Instead, as a retired man, he seemed genuinely keen to just share his local culture. 

Garry and I went shopping for a few souvenirs, including a mandatory shot glass. In the end, we not only bought glassware but also picked up a colourful ceramic gecko and a decorated native wooden drum. Sadly, the gecko is made in China. We finished our time on shore with a wander along the waterfront to a local beach where the locals were gearing up for an influx of day-trippers from the main island of Guadeloupe.

This evening, our ship held a farewell event as half the passengers will be disembarking tomorrow in Phillipsburg. Some time ago, we discovered that the 14-day cruise we’d booked was in fact two seven-day voyages sold under a single combined booking code. I originally booked the cruise because I’d never seen such a comprehensive itinerary, including so many ports, at such a great price. We now know why it was such a rare gem. We heard today that at least 180 passengers, about half of the guests, will continue on the same 14-day itinerary.

The festive farewell event in the Show Lounge included a farewell address from our Italian captain, plus a parade of flag-waving crew from all around the boat. This included some of the engineering team and others working behind the scenes. The Silversea Singers and Dancers then launched into a Motown-themed show.

It's hard to believe we're almost halfway through our cruise. The verdict so far?  We're loving it!