St. Lucia

St. Lucia is one Caribbean island that’s been on my bucket list for decades. The island is famous for the verdant green peaks of its iconic volcanic twin peaks called The Pitons. These perfectly conical ancient lava plugs inevitably feature in almost any travel story about the Caribbean. St. Lucia also promotes itself as a luxurious tropical playground for the rich and famous. For me, it encapsulated the region's beauty and glamour.

Sadly, the reality has proven somewhat different. This morning, we docked in Castries, the island’s capital and largest town. Our board arrived early, but by the time we went for breakfast, another two massive cruise ships had arrived in port. Months ago, I booked us on a full-day excursion along the island’s jungle-clad west coast to the picturesque town of Soufriere.

Our minibus departed shortly after 9:00am. As we drove through town, it quickly became clear that this was no luxurious haven. The streets were cluttered, and the buildings a little ramshackle. We passed by the waterfront Castries Market, a popular tourist destination, without stopping. The market’s buildings honestly looked a little worse for wear. Our first two ports, Antigua and St Thomas, looked far more organised than Castries. It was clear we had reset our expectations regarding St Lucia.

One positive highlight was a sculpture of four rowers set in a roundabout on the harbourfront. Called "All in", it serves as a national monument representing unity and struggle, symbolising that "we all can pick ourselves up by the bootstraps. It was created by renowned artist Jallim Eudovic and unveiled in October 2019.

Castries is nestled in an enclosed harbour framed by steep hills. As a result, our bus began climbing out of town via a narrow, winding road with more than one hair-raising switchback corner. As we climbed, we were briefly rewarded with some spectacular views of the scenic harbour and a brief glimpse at the summit of the Governor General’s lavish colonial homestead hidden behind ornate metal gates.

Our guide explained that St Lucia is a rather mountainous island covered in dense rainforest for much of its length. As a result, our route south comprised of winding roads dropping and rising again through valley after valley. As we drove, we were treated to scenes of lush tropical rainforest at every turn. Highlights along the way included acres of banana plantations in the Roseau Valley and tiny villages filled with colourfully painted houses.

Our tour stopped briefly in the small fishing village of Anse La Raye. It was a picturesque beachside location filled with more colourful buildings and rows of fishing dinghies hauled up along the shore. Sadly, it appears that every tour stops here. As a result, the place was swarming with tourists, and souvenir touts were everywhere. I felt sorry for the locals. As best I can tell, they endure this morning hour of madness most days, before their laidback island life continues unabated. It wasn’t my proudest moment as one of these passing tourists.

As is fast becoming the established pattern on our tours, we stopped at a local tourist trap to sample the local rum. Horizon Cocktails View Point didn't disappoint. The selection of infused rum on display was spectacular. The view across the valley, less so. Out front, they sell warm, fresh banana bread by the slice. It is very good. Less sugar than typical banana bread, letting the taste of fresh bananas shine through. Yum!

It took more than two hours to reach Soufriere. As we approached the town, our minivan stopped briefly at a steep roadside lookout to capture some iconic photos of the Pitons. The mountains were as impressive in real life as they appear in holiday brochures. I later talked our tour guide into taking a brief detour along the town’s waterfront so that I could capture them at sea level. Surprisingly, nobody else joined from the bus. It's my favourite image of the Pitons.

Our tour included a guided walk through Soufriere’s botanical gardens. Our guide pointed out spice after spice in bloom or awaiting harvest. I loved the display of nutmeg. The walk culminated in a brief detour to view the Diamond Falls. The falls take their name from dazzling mineral deposits lining their rock face and stream beds. The cascade’s water flows from rich mineral hot springs further up the valley.

Lunch was hosted nearby in the hall of a former sugar mill. We subsequently learned that the area, known as Soufrière Estate, is one of the oldest and best-preserved estates in Saint Lucia and was originally part of a 2000-acre land grant to the Devaux family by King Louis XIV of France in 1713. In 1740, the three Devaux brothers came to St. Lucia to claim the land, which at that time encompassed the mill and the present site of Soufrière township, as well as Diamond Falls and the Sulphur Springs that fed it.

After lunch, our tour made its way back to the boat, arriving back in port around 3:00pm. Garry and I debated going back into town for a wander. We decided against it after being underwhelmed by our earlier drive through town. However, our time in St. Lucia has ended on a high note. Sunset over Castries this evening was simply beautiful. The island’s natural beauty certainly didn’t disappoint. That’s another tick on the bucket list.