Tuesday, September 19, 2023

The list goes on


I’ve recently mastered the art of creating HTML tables in my blog posts. You can see the fruits of my labour here and here. These pioneering efforts have inspired me to create a table listing every country and territory I’ve visited, along with the date of my visit. Below is my final masterpiece.

For now, I’ve kept my dates simple and have listed them as MM/YY. These were relatively easy to source thanks to passport stamps, blog posts and travel documents I’ve kept on file. However, it’ll take a lot of archive searching to pin down an exact date for some locations, so I’ll save this refinement for another day.


I’ve also included a short list of countries that I’ve technically visited i.e., I’ve crossed the border into their sovereign territory. However, I’ve not counted them because I never left the airport, got off a bus or ventured more than a few feet into the country. Years ago, I set some minimum thresholds for counting a country, or territory, on my list. Two or more of the following must occur for it to be counted:
  1. leave the airport or port of entry,
  2. eat a meal in a local establishment i.e., do more than sleep in a hotel,
  3. visit one or more local sights or participate in a recognised local activity (and it must be more than just a statue outside the airport gate),
  4. sleep overnight in a venue outside the airport (excluding transit stops if I never leave the hotel).
Over the years these rules have resulted in some quirky “non-compliant” visits. For example, my first visit to Jordan occurred courtesy of Royal Jordanian Airlines in June 1990. I was travelling with a group from Singapore to Vienna, via Amman. Upon arrival in Jordan, we were bused to a transit hotel for a few hours of sleep before returning to the airport for our next flight. I’ve never counted this stopover. Instead, my first visit to Jordan is listed as December 2005 when Garry and I visited on an organised tour.


This same trip saw me visit Yugoslavia for the first time. Our flight from Amman to Vienna made a brief stop in Belgrade. We sat on the tarmac for less than an hour while the aircraft refuelled. Nobody joined or left the flight, and we weren't allowed to disembark. While we waited, the crew opened the front door of the aircraft to give us some fresh air. However, the security guards would quickly wave us away if we ventured too far up the aisle.

All in all, it was a rather odd flight. There were about ten of us on the plane, most of whom were part of the group I was travelling with. We were also accompanied by several security guards – three if I recall correctly. We were travelling on a Middle Eastern airline and tensions were high in the region. At the time, Saddam Hussein was threatening military action against Kuwait. He ultimately invaded the country two months later, in August 1990.

I also recall meeting a middle-aged woman who was flying alone. We got to talking and I learned that she was off to see her doctor in Europe as she simply didn’t trust the healthcare system in Jordan. This was my first taste of the decadent expat life on offer in the Middle East.  

For the more technically oriented, this flight was also the first and only time I've ever flown a Lockheed Tristar. Likewise, it was my first time flying business class. Our group was upgraded at the airport in Singapore. However, the upgrade ultimately offered little more than a larger seat with a deeper recline, and we were still served standard economy-class meals.


Likewise, until February 2016, I’d had the dubious distinction of visiting Thailand five times but never left the airport. On each occasion, my visits were merely transit stops while flying with Qantas to and from Europe. As you can see from the list I’ve also visited North Korea twice, but again, for less than an hour and only because I crossed a few metres into North Korean territory while on a tour of the DMZ, north of Seoul.

As for the visit to Paraguay, it occurred when my tour bus traversed the length of the Itaipu Dam. This dam straddles the Parana River marking the border between Paraguay and Brazil. The same river in turn feeds the spectacular Iguazu Falls.

Finally in case you’re curious, here’s a taste of my bucket list filled with places I’ve yet to explore. 

UPDATE: 24 April 2025
I've revised the table below to reflect a new holiday we've booked this week and one we've recently completed.

COUNT COUNTRY DATE
Europe
1 Austria Jun 1990
2 Belgium Jun 2008
3 Bosnia and Herzegovina (Yugoslavia) Jun 1990
4 Bulgaria Jul 1990
5 Croatia Oct 2009
6 Czech Republic Oct 1996
7 Denmark Aug 1990
8 Estonia May 2008
9 Finland May 2008
10 France Oct 1990
11 Germany (East & West) Aug 1990
12 Greece Aug 1990
13 Hungary Jun 1990
14 Iceland Apr 2008
15 Ireland Oct 2008
16 Italy Sep 1990
17 Liechtenstein Aug 1990
18 Malta Nov 2007
19 The Netherlands Oct 1990
20 Norway Aug 1990
21 Poland Feb 2019
22 Portugal Oct 2006
23 Republic of Macedonia (Yugoslavia) Aug 1990
24 Republic of Montenegro Oct 2009
25 Republic of Serbia (Yugoslavia) Jun 1990
26 Romania Jun 1990
27 Russia Dec 2006
28 Slovenia (Yugoslavia) Jun 1990
29 Spain Oct 1990
30 Sweden Sep 1990
31 Switzerland Aug 1990
32 Scotland Nov 1990
33 England Oct 1990
34 Wales May 2009
35 Vatican City Sep 1990
Central & South America
36 Antigua Jan 2026
37 Argentina Nov 2005
38 Barbados Jan 2026
39 Brazil Nov 2005
40 Chile Nov 1998
41 Dominica Jan 2026
42 Grenada Jan 2026
43 Guadeloupe Jan 2026
44 Martinique Jan 2026
45 Montserrat Jan 2026
46 Panama Aug 2008
47 Peru Oct 2005
48 St Barthelemy Jan 2026
49 St Lucia Jan 2026
50 Saint Martin (France) Jan 2026
51 Sint Maarten (The Netherlands) Jan 2026
52 St Vincent & The Grenadines Jan 2026
53 US Virgin Islands Jan 2026
Africa & Middle East
54 Egypt Nov 2005
55 Jordan Dec 2005
56 Morocco Oct 1990
57 Oman Dec 2008
58 South Africa Oct 1996
59 Turkey May 2007
60 United Arab Emirates Dec 2007
61 Zambia Oct 1996
62 Zimbabwe Oct 1996
North America
63 Canada Oct 1983
64 Mexico Aug 2008
65 USA Jul 1983
Oceania, Pacific & Antarctica
66 Antarctica Dec 2010
67 Australia Nov 1988
68 Cook Islands Sep 2023
69 Fiji Sep 2018
70 French Polynesia (Tahiti) Nov 1998
71 New Caledonia Jan 2024
72 New Zealand Born here
73 Samoa Sep 2024
74 Tonga Aug 2025
75 Vanuatu Jan 2024
Asia
76 China Oct 1998
77 Hong Kong Mar 2000
78 India Feb 2002
79 Indonesia May 2000
80 Japan Apr 1998
81 Macau Mar 2000
82 Malaysia Jul 2002
83 Singapore Nov 1990
84 South Korea Sep 2003
85 Taiwan Jan 2003
86 Thailand Feb 2016
Border Crossing (not officially visited)
87 North Korea (x2) Sep 2003
88 Paraguay Nov 2005
Scheduled trips
- Watch this space -
Sighted at ground level
89 Albania Sep 1990
90 Israel Dec 2005

Monday, September 04, 2023

Dancing in the 80s


I’ve just returned from a four-day weekend in New Zealand. I flew in to join my brothers and their families for an early celebration of Mum’s 80th birthday. The official date ticks over in less than three weeks. However, Garry and I will be in the Cook Islands at this time.

My quick jaunt across the Tasman got off to a superb start. I bid for a last-minute Premium Economy upgrade on Air New Zealand’s Boeing 777 flight. This was the best thing I could have done. I scored a bulkhead window seat with extra legroom and an empty seat beside me.


The Premium Economy cabin is surprisingly well-featured, offering space and comfort that was once the equal of business class in the pre-lie-flat bed era. As a result, I ended up enjoying at least twice the space as the herringbone-seated sardines in Business Class next door – with an equally impressive dining menu and considerably more privacy.


On Saturday we all enjoyed a fun-filled lunch at the Neighbourhood Kitchen in Tauranga. Mum was in fine form. She was full of beans, dancing little jigs, and highly animated all afternoon. She's actually dancing another jig in the group photo that opens this post. Mum even sang us a childhood song that none of us recognised or could recall hearing before. It really was lovely to see her in such good spirits.

Her sister, Pam, will be flying in from Christchurch to join the family for a second celebration later this month. I’m sure Mum will enjoy her second party just as much as the first.  Happy Birthday, Mum!


Mum and I also enjoyed a refreshing stroll on the boardwalk along Main Beach on Friday. Mum enjoyed herself immensely. In the end, by the time we were done, we'd walked almost 2kms. The weather also played its part. The highlight for me was discovering a New Zealand delicacy known as "Lollie Cake".  It's basically a classic cake batter filled with pick-and-mix sweets like Strawberries & CreamSmartiesand Jaffas.

On Sunday I took Mum to visit Dad's memorial plaque. It was Father's Day in New Zealand so this felt like an appropriate gesture. My brothers and I were a little unsure how Mum would react. These days we never know which memories remain sharp and strong. 

She definitely registered Dad’s name when I pointed it out. She read it aloud and said “ohhh…” as if she recognised it. However, that was the extent of the moment we shared. She then wandered off to read other plaques nearby. Dementia is a strange beast at the best of times.


Sunday, August 27, 2023

Country No.4


I first visited Australia in 1988. It became the fourth country on the list of those I’ve visited. I was flown to Sydney on 16 November by Procter & Gamble for a series of interviews after being shortlisted for its graduate intake program. At the time, I’d just finished the final exams required to complete my Bachelor of Management Studies at Waikato University. The US giant flew me and one other candidate across the Tasman to meet its senior executives and determine which of us would fill the single position on offer.

The company put us up in a hotel for three nights. We then endured two days of meetings, psychometric testing, and interviews at its Villawood campus in Western Sydney. I recall being taken for dinner at The Rocks one evening and enjoying a meal in one of the original sandstone buildings at Campbell Cove. It was quite the introduction to Sydney dining with the Opera House and Harbour Bridge as a backdrop.

I decided to extend my stay for another three nights at my own expense. I booked a homestay room with a couple living in Hunters Hill. I then spent my time exploring Sydney’s most iconic sights, including Bondi, Manly, and the recently opened Harbourside Mall at Darling Harbour. I also booked a day tour to Canberra and experienced my first taste of the Australian capital. I must admit that, given all this occurred in the pre-internet era, I don't know how on earth I managed to book a homestay.


Procter & Gamble offered me a sales role in New Zealand, rather than a graduate placement. I wasn’t surprised. During my final interview with the Managing Director, I expressed uncertainty about what I wanted to do with my career. At the time, I decided I’d be honest about my motivation on the basis that if they hired me, at least all parties knew where they stood.

However, I wasn’t interested in spruiking the benefits of soap and toothpaste to regional pharmacies. Instead, I flew home on 22 November, ready to spend a year working full-time on a friend’s dairy farm. My time on the farm ultimately set me on a path that saw me return to Australia 15 months later.

Little did I know that, as I flew into Sydney for a six-month training course in February 1990, my life would never be the same again. 33 years later, I never could have imagined that my graduate interview would become the first of hundreds of flights I’d eventually make in and out of Sydney’s Kingsford Smith Airport. This blog only captures a handful of them.

Sadly, I didn’t take any photos during my time in Sydney. As a result, I’ve scanned a few old photos of me at university to illustrate this post. I don’t see this guy spruiking acne cream anytime soon.

Saturday, August 26, 2023

Saturday in Macau


I've experimented with preparing a Kodak-era post. My chosen subject? Macau. It's taken more than five hours to research the following post, draft its copy, and then scan and edit all of the hard-copy photos. Converting my pre-digital photo albums into niffy blog posts is clearly going to be a massive project. I've always said that this task would become a retirement hobby. After today's effort, I think that boast has proven rather prescient. 

I visited Macau on a day trip from Hong Kong on Saturday, 18 March 2000. It was an interesting time to be visiting this former Portuguese colony. Just four months earlier, on 20 December 1999, Portugal had transferred the sovereignty of Macau to the People’s Republic of China. I was curious to see how much had changed since the handover.

I'd arrived in Hong Kong two days earlier. From the moment I landed the weather had been poor – or rather – the air pollution had been extreme, to say the least. Increasingly, as China's economy develops, the Pearl Delta was, and still is, frequently smothered by a dense blanket of smog in Winter. 

During my visit, the view of Kowloon from my company’s office simply vanished into the haze. This was all the more alarming given its location in Two International Finance Centre, a waterfront building overlooking Victoria Harbour's narrowest stretch.


I caught an early morning, high-speed hydrofoil ferry from the Sheung Wan terminal to Macau. The trip across the delta took just under an hour. Sadly, haze smothered the coast for much of the journey. Before arriving in Macau, I’d mapped out a comprehensive walking tour. The final route took me past most of the Special Administrative Region’s popular colonial highlights, plus a few sights commemorating the 1999 handover.


My first destination was Guia Fortress. This historic complex sits on Guia Hill, the highest point on the Macau peninsula. Its two most famous sights include the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guia and the Guia Lighthouse. The lighthouse was constructed between 1864 and 1865, making it the first Western-style lighthouse ever erected along the Chinese coast. Both buildings are painted brilliant white and finished with stunning mustard highlights. Sadly neither building was open to the public that day.


While on my way to Guia Hill, I took a brief detour to view the Arco Oriente. This 28-metre-high monument was erected in 1996 and sits above a major underpass on Ave. do Dr. Rodringo Rodriques. Its looping arch of steel portrays Macau as the intersection of Chinese and Portuguese cultures. It was built to commemorate the friendship between Portugal and China in the lead-up to the colony’s handover. Almost thirty years later it’s interesting to read the commentary online. Apparently, the monument is rusting, temporarily cordoned off, and generally despised by the locals.


The next stop on my walking tour was the picture-perfect, pastel-lime chapel of St Michael. Set in the beautiful, landscaped Catholic Cemetery, this small chapel, built in 1875, is one of Macau’s most iconic locations. I was surprised to learn that, despite appearances, this isn't Macau's oldest cemetery. In fact, it's one of its more recent colonial additions, having only been opened in 1854.


From here it was onwards to Fortaleza do Monte. This colonial fortress, on Mount Hill, overlooks Macau’s most famous sight, the Ruins of St Paul’s Cathedral. It also offered superb views of Macau’s densely populated districts and a spectacular view back towards St Miguel Arcanjo Cemetery.


However, without a doubt, the highlight of the day was my visit to St Paul’s Cathedral. Almost any mention of Macau includes an image of this iconic structure. It's an elaborate building, built between 1602 and 1640 by the Jesuits. At the time, it was one of the largest Catholic churches in Asia. It was destroyed by a fire during a typhoon on 26 January 1835. Today, all that remains standing, is its intricately carved southern stone façade.

 
The façade sits on a small hill and is reached by climbing 68 stone steps. It's decorated by carvings of Jesuit images with Oriental themes, such as The Blessed Virgin Mary stepping on a seven-headed hydra, described in Chinese characters as 'Holy Mother tramples the heads of the dragon'.

The façade is impressive, to say the least. Behind it, a series of carefully preserved stone stub walls outline the original building's footprint. A series of handy tourist plaques (in English) bring the structure of the building and its history to life. I spent almost an hour exploring the ruins before moving on to my next destination.


The Lonely Planet recommended a walk down Rue de São Paulo. This narrow, winding, cobblestone street is lined by beautifully restored colonial buildings. Each building is painted in pastel hues making for plenty of classic Instagram-worthy moments. Sadly, it’s one of the last remaining places where you can still experience the original look and feel of Macau’s colonial past.


My walking tour then took me towards the southwestern shores of the Macau peninsula. This included a stroll along Nam Van Lake. On the edge of this artificial waterway is the Macau Government Headquarters, another stunning colonial building, finished in elegant terracotta hues. It was once the Governor’s Residence. Today, it’s the official office of the Special Administrative Region’s Chief Executive.


My final tourist destination was Portas do Entendimento, also known as the Gate of Understanding. This rather austere monument, consisting of two concrete pillars, sits at the end of a short causeway on the shores of Macau’s Inner Harbour. It’s another Portuguese-commissioned edifice. This one symbolizes a desire for harmonious relations between Portugal and China, that is, between West and East.

Much like the Arco Oriente, two decades on the monument is rather neglected. It's in an increasingly dangerous state of disrepair and has been cordoned off from the public. There’s clearly a theme emerging here. That is, in an increasingly nationalistic era, structures invoking the dying days of colonial rule are clearly much maligned. I guess I was lucky to see them in their prime.


After walking for more than 7kms I decided I’d done enough sightseeing for one day and caught a taxi back to the ferry terminal. However, my return ferry wasn’t scheduled to leave for another 90 minutes. On a whim, I decided to treat myself and booked a helicopter flight back to Hong Kong. Earlier in the day I’d noticed a heliport next door to the terminal, and a second heliport next to the ferry terminal in Hong Kong. The flight took less than 15 minutes. Sadly the view was limited thanks to lingering smog haze. An occasional ship would suddenly appear out of the haze below and then vanish just as quickly.


I've finished this post with an image above showing a high-speed ferry sailing past the Amizade Bridge. This four-lane bridge links the Macau Peninsula with Taipa Island, one of two main islands that, along with the peninsula, make up the Macau Special Administrative Region. It opened in 1995 and was the second crossing to link Taipa Island with the mainland. The ferry passes under it en route to and from Hong Kong.


Friday, August 11, 2023

Foodie week


Garry and I have been traveling to Melbourne at the end of July (or early August) on business for the last eight years. Every year our company exhibits at the annual Reed Gift Fair held in the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre on Southbank. It's our biggest trade show of the year.

It's always an intense week that kicks off with an early morning flight to Melbourne followed by two hectic days of setting up our trade show booth. We then spend five days exhibiting at the show itself. The final day then concludes with a five-hour flurry of activity as we break down the stand and pack it away for another year.


In between all of the business activities, Garry and I always try to find time to indulge our foodie interests while we're in town.  Over the years we've dined at some of Melbourne's top restaurants and enjoyed some memorable meals. This year was no exception.

We kicked off our foodie week with a reunion dinner at Rockpool. A good friend, Jon, was in town from Vancouver. He was speaking at a conference so we made the most of being in the same town at the same time.  Later in the week, we dined at Nobu for the first time since our memorable evening in Hong Kong in 2009. We also had dinner with our staff at Meat & Wine Co, as well as enjoying a Thai meal we traditionally have at Bang Pop on our final night in town.


However, this year's main event was an evening at Embla, a tiny "hole in the wall" wine bar on the edge of the central city.  It had been recommended to us by friends. We also received plenty of positive feedback from other locals whenever we dropped the name in conversation on the trade show floor.

Embla proved to be a real find. The restaurant gave us a table in the back corner. This offered plenty of cozy ambiance while giving us a view of the entire room, including its tiny kitchen containing a spectacular flame-fed grilling oven. The menu was limited but every dish we tried was a genuine taste sensation. We ultimately decided that the vongole with pork sausage was the evening's stand-out dish.

It just goes to show that sometimes the big culinary names aren't the only foodie game in town. We'll definitely be back to try Embla again.


Thursday, July 27, 2023

Chasing Status Points

Garry and I have just spent a glorious weekend on the South Coast. Regular readers will recall that pre-COVID we regularly attended the Narooma Oyster Festival in May each year. We'd normally base ourselves at a friend’s house in Central Tilba. However, thanks to the pandemic it’s been four years since our last visit.

Sadly, our extended group missed this year’s oyster festival. As a result, after a little diary shuffling, we all agreed to meet up for an extended break in Tilba last weekend. Getting there is normally a 5.5 hour drive from Sydney. However, this year we tried something new. Garry is currently chasing the status points required to renew his Qantas Platinum Frequent Flyer status. He needs just 15 more to secure it for another year.


After crunching some numbers, we decided to skip the drive to Tilba and flew with Qantas to Merimbula, which is located about 60 minutes south of Tilba. This 1:15-hour flight gave Garry a total of 20 points thus securing another year of Platinum privileges. We also had the perfect solution in place for our ground transport needs.

Rob and Jen, two Sydney friends who’ve always joined us for the oyster festival recently relocated to Tura Beach on the outskirts of Merimbula. As a result, shortly after lunch on Friday, they collected us from the airport and drove us directly to Tilba. The hour-long road trip gave everyone plenty of time to catch up on post-pandemic events and renew our friendship.

Our group of six then enjoyed a superb weekend filled with sunshine, great wine, and plenty of laughter. Garry and I managed the entertainment on Friday. We took advantage of our frequent flyer status and literally filled a suitcase with wine and goodies for an enormous charcuterie board heaving with meats, cheeses, and anti-pasta nibbles. 


Saturday dawned warm and sunny. We spent the afternoon walking the Bellbrook Loop Track, a 2km circuit that takes you around a bush-clad valley out the back of Tilba. Our hosts Liz and Eric then surprised us with a mini picnic at a hilltop table halfway around the track.

Saturday night saw us feasting at Queen Chow in Narooma. We’ve previously dined at this restaurant’s main inner Sydney venue. I’m pleased to report that its South Coast outpost is just as good.


After a leisurely start to the day, Sunday afternoon was spent enjoying more wine and dozens of freshly shucked oysters at The Oyster Farmers Daughter. This tiny outdoor venue sits on the shores of Barlows Bay, inland from Narooma. The food was excellent, and the venue’s serene aquatic landscape was good for the soul. Afterward, we ventured out to the headlands to watch the town’s seal colony frolic and loll around in the sun.


We then returned to Tura Beach with Rob and Jen to spend a night at their new beachside home. On Monday morning, Jen took us for a tour of the local coast before heading for the airport. We walked along the headlands at the picturesque Short Point Beach, stopped at Bar Beach, and finally walked along the coast to the mouth of the Pambula River. Without a doubt, the morning’s highlight was watching a large pod of dolphins surfing and playing along the shore at Short Point Beach.


Shortly before 2pm, we boarded our flight back to Sydney and we were back in the office by 3:45pm. Garry and I both agree that, despite a one-hour delay on the way down, the flights to and from Merimbula were a great way to travel. Merimbula Airport is also newly upgraded and is an easy-to-access facility. In fact, much of the town’s infrastructure looked surprisingly new and well-maintained. There’s clearly been a lot of investment in the area over recent years.

Unfortunately, the trip offered up one final surprise. On Monday evening a dose of diarrhea kicked in and duly kept me entertained for the next 24 hours. I suspect a slightly dodgy oyster may have been behind my bathroom antics. While inconvenient, there is a silver lining. I've been on a diet for the last couple of months so a little diarrhea has helped keep off any weight I've regained during such an indulgent weekend.